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Author Topic: Johnson Viking II sending carrier with plate off  (Read 89547 times)
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #125 on: March 27, 2017, 09:27:09 PM »

Also, You can tell the hole was drilled after the fact.  The slot for tang on the coil to sit in for it to hold the coil in position, you can see it was made by drilling two holes side by side,  factory?  I dont know
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N1BCG
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« Reply #126 on: March 27, 2017, 09:36:29 PM »

Kevin WIG posted the Johnson PTT schematic several pages back. You should check that the wires going to the relay contacts all go to SW2 to be sure that is what this relay is *supposed to* do.

If it is, the relay will merely parallel the switch so turning on the Plate would operate the transmitter normally. Is there a chance that the only thing wrong right now is that the plate tuning and loading are way off resulting in high plate current?

Perhaps switching back to CW and using a key to transmit will allow things to get tuned up as they were before. Once that's working as expected, we can revisit the Phone mode.
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N1BCG
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« Reply #127 on: March 27, 2017, 09:39:20 PM »

Incidentally, this would be a FB++ time for real Viking II ops to chime in. I'm a Valiant owner pretending to have a clue...
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #128 on: March 27, 2017, 09:49:50 PM »

Ok first off, the drawing WIG posted  on the PTT,  My rig does not have it.  I have the coil, but the PTT set up to the mic I do not have.  I tried to load the finals in CW,  It let me do the preliminary set up, but will not turn on the plate, I noticed before, when I turned on the plate, that coil pulled into the contacts..  Im pretty sure that coil has to be replaced.
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N1BCG
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« Reply #129 on: March 27, 2017, 09:50:15 PM »

So I need to order another coil?  Will that old one have numbers?

The original was a Potter & Brumfield LM-11 DPDT with a 10k Ohm coil, however, other DPDT relays could be substituted depending on the supply source voltage. I'm not thrilled about 100 volts of PTT voltage running through the mic cord but it was all the rage in the 50s just as was operating AC/DC radios from the bathtub.
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #130 on: March 27, 2017, 09:51:56 PM »

This guy on you tube says his PTT system is teh best

https://youtu.be/Vr4DiyxjiPo
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #131 on: March 27, 2017, 11:17:11 PM »

The Coil is Tyco KR11A 115vac
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N1BCG
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« Reply #132 on: March 27, 2017, 11:26:01 PM »

The Coil is Tyco KR11A 115vac

Alright then. The lead coming from the line cord will go to one of the coil terminals. The other coil terminal will (does) go to the Plate switch. The other side of the switch should go to the other line cord lead. **** one of these should be on the fused and switched side of the line cord.
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #133 on: March 28, 2017, 12:36:09 AM »

I'd suggest adding a fuse after SW1, going to the low voltage transformer and adding another fuse for the HV transformer. The single fuse , F1 doesn't seem to protect a crap out if there is a " low current short" bubblin away.

You might as well add a 3 prong plug and switch the hot side. Do it for safety. Do it for the children.

The rest of the guys/gals disappointed me. I ended up dragging my VK2 out and putting it on the bench. With out the shielding. I loaded her up and turned off the HV.

I was able to receive the osc signal on a Toshiba portable at a distance of 15 feet. I figured that distance was enough. While this doesn't directly address the problem with Dave's VK2, it may be helpful to others.

KLC


* VK2 for AMfone PTT on D10-4.jpg (2056.38 KB, 2988x5312 - viewed 360 times.)

* Doesn't like the Bird.jpg (4150.59 KB, 2988x5312 - viewed 328 times.)
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« Reply #134 on: March 28, 2017, 12:43:49 AM »

The Coil is Tyco KR11A 115vac

That has to be one dangerous mucked-up relay system there.

I still like mine better. Use a low voltage relay to control the Main 110V DC relay.

I never liked 110V or more going through a mike cord.


Phil AC0OB

* Viking II - CDC Control Relay.pdf (24.03 KB - downloaded 181 times.)
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #135 on: March 28, 2017, 06:43:20 AM »

If I haven't said it in a while, thanks you all for the help. Wig, what size fuses do you suggest? Fast or slow blow?  Did you mount them on an open chassis fuse holder, or the enclosed type. I am going to get it fused, and 3 prong plug installed next. I do not want to be chasing down transformers or anything else bad happening. I want to do this thing once, and do it correctly.
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N1BCG
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« Reply #136 on: March 28, 2017, 11:18:15 AM »

A fuse would make a great addition to the circuit.

