Antenna rope = 1 Lawn tractor = 0

[KA2DZT]

You can't plug a 120 cord into a 240 outlet.  I'm thinking the event happened at normal speed of the mower which is no were near that fast.  Then the video was sped up.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Well Al, misery loves company as they say. Posted these shots a couple years back after mowing a feedline, but reminders are always good. Especially today as I was out with a much larger tractor trying to catch up on mowing between rain storms. The mowed coax was done with a little John Deere 112. Using a Farmall Super A now with the ability to yank, rip, and wrap up coax from the ground, trees, or where ever it happens to be.

Was amazed at how much the clover had covered and grabbed the 40m feedline. Took me ten minutes to get it freed up to move. Was tempted to leave it in place but that would've insured another chopped up line.

[KA2DZT]

Todd,

Very nice, keep up the good work.

I run my coaxes overhead, tied to a steel wire.  Haven't cut any of them,  but the day is not over yet.

Fred

[W2PFY]

Or maybe a faulty ignition switch that is intermittent?

I just think that when working on movers that use a magneto that requires no electricity from a battery that it's better to be safe than sorry. Anyway, this is what I have been taught and so far, I have most of my limbs 

[w1vtp]

You guys have cheered me up.  I'm in good company, so it seems.  I'd have another go at cutting out the rope - guys, trust me - that is really tuff stuff!  I had a fresh Xacto blade in my handle and it still was hard work.  I have another larger handle / blade I might try but first I need to get rid of the aches from laying down on the driveway and getting up.

We'll see, if the shop gets it first, I may have them fix the really dull blades while I'm at it so it won't be a complete bust

Al

[K3ZS]

It might come off if you have the blades removed for sharpening.  Had a similar problem when a wire-based door mat got sucked into my snowblower.   Had to take it apart to disentangle it, it wrapped itself around the blades real tight.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

I run my coaxes overhead, tied to a steel wire.  Haven't cut any of them,  but the day is not over yet.

That's the way to go, Fred - either messenger cable or buried. The 80m is buried since it's hung where it will stay. The 40 & 15m dipoles are still 'temporary'. The 40m, for 3 years now. Something has to give because they really screw with my mowing pattern along with wasted time moving them around.

[Steve - K4HX]

Buried is better from an RF standpoint and probably aesthetically too. But whatever keeps them out of the blades is FB. I've just ceased mowing my grass.

[w1vtp]

It might come off if you have the blades removed for sharpening.  Had a similar problem when a wire-based door mat got sucked into my snowblower.   Had to take it apart to disentangle it, it wrapped itself around the blades real tight.

Steve QIX graciously stopped by on the way home this afternoon and made a lot of progress.  In fact, the left rotor was completely freed. But alas, we both concluded that the rope has fused with the right hand rotor bearing and shaft.  I had arranged for the shop to pick it up tomorrow previously and will follow through.  If we have correctly diagnosed the problem the likely solution will be to replace the assembly.

Thanks for all of your interest

Al

[KB2WIG]

"Thanks for all of your interest"


I think its a bit of Schadenfreude.

MY wife ********************** the riding mower. Then********************
*********************************This post may self destruct shortly.



klc

[w1vtp]

Maybe we should change the title of this thread to "The Perils of Springtime Maintenance."  The tractor is off to the tractor hospital (fingers crossed)

[KB2WIG]

Get a goat fer the lawn...... or better yet, sheep.


klc

[KA2DZT]

Maybe we should change the title of this thread to "The Perils of Springtime Maintenance."  The tractor is off to the tractor hospital (fingers crossed)

Al, at least you still have fingers to cross.

Fred

[WA2OLZ]

Get a goat fer the lawn...... or better yet, sheep.


klc

Whatever turns you on 

[Opcom]

Yep, that's my vote too.  That torch will melt away your blues and save a trip to the repair shop.  Once melted, the rope will peal off easily using a large set of dykes.

T

I'd worry about setting fire to any lubricating grease .....

Hmmm.... usually large dykes and lubricating grease get along quite well.

---------

googling that suggestion didn't turn up the expected document.

[KM1H]

Im always mowing over long forgotten wire and ropes here, did it again a few days ago as Im regularly extending the mowed area a bit further each season and making paths.

The simple procedure is to drive the mower up onto vehicle ramps and then it is easy to work underneath. A sharp knife, a good set of dikes, a strong needle nose pliers, a 9/16" socket and 1/2" drive ratchet are all it takes for anything from rope to copperweld #14 stranded. Taking it to the shop isnt in my vocabularly

Carl

[WQ9E]

The simple procedure is to drive the mower up onto vehicle ramps and then it is easy to work underneath.

