Warning: Creating default object from empty value in /homepages/11/d132647312/htdocs/Amfone/mkportal/include/SMF/smf_out.php on line 47
Hallicrafters SX-88 Restoration Advice....




 
The AM Forum
October 22, 2019, 05:22:05 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Calendar Links Staff List Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 ... 4   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Hallicrafters SX-88 Restoration Advice....  (Read 55501 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« on: March 15, 2011, 09:13:25 AM »

Hello Everyone,
I am looking for recommendations....

I am about to aquire a Hallicrafters SX-88. (serial is very low 200's) Don't know if there were upgrades during the 500 production run.
The unit is in good working condition however it will need a cap/resistor changeout in the future (after my invader restore) in a couple of months.
As far as cosmetics, it needs an overhaul. The bezel suffers from the common warp problem, The panel will need paint/screening or replacement, same goes for the cabinet, and correct knobs.

I would like to know if anyone here has specifically taken on a SX-88 restoration?
Which type of caps to use for switchout, drive belt replacement, circuit upgrades, suggestions regarding disassembly.

I have been searching around the internet for the last week. It seems as though there was a gentleman who sold replica bezels for $230, It was Hank Arney KN6DI. This was back in 2004.
I do remember seeing a Fleabay auction with a guy selling his "Last" replica SX-88 front panel about a year ago.

All suggestions for restoring this Jewel back to it's 1954 Glory is welcomed!

Regards,
Len N2LEN

Logged
Pete, WA2CWA
Moderator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 7690


CQ CQ CONTEST


WWW
« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2011, 02:12:23 PM »

Here's a discussion about SX-88 restoration with some pictures:
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=115086&view=next&sid=2c6a08d4738eded4a8bbd9e98b732867
Logged

Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2011, 04:17:41 PM »

Thank you kindly for the reply Pete.

I did come across that web page while searching the net.

I have received some responses via e-mail regarding the replacement bezel.

However, So far....

I have been unsuccessful with my search to find a replica front panel/silk screen/paint person.

Len
Logged
kg8lb
Guest
« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2011, 04:32:45 PM »

Good one  I liked the one I had . Someone else liked it more .There is only one "original" finish.  Wink
Logged
Todd, KA1KAQ
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 4265


AMbassador


« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2011, 04:47:00 PM »

The fellow who took over the panel painting and screening from Lynn N0ALO (?) was here in NC, but apparently the biz has disappeared. The panel should be easy enough to do provided you get a good silkscreen made up first.

Hank Arney KN6DI and (I think) Gary Harmon who's K5 call escapes me at the moment made up that batch of bezels some years back. Not 'exact' as far as all the different radius cuts, but very close (and far better than a warped/cracked example). They used cast aluminum as I recall. No idea if any of those are left, but there might be one or two looking for homes still.

It's been a while since I looked closely at the knobs, can't recall if any are specific to that radio only as far as the lettered skirts go. Knowing Hallicrafters, probably not. 'JN has one and is a good one to ask about details.

Good luck with it.
Logged

known as The Voice of Vermont in a previous life
WQ9E
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 3225



« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2011, 05:39:17 PM »

Don't carelessly turn the SX-88 upside down on the bench with the case off because you will damage one of the IF transformers, there are a number of SX-88 receivers that suffered this fate.

You will find a number of black beauty caps inside.  The only really difficult area is the 2nd conversion oscillator chassis.  You will need to unsolder several difficult to reach wires in order to remove this sub-chassis, mark the locations carefully before removal.  In addition to the caps you will almost surely find a number of far out of spec resistors.

The only oddball problem with mine was a lead to one RF coil that was passed through the coil terminal, marked with red inspection paint, but never soldered. 

I don't know of any current source for the belt.  K9RJ (SK) had a run produced but those are long gone.  I would love to find a spare.  The receiver will work fine without it but the light shadow mask will no longer follow the band switch.

It is an enjoyable receiver once restored and mine has been very reliable.  It is paired with a Ranger/Desk KW and the Pierson KP-81 below is paired with a Viking 500.  I looked for a SX-88 for many years before finding one.  Mine is one of four originally owned by Bob Denniston who put Clipperton Island on the air in 1954.






