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Author Topic: Viking 2  (Read 4802 times)
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KE7KPB
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« on: January 06, 2014, 11:05:09 PM »

I was running my viking 2 and then the person on the other end of the string said my audio sounded like I was talking out of a trash can and it was garbled. This was a kit rig so I was wondering if a loose screw and bolt might do this. Please, I now I have a screw loose so beat yea to it.
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2014, 11:19:32 PM »

Bad or weak tube(s), defective component(s), too much drive, not enough drive, mike problems. Did it ever work correctly? Sounds like you need to trouble shoot. Screws might be the least of your problem, but it might be worth checking.
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Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
KE7KPB
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« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2014, 06:35:04 PM »

Ok it seams I need to dear down again. I did a total recap and replaced all of the bad resistors. What I need to do is remove all of the covers and geter done.
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K9PNP
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« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2014, 06:59:19 PM »

Before you take it down, I would check your mike.  Had a bad, as in old and improperly stored, element in my D-104 cause a similar issue a few years ago.  Of course, the stock V2 audio system is not the best but should sound better than that.  Ended up modifying the 2 6AU6 stages on mine.
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73,  Mitch

Since 1958. There still is nothing like tubes to keep your coffee warm in the shack.

Vulcan Theory of Troubleshooting:  Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
WD8BIL
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2014, 02:15:09 PM »

One report?? Maybe..... maybe not.
Did you listen to yourself?? Every AMer should have a way of monitoring his signal.

One the VK1/2, particularly kit builds, suspect solder joint problems. I've seen many with an exceptionally high number in the modulator section.
Garbage can audio can indicate one 807 isn't pulling his own weight.
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KE7KPB
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« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2014, 06:23:23 PM »

The help has brought some interesting ideas. I did replace the mike element in the d-104. The original went bad. Maybe you guys can recommend a great sounding mike for it. I do need to take the covers off  and do some serious cleaning in the inside and check all of the screws. At that time I will recheck the 807s. I do a 4 nos RCAs. On the funny side, I was talking to a very nice gentleman in Idaho and after I signed of a person came back on a complained to me about our bad signal. He could not really tune us in and he also said we were on the wrong channel? Ok I did know how to reply to that comment. I just figured he was new and did not know what a VFO was or AM.
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w8fax
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« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2014, 12:56:39 PM »

Channel?Huh There's a clue right there......
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2014, 01:15:56 PM »

"  I signed of a person came back on a complained to me about our bad signal."

I think the proper protocall is to thank him/her,  and wish him/her 'good numbers'.

klc
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W1AEX
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« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2014, 05:22:43 PM »

I'd be curious about what the resting current of the 807 modulators is. If they are at cut-off or close to cut-off the audio would get very messy (garbled). With the meter set to monitor modulator current you should see around 80ma of resting current. If not, with the transmitter powered down, adjust the slider on the big power resistor (R-13) to get it at around 80ma when you are transmitting.

Rob W1AEX
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KE7KPB
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« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2014, 05:38:52 PM »

I did replace that resistor because it went open. I need to align the radio.  Cry
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