 Taking it to the shop isnt in my vocabularly

Carl

Exactly!  A set of ramps and an impact wrench make very fast work of blade removal. 

I put on a new set of blades on my Deere 72" deck Sunday and the entire process including hitting all of the under chassis lube points on the tractor took less than 15 minutes. 

The only thing I have wrapped around the blades (so far) is a small length of rope and it was of the manilla variety so no melting issues.  I imagine the plastic stuff is messy although it will probably chip off.  On the Deere deck there are shields between the blade and spindle bearing assembly which does a good job of keeping stuff like that away.

Several years ago I did find some partially buried wire fence material while tilling a new garden area and that took about 30 minutes to remove from the tiller.  That is the only time the slip clutch on the tiller has slipped which I guess makes the springtime ritual of loosening the clutch springs, slipping the clutch, and then resetting the springs worthwhile since it saves damage to the tractor driveline.  This painful process was probably easy before all of the required safety shields were added to the design.  I also found some abandoned barbed wire the first time I used the rear mount "rough cut" deck and removing that took some careful work to avoid damage to me

[w1vtp]

Rodger and Carl:

A careful reading of my last post will reveal that the Dacron / Nylon rope had fused itself onto the shaft / bearing thus seizing things up.  There was simply no amount of cutting (or blow torching) that could have affected a remedy.  

Ramps?  I have a jack that allows me to raise the tractor nose up such that I have easy access to the bottom of the mowing deck.  I use this (along with a jackstand as a safety measure) to remove the blades for sharpening in my view a much preferred and safer procedure.

The spindle assembly for each blade is 28 years old and was showing signs of drying out so, as it turns out, they would have had to be replaced in any event.  The tractor has been a very reliable machine - the engine still purrs like a kitten - so I feel the extra $$ is a preferred choice to a new one.  As I stated earlier, I always do a walk-about to check for foreign objects.  This time, however, I did not and was pushed into the spindle replacement a bit early.

Finally, I am 76 years old and do not feel a bit ashamed to have professionals do the work for me that I used to be able to do - and yep, I no longer change the oil or replace the mufflers in my car although I still have the tools.

Al

[WA2OLZ]

Good on you, Al. You have a six year headstart on me, but I guarantee you, there is little if any chance I can (or would) do what was nothing at all a decade ago!

It puts a whole new perspective on routine chores.

[Steve - K4HX]

No need to feel ashamed. Plenty of people out there far younger than you that don't even mow their grass.

Finally, I am 76 years old and do not feel a bit ashamed to have professionals do the work for me that I used to be able to do - and yep, I no longer change the oil or replace the mufflers in my car although I still have the tools.

Al

[KM1H]

Rodger and Carl:

A careful reading of my last post will reveal that the Dacron / Nylon rope had fused itself onto the shaft / bearing thus seizing things up.  There was simply no amount of cutting (or blow torching) that could have affected a remedy.

 

A careful reading gives no clue as to what brand/model of mower which is often the first step in a discussion like this. And dont think youre the first one to melt a rope on a spindle....there are ways to remove it on some mowers, all 3 of mine are vintage Craftsman and last year I replaced one spindle that was starting to seize.

Ramps?  I have a jack that allows me to raise the tractor nose up such that I have easy access to the bottom of the mowing deck.  I use this (along with a jackstand as a safety measure) to remove the blades for sharpening in my view a much preferred and safer procedure.

Tell me youre kidding! Using a jack in the center to lift leaves an unbalanced mower and a jackstand with arbitrary adjustments only helps one side. And you still havent chocked a rear wheel or two.  There is no safety in that procedure at all. Hopefully you will wise up and see well past 77 

Finally, I am 76 years old and do not feel a bit ashamed to have professionals do the work for me that I used to be able to do - and yep, I no longer change the oil or replace the mufflers in my car although I still have the tools

OTOH Im only 72 and still do my own work, especially oil, tranny fluid/filter, and exhaust work...it might explain why I can usually get 300K+ out of a US brand vehicle if I can get it early enough. Im helping my #3 son do an engine swap this week in his 98 Buick Century with a low miler from a 96 Olds Ciera with a blown tranny so its removing 2 engines, swapping some bolt on parts and installing one. I'll probably replace the intake manifold gaskets also as the 3.1L has a reputation of blowing the lower one.

Carl