* Desk.JPG (689.15 KB, 3504x2336 - viewed 1220 times.)

* SX-88ad.JPG (152.35 KB, 1280x628 - viewed 927 times.)

* rock.JPG (219.71 KB, 1280x774 - viewed 744 times.)
Logged

Rodger WQ9E
K5UJ
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2845



WWW
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2011, 06:19:04 PM »

That is a nice looking station there Rodger; I wonder how much TVI the Clipperton Is. dxpedition ran into  Wink
Logged

"Not taking crap or giving it is a pretty good lifestyle."--Frank
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2011, 07:14:06 PM »

Good one  I liked the one I had . Someone else liked it more .There is only one "original" finish.  Wink

Hello Gary,
I agree,
Anyone have a mint NOS SX-88 Front panel?  Grin
Logged
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2011, 07:31:26 PM »

The fellow who took over the panel painting and screening from Lynn N0ALO (?) was here in NC, but apparently the biz has disappeared. The panel should be easy enough to do provided you get a good silkscreen made up first.

Hank Arney KN6DI and (I think) Gary Harmon who's K5 call escapes me at the moment made up that batch of bezels some years back. Not 'exact' as far as all the different radius cuts, but very close (and far better than a warped/cracked example). They used cast aluminum as I recall. No idea if any of those are left, but there might be one or two looking for homes still.

It's been a while since I looked closely at the knobs, can't recall if any are specific to that radio only as far as the lettered skirts go. Knowing Hallicrafters, probably not. 'JN has one and is a good one to ask about details.

Good luck with it.

Todd,
Thanks for the reply....You have it all correct!
Actually Gary's call is K5JWK.
Gary called me this morning with an abundance of helpful information. He also game me some direct correspondence to assist with the location of a replacement bezel. I am actually awaiting response back from 2 individuals for the bezel inquiry.  (A true ham)! Regarding the front panel, several attempts at phone calls to Mike ended up with disconnected lines.
More specifically with my front panel, I am not sure if the panel is an actual SX-88 panel.
If it is, it has been totally stripped, but it appears to be gold anodized?
Would you or anyone take a close look at the picture for your determination at panel originality?
Maybe spray paint. I don't have the receiver in my possession yet. (Actually in transit)

Regarding the knobs, and everything else, I am on a SX-88 Mission!
Thanks for the detailed reply!
All the best....


* frontnatural056.jpg (343.1 KB, 1400x778 - viewed 994 times.)

* idplate055.jpg (510.45 KB, 1400x852 - viewed 838 times.)

* rearfull054.jpg (448.94 KB, 1400x897 - viewed 805 times.)
Logged
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2011, 07:59:45 PM »

Don't carelessly turn the SX-88 upside down on the bench with the case off because you will damage one of the IF transformers, there are a number of SX-88 receivers that suffered this fate.

You will find a number of black beauty caps inside.  The only really difficult area is the 2nd conversion oscillator chassis.  You will need to unsolder several difficult to reach wires in order to remove this sub-chassis, mark the locations carefully before removal.  In addition to the caps you will almost surely find a number of far out of spec resistors.

The only oddball problem with mine was a lead to one RF coil that was passed through the coil terminal, marked with red inspection paint, but never soldered. 

I don't know of any current source for the belt.  K9RJ (SK) had a run produced but those are long gone.  I would love to find a spare.  The receiver will work fine without it but the light shadow mask will no longer follow the band switch.

It is an enjoyable receiver once restored and mine has been very reliable.  It is paired with a Ranger/Desk KW and the Pierson KP-81 below is paired with a Viking 500.  I looked for a SX-88 for many years before finding one.  Mine is one of four originally owned by Bob Denniston who put Clipperton Island on the air in 1954.





Thanks for the reply Roger....
First off, I love that shack picture!
To tell you the truth,
I am still in total shock that I finally found a fine working SX-88.
I am sure you know that prices are all over the clock on these things....

I will follow your advice on the 50 or so capacitors and resistors!
Did the guy who owned the Belt company (Al from www.Adamsradio.com) ever complete reproducing a actual SX-88 replacement? If I read correctly, someone supplied him with a sample....

