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Author Topic: ART-13 PROBLEMS  (Read 17803 times)
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W9BHI
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« Reply #25 on: March 12, 2013, 10:36:05 AM »

Joe,
I don't have mine connected to an antenna or a receiver yet.
I am waiting for a 500Pf variable cap to adjust the loading.
There is an article on line "rebuilding the ART-13" states that the Meanwell supply is RF free but he says that the power cable from the supply to the unit should be "fully sheilded".
I guess I will find out soon enough.
Don W9BHI
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W3GMS
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« Reply #26 on: March 12, 2013, 02:08:37 PM »

Thanks Don for the reply.  Many of the switchers today are pretty quiet, so unless your using an indoor antenna you will probably be fine.  If you do have a problem, some of the Corcom 2 stage line filters when installed as close as possible to the AC input of the switcher will help.  In fact, if I had some extra time on my hands I could design a multi-output switching supply to supply all the voltages for the ART-13.  The entire supply would probably be less than 5 lbs. 

When you get it up and running with a receiver, it would be helpful to know if you hear any noise on the various bands coming from the switcher. 

Joe, GMS       
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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #27 on: March 12, 2013, 06:08:07 PM »

Quote
Good luck with the PS from china.
I bought from a chinese dealer ONCE on Ebay, never again.
If there is something wrong with it or never receive it, you are screwed.
The agravation is not worth trying to save a few bucks.
My .05 (inflated)

MeanWell isn't a PRC manufacturer, since when?   I've been buying PRC stuff off E-bay for a number of years with only one incident, of some wrong components being sent.   A message to the vendor, and the problem was remedied free of charge.    I'm certainly not saying DOA isn't a possibility, but its rare.   E-bay buyer protection takes care of the occasional no ship and/or bait and switch artist.   Frankly, I've had more problems with domestic suppliers.   BTW, called your vendor, no stock till mid may.

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Mike KE0ZU

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AJ1G
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« Reply #28 on: March 12, 2013, 07:44:18 PM »

I'm running a DY-17A dynamotor to power my ART-13 sets (I have 2 ART-13's) and my latest find an ATC set. I'm using a military power supply as PP-1104 which I'm told was originally designed to charge forklift batteries. I call this supply "AMPSZILLA", it can be configured for 14 volts at 100 amps or 28 volts at 50 amps. Even with this supply the voltage really sags on start up of the dynamotor.

For many years I have had a 28V DC "bus" set up in the shack to run the various radios that run at that voltage - the ART-13, the command sets, and the GRC-19.   The basic circuit consists of a pair of marine deep cycle batteries seriesed up,  and floated on the output of a high current DC supply.  I'm presently using a military 80s vintage PP7333 that's rated at 60A DC continuous. 

With a full charge on the battery "flywheel", the dyno starting current surges are taken out of the them vs the supply to overcome the transient PS sag.  On the PP7333, if the battery charge is low, it's output breaker will usually trip on keying up the ART-13 on voice, or otherwise starting the DY-17A for spotting or continuous run in CW.  A fully charged healthy set of batteries eliminates the trips. I recently had one of the pair of the latest batteries I have used, a fairly new Walmart/Johnson Controls marine deep cycle battery develop a "soft short" on one cell which limited the battery output voltage to the point where the PP7333 output breaker tripped, and the K104  relay would chatter on dyno start up. 

I didn't have the original receipt for the batery, and was not certain how much prorated refund I was going to get on it.  Brought it to the local WM where I bought it.  the service sesk guy said he would try to see if thre was a way to determine the build date from the battery bar code or serial number.  I was honest with him and told him it was definitely over a year, and therefore was not going to qualify for a full refund.  He could not find out anything, but regardless, gave me a full price refund anyway, I just had to pay the replacement battery sales tax and to price differential for the new battery vs the old.  Got out of there with a fresh battery for less than 20 bucks!   WM/Johnson Controls batteries recently got pretty decent reviews in a Consumers Report battery survey.  Based on my experience, I'm going to stick with them when its time to refresh any vehicle and or radio bus batteries.

I have also noticed that I need a full charge on the batteries to keep the DC  supply  voltage high enough for the T195 auto tune circuit to retain its "memory" and cycle in a reasonable amount of time. 

I also have a real big single WM MAXX marine deep cycle battery to run a 14V bus for the various radios that run on that voltage - TCS, WS19, and GRC-9 (and also various modern radios that run on 13.8V DC) I have been using a pair of now really old Sears 10A chargers ( with added ripple filtration caps) to float it.  I should have a bigger charger to keep up with the BC-191/BD-88.  I do have a nice "AMPZILLA"  50A supply I bought from Jim W2BVM a few years ago, that could be adjusted for any voltage  up to over 28 VDC, but its OOC at the moment.  The MAXX deep cycle will run the GRC-9 DY88  quite a long time on its own in the field, especially of I turn the transmitter dyno off in receive mode, and the receiver is powered by the DY88 vibrator pack.
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Chris, AJ1G
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« Reply #29 on: March 12, 2013, 07:48:13 PM »

Joe,
I don't have mine connected to an antenna or a receiver yet.
I am waiting for a 500Pf variable cap to adjust the loading.
Don W9BHI

You should be able to load up pretty well into a typical 50 ohm unbalanced coax fed antenna without the 500 pf variable, it will make the fine tuning and loading easier but its not absolutely essential.  Ran my ART-13 for years without it.
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Chris, AJ1G
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« Reply #30 on: April 01, 2013, 07:26:21 AM »

Here are some pictures of the power supply.
It is only 12X8X3.

Don W9BHI



Don,
Thanks for posting your schematic. 