I agree about low voltage control relays. You can reuse the 117V relay to a) power the HV power supply, and b) activate the oscillator, but you'll certainly want to add a low voltage relay to control this relay.

The more direct way requires purchasing a low voltage DPST relay and using the heater voltage to operate it. That relay would replace the toasted relay except for the Russian roulette connection to the non-polarized line cord.
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #137 on: March 28, 2017, 11:52:26 AM »

So I will get this fused, and new grounded cord today. So what about adding a low voltage transformer like 117/6 and using a low voltage relay to do the work?
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N1BCG
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« Reply #138 on: March 28, 2017, 12:59:15 PM »

You can use the existing 6 VAC from the heater circuit. You'll need to add a diode and capacitor to get D.C. then run a lead to the mic connector.
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #139 on: March 28, 2017, 01:48:08 PM »



D,

After you get things going, and get ON THE AIR, Electric Radio Magazine has several discussions on the JV2. Back issues should be available.

You may also wish to search here on the fone.

Check this out, its for the Ranger, but should be helpful.

http://www.crompton.com/hamradio/JohnsonRanger/RangerRestoration.html


klc
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #140 on: March 28, 2017, 09:24:15 PM »

Well just an update,  Replaced mic connector to 4 pin, ordering caps, ordering new Plate switch, and replacing line cord Smiley
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N1BCG
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« Reply #141 on: March 29, 2017, 12:30:09 PM »

To clarify my suggestion, since you need to replace the toasted 117V DPST relay, you could reallocate the other one you're removing or obtain a relay with a low voltage coil.

The former would require a disconnect from the heater supply (readers are probably thinking HUH?!?... long story) and only be powered from the fused AC circuit. A separate LV relay would be needed for PTT.

The latter where a new relay is used would require a disconnect from the line voltage supply and some basic AC to DC conversion of the heater supply. A direct connection can be made to the Mic jack for closure to ground for PTT.
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #142 on: March 29, 2017, 12:36:14 PM »

So,  no you will think I am nutz lol.  I was watching a youtube video and he  showed the wiring real well for the plate switch.  For now, I took out that relay, I took out the other one too .  I have put in a new coax, changed line cord to grounded 3 prong, (hot on the fused line), but now I need a new plate switch.  I cannot believe I cant find a DPDT switch with 4 terminals instead of 6. I may pull one out of my DX-100 just to get this working. So all I need for a test run is the switch.
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K1JJ
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« Reply #143 on: March 29, 2017, 12:38:26 PM »

Oh, Johnson and their practice of using 110 VAC for their antenna and other keying relays. As an innocent (and ignorant)  JN, how many times I've had catastrophic black soot on the back of my Johnson gear as a result... :-)

T
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N1BCG
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« Reply #144 on: March 29, 2017, 12:40:43 PM »

That returns the Viking to the original schematic wiring. You only need a DPST switch but a DPDT switch is fine also (the relay was a DPDT and two contacts went unused).

The downside is that PTT won't be possible and you'll need to manually throw the switch for xmit.
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N1BCG
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« Reply #145 on: March 29, 2017, 12:44:50 PM »

Oh, Johnson and their practice of using 110 VAC for their antenna and other keying relays

And "crystal sockets" for connecting the 117vac antenna relays...


* IMG_2653.JPG (1857.44 KB, 4032x3024 - viewed 291 times.)
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #146 on: March 29, 2017, 12:46:15 PM »

It shows two sets,  the orange stripped wires go on two,  and the black and the orange go on the other two.... or is there something else i have to figure out hi hi
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N1BCG
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« Reply #147 on: March 29, 2017, 01:03:03 PM »

No, that's it. The switch just has to complete two circuits: 1) grounding the cathode of the oscillator, and 2) powering the HV supply. Each of those pairs would go to the contacts that are "off" when the switch is down. When switched "on", those pairs should separately be connected.
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KC3GMQ
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« Reply #148 on: March 29, 2017, 01:09:17 PM »

Ok so I do need the right switch?
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N1BCG
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« Reply #149 on: March 29, 2017, 01:15:39 PM »

That depends visually on aesthetics and electrically you need either a DPST (4 terms) or a DPDT (6 terms)
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