I will probably send him an e-mail...

Len,

Logged
WQ9E
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 3225



« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2011, 08:39:10 PM »

Len,

If you find a source for the belt please let me know!  I am a bit nervous when I change bands Smiley  There was an ER article that talked about making a replacement from piano wire, any port in a storm.

It has been several years since I went through my SX-88 but if you have any questions when you get into yours I will try to address them.   I made a couple of wooden "legs" to support my SX-88 when it was upside down. 

If you don't already have a signal generator that goes down to 50 Khz, start looking for one.  The final IF alignment is critical for best performance and you need a 50 Khz. generator to do it right.  If you have an audio frequency generator see how high it goes, before I bought the external down converter for my HP-8640B I used my very vintage HP audio oscillator which covered up to 200 Khz. on the high end.
Logged

Rodger WQ9E
w3jn
Johnny Novice
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 4590



« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2011, 11:27:41 PM »

I echo Rodger's comments.  Don't put the receiver on its left side, either, because you will be sure to break the IF transformers.

Per the belt, at a surplus store in Minneapolis I found a box of cogged belts that were surplus from copiers or something.  I picked out a few likely suspects and lo and behold one was the right tooth pitch but was about 1/2" too short and too wide.  The width issue was solved by slicing it down its middle with a razor blade; the length issue resolved by loosening all the idlers and shafts and re-tightening them with the belt in place.  I now have a spare, too  Grin

The hunt for knobs will certainly be interesting!  Good luck, Len!
Logged

FCC:  "The record is devoid of a demonstrated nexus between Morse code proficiency and on-the-air conduct."
kg8lb
Guest
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2011, 06:25:49 AM »

Good one  I liked the one I had . Someone else liked it more .There is only one "original" finish.  Wink

Hello Gary,
I agree,
Anyone have a mint NOS SX-88 Front panel?  Grin

I hear you, the dividing line between preserve and restore.They don't have to be mint to work well.  Wink
 Different folks place different weights on the two. I used to want to take everything back to day one. Lately I have taken more interest in getting the function into top shape whilst cleaning up and preserving as much of the original finish as possible. Different philosophies for everyone. I get a bigger charge out of a well preserved original than anything that even hints of refinishing. In the end , the owner must decide  .In too many cases the previous owners may have already made a big enough mess  that a refinishing job is about the only option. Looks like you are there ! Either way, the SX-88 is a real fine catch, congrats.
 You may find that a good RP shop can make up a very nice plastic bezel for you.  You could also have a 3D working model or pattern made and hand lay a good looking fiberglass replacement. In the concept car business we often made parts like this with fibreglass.  The glass of course is far more stable than the Halliplastic and should hold up for years.
  
Logged
K5UJ
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 2845



WWW
« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2011, 06:54:38 AM »

Bob W0YVA does HT-20 front panels.   Maybe he also refurbs SX-88s.  Might not hurt to ask.  You have to get it separate from the bezel.  I see your bezel warped.  I had that happen on my HT-20.  For now I'm just going to run it without the bezel as mine is so warped and cracked it actually looks better without it.  Unfortunately the SX-88 bezel goes all the way across the front.   Embarrassed  I learned from Rodger that if you encounter a stuck set screw on a knob, drop a bit of oil down the hole and let it set for a day.  If your f.p. isn't too bad maybe you don't have to have it redone.  On the HT-20 here the paint was peeling off and it looked like hell.  One other thing, somewhere on this site there's instructions by JN on how to redo the Hallicrafters gray/black cabinets.  

oops, just saw the front panel--yeah if you don't like that look get the bead blaster ready
Logged

"Not taking crap or giving it is a pretty good lifestyle."--Frank
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2011, 09:01:04 AM »

Len,

If you find a source for the belt please let me know!  I am a bit nervous when I change bands Smiley  There was an ER article that talked about making a replacement from piano wire, any port in a storm.

It has been several years since I went through my SX-88 but if you have any questions when you get into yours I will try to address them.   I made a couple of wooden "legs" to support my SX-88 when it was upside down. 