I believe you said in one of the many post that you would go for the next higher voltage for the intermediate voltage.  Is the part number of that transformer AS-2T350?  Also what is written on the parts list top line(s) in the upper right corner?  It seems to be clipped off from your scan.

I like your inrush limiting on the primaries.  The last we spoke, you had not checked for EMI from the switcher.  When used in your actual station, did you notice and radiated EMI as detected by your receiver? 

Joe, GMS
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W9BHI
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« Reply #31 on: April 01, 2013, 09:21:08 AM »

Here is a partial parts list for the PS.
This should get you started.

These parts are from Mouser:
1N5408 diodes   # 512-1N5408  $0.25 ea.
Inrush lim.         # 527-CL40  #1.39 ea.
Toggle switch     #  691-2GK50-73  $6.82 ea.
56K 5W resistor  #286-56K-RC   $0.56 ea.
100 ohm 2 W resistor #594-5083NW100R0J $0.10 ea.
11 pos. term strip  #538-38780-0110  $7.23ea.
24 volt DPDT relay #563-LY2F-DC24  $6.31ea.
12x8x3 chassis  #546-1444-24 $24.00ea.

The 390Mf/450v caps are from K4POZ on QTH and they were $2.75 ea.

The Cannon U7 power plug is available from KE9PQ for $59.99ea.(OUCH!)
The HV connector is a Millen type available from KE9PQ for $23.99 a set.

The toroid transformers were from ANTEK inc.
#AS-4T500 $57.00ea.
#AS2T-300 $38.00ea.
They are out of stock on everything right now becaucse of a fire at their facility in January and will be back in business in a few weeks.

The 28 volt Mean Well switching supply is from Powergate LLC.
#SE-350-27  $45.90ea.

I did notice a very slight amount of RF interference from the switcher in the receiver but it was bareley noticable.
Sheilding the power leads may get rid of it completely but I didn't bother.

I hope this helps others to get motivated and get that ART-13
that has been sitting in the corner gathering dust on the air again.
If I can be of any assistance, just ask.

Don W9BHI

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w1vtp
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« Reply #32 on: April 01, 2013, 01:04:54 PM »

Chris

I think that's great that customer service at Wally World bent over backwards to help you out.  I think these outfits should get credit when credit is due.  Good save!

My ART13 is sitting on the work bench here waiting for a 28 volt supply.  I'm planning on putting it and the LV / HV supplies on modified furnature dollys so I can move them around easily.  Gotta  make them Rosie-proof - what a nosey kitty - like a 2 year old.

Al
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« Reply #33 on: April 01, 2013, 07:40:48 PM »

Here is a partial parts list for the PS.
This should get you started.

These parts are from Mouser:
1N5408 diodes   # 512-1N5408  $0.25 ea.
Inrush lim.         # 527-CL40  #1.39 ea.
Toggle switch     #  691-2GK50-73  $6.82 ea.
56K 5W resistor  #286-56K-RC   $0.56 ea.
100 ohm 2 W resistor #594-5083NW100R0J $0.10 ea.
11 pos. term strip  #538-38780-0110  $7.23ea.
24 volt DPDT relay #563-LY2F-DC24  $6.31ea.
12x8x3 chassis  #546-1444-24 $24.00ea.

The 390Mf/450v caps are from K4POZ on QTH and they were $2.75 ea.

The Cannon U7 power plug is available from KE9PQ for $59.99ea.(OUCH!)
The HV connector is a Millen type available from KE9PQ for $23.99 a set.

The toroid transformers were from ANTEK inc.
#AS-4T500 $57.00ea.
#AS2T-300 $38.00ea.
They are out of stock on everything right now becaucse of a fire at their facility in January and will be back in business in a few weeks.

The 28 volt Mean Well switching supply is from Powergate LLC.
#SE-350-27  $45.90ea.

I did notice a very slight amount of RF interference from the switcher in the receiver but it was bareley noticable.
Sheilding the power leads may get rid of it completely but I didn't bother.

I hope this helps others to get motivated and get that ART-13
that has been sitting in the corner gathering dust on the air again.
If I can be of any assistance, just ask.

Don W9BHI



Thanks Don for taking the time to document your completed project.  Reading early in the trail, I guess the only change you recommend is to use the 350V transformer rather than the 300V one. 

What bands did you check for EMI from the switcher? 

Joe, GMS
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W9BHI
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« Reply #34 on: April 01, 2013, 09:11:50 PM »

I noticed a small amount on 75 meters and a little bit stronger on 40 meters.
I think a little bit of sheilding of the 28 volt cabling would help.
My connection from the receiver to the ART-13 and antenna connections had a lot of exposed wire
and was probably picking up the interference.

The 300vac transformer gave 380vdc under load, it worked ok for me.
Others say that a little over 400 is better on the screen of the 813.
Thanks,
Don W9BHI
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« Reply #35 on: April 01, 2013, 11:08:30 PM »

I noticed a small amount on 75 meters and a little bit stronger on 40 meters.
I think a little bit of sheilding of the 28 volt cabling would help.
My connection from the receiver to the ART-13 and antenna connections had a lot of exposed wire
and was probably picking up the interference.

The 300vac transformer gave 380vdc under load, it worked ok for me.
Others say that a little over 400 is better on the screen of the 813.
Thanks,
Don W9BHI

Since the AC input in the supply has an EMI filter already, I would probably start with with some common mode chokes on the output leads very close to the supply if the shielded cable did not solve it.  Then again, some of the new active PFC circuits on the front end of the newer supplies can generate some hash.  A sniffer probe that is very numb helps in locating which lines most of the EMI is on. 
I guess when I build mine, I will find out! 

Thanks Don,
Joe-GMS
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