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 11 
 on: Today at 11:23:32 AM 
Started by WBear2GCR - Last post by KB2WIG


C


Wine is fine. Lead with it, befote the ham shack exposure.



Its the right thing to do.


KLC

 12 
 on: Today at 11:18:15 AM 
Started by KC3GMQ - Last post by N1BCG
A fuse would make a great addition to the circuit.

I agree about low voltage control relays. You can reuse the 117V relay to a) power the HV power supply, and b) activate the oscillator, but you'll certainly want to add a low voltage relay to control this relay.

The more direct way requires purchasing a low voltage DPST relay and using the heater voltage to operate it. That relay would replace the toasted relay except for the Russian roulette connection to the non-polarized line cord.

 13 
 on: Today at 11:10:27 AM 
Started by Todd, KA1KAQ - Last post by W3GMS
It's a simple pull switch, you know, like the kind in your basement with a chain!
It's just terminated with that neat little button handle. A pull straight up should work too.

True, but I'm looking for a replacement switch with the bakelite bat handle on it and trying to identify the type or manufacturer. The little loop inside that the bat hooks to is actually hot, so when you pull it up you need something to keep it away from the metal sides of the body or *ZAP* - out go the lights. Already went that route.  Wink

It looks like the switch is built into the socket housing. Guess I need to pull it apart and perhaps then a manufacturer or other info will become apparent. All the searching I've done has come to nothing. Very old, cool lights on mechanical arms, will be perfect in the station.

Todd, 
Looks like a very tough find. 

I know its not the same, but I think it would look pretty good is one of the twist type light switches.  The twist part is about the same size as the toggle handle but you would simply twist it to turn the light either on or off.  The body of those type of switches are pretty small so hopefully there is room inside for it.  The twist part is typically black or brown in color.  Other than that, if all you need is the toggle handle part, maybe a machinist with a lath could custom make you a part.

Joe-GMS

 14 
 on: Today at 11:09:18 AM 
Started by WBear2GCR - Last post by N1BCG
It's got a lot of info on the infamous "numbers" and "letters" and repeating word signals.

It doesn't take a fraction of that...  I could bring a date home and show her the ham shack. While she's figuring out whether to scream or run, I tell her I repeat the infamous word signal "N1BCG" on the air every 10 minutes and that gets others to say their codes.

I'm sure I'd hear something like "Who the hell are you?"

Not exactly the groundwork for an enjoyable evening...

 15 
 on: Today at 09:56:17 AM 
Started by k7mdo - Last post by k7mdo
Mike the thing is three feet wide and my radio room is only eight feet....  nice panel you have built there!  Wish I hadn't let my 390a go.... it, too, was crowding the room though.

Currently my problems center on too many projects and too much stuff.

Partial list:

National NC-303 (first on last off receiver)
NC-300 (2 currently)
Hallicrafters SX-111
Hallicrafters SX-111 mark1
Drake 4a
Drake 2b
Johnson Viking II CD (plus two for spare parts)
Hallicrafters HT-37 (2 on hand)
Icom 2 meter IC-22
Icom 7600

All functional and used in some capacity.... plus all the parts and test equipment necessary to keep these critters running.

Now you know why the wife "helped" me move out to the barn!

 16 
 on: Today at 09:29:49 AM 
Started by WBear2GCR - Last post by kb4qaa
OK, so it's on RAF base at Akrotiri.

The BBC has their World Service "Limassol" relay transmitter actually located on RAF Akrotiri.   Likely this is the BBC antenna.

 17 
 on: Today at 09:17:12 AM 
Started by k7mdo - Last post by WA1LGQ
If you can find a big enough tube audio output transformer or maybe a power/filament transformer you can pair it up with a choke and cap and modulate a 100 watt TX directly. I have never tried the power transformer thing, but have heard that it works. There might be a thread here on that. I use a big old Olsen audio transformer and pa amp on my Viking 1. It works very well.
Larry

 18 
 on: Today at 09:15:05 AM 
Started by Todd, KA1KAQ - Last post by Todd, KA1KAQ
It's a simple pull switch, you know, like the kind in your basement with a chain!
It's just terminated with that neat little button handle. A pull straight up should work too.

True, but I'm looking for a replacement switch with the bakelite bat handle on it and trying to identify the type or manufacturer. The little loop inside that the bat hooks to is actually hot, so when you pull it up you need something to keep it away from the metal sides of the body or *ZAP* - out go the lights. Already went that route.  Wink

It looks like the switch is built into the socket housing. Guess I need to pull it apart and perhaps then a manufacturer or other info will become apparent. All the searching I've done has come to nothing. Very old, cool lights on mechanical arms, will be perfect in the station.

 19 
 on: Today at 08:27:14 AM 
Started by WBear2GCR - Last post by WA2SQQ
Some cryptic notice that the page belongs to KCOM
Looks very strange to me

 20 
 on: Today at 06:43:20 AM 
Started by KC3GMQ - Last post by KC3GMQ
If I haven't said it in a while, thanks you all for the help. Wig, what size fuses do you suggest? Fast or slow blow?  Did you mount them on an open chassis fuse holder, or the enclosed type. I am going to get it fused, and 3 prong plug installed next. I do not want to be chasing down transformers or anything else bad happening. I want to do this thing once, and do it correctly.

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