If you don't already have a signal generator that goes down to 50 Khz, start looking for one.  The final IF alignment is critical for best performance and you need a 50 Khz. generator to do it right.  If you have an audio frequency generator see how high it goes, before I bought the external down converter for my HP-8640B I used my very vintage HP audio oscillator which covered up to 200 Khz. on the high end.

Regarding the belt....
I sure will!
Is there a way to locate that ER article? Would be fun reading..... Grin
I would have to look at my Marconi to see if the signal generator goes down to 50 KHz.
However, if not a friend offered to align it for me after the cap/resist refresh.
Wooden legs... To hold it up on an angle while working on it?

You see, this is still quite new to me, I'm a repeater man...

Thank you for the offer of assistance. I will probably take you up on that.
Everyone did, when I pulled the front panel off the Viking 500 to restring the band switch!

Regards,
Len

 
Logged
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2011, 09:09:26 AM »

I echo Rodger's comments.  Don't put the receiver on its left side, either, because you will be sure to break the IF transformers.

Per the belt, at a surplus store in Minneapolis I found a box of cogged belts that were surplus from copiers or something.  I picked out a few likely suspects and lo and behold one was the right tooth pitch but was about 1/2" too short and too wide.  The width issue was solved by slicing it down its middle with a razor blade; the length issue resolved by loosening all the idlers and shafts and re-tightening them with the belt in place.  I now have a spare, too  Grin

The hunt for knobs will certainly be interesting!  Good luck, Len!

Hey John,
Thanks for the input!
I love reading this stuff....I did read your belt find....
Fantastic job, to get you up and running, and now with a spare! Grin

Len
Logged
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2011, 09:49:13 AM »

Good one  I liked the one I had . Someone else liked it more .There is only one "original" finish.  Wink

Hello Gary,
I agree,
Anyone have a mint NOS SX-88 Front panel?  Grin

I hear you, the dividing line between preserve and restore.They don't have to be mint to work well.  Wink
 Different folks place different weights on the two. I used to want to take everything back to day one. Lately I have taken more interest in getting the function into top shape whilst cleaning up and preserving as much of the original finish as possible. Different philosophies for everyone. I get a bigger charge out of a well preserved original than anything that even hints of refinishing. In the end , the owner must decide  .In too many cases the previous owners may have already made a big enough mess  that a refinishing job is about the only option. Looks like you are there ! Either way, the SX-88 is a real fine catch, congrats.
 You may find that a good RP shop can make up a very nice plastic bezel for you.  You could also have a 3D working model or pattern made and hand lay a good looking fiberglass replacement. In the concept car business we often made parts like this with fibreglass.  The glass of course is far more stable than the Halliplastic and should hold up for years.
  

I completely agree!
There is nothing better than the original deep dark looking Patina from the original finish.
Yup....With this rig, the only option is a complete cosmetic overhaul...
Interesting idea on the fiberglass replacement, I would still need a complete original panel for the artwork?
When I look at the pictures, it appears that the panel maybe original from the cut out pattern for the 5 switches
in the center...

I should be able to verify this after it arrives tomorrow....

Len



Logged
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #17 on: March 16, 2011, 09:54:03 AM »

Bob W0YVA does HT-20 front panels.   Maybe he also refurbs SX-88s.  Might not hurt to ask.  You have to get it separate from the bezel.  I see your bezel warped.  I had that happen on my HT-20.  For now I'm just going to run it without the bezel as mine is so warped and cracked it actually looks better without it.  Unfortunately the SX-88 bezel goes all the way across the front.   Embarrassed  I learned from Rodger that if you encounter a stuck set screw on a knob, drop a bit of oil down the hole and let it set for a day.  If your f.p. isn't too bad maybe you don't have to have it redone.  On the HT-20 here the paint was peeling off and it looked like hell.  One other thing, somewhere on this site there's instructions by JN on how to redo the Hallicrafters gray/black cabinets. 

Hello Robert,
Thank you for your reply and suggestions. I will send Bob an e-mail and ask....
I will follow your advice with the "stuck screw set on a knob"!
Yup the front panel, entire cabinet, bezel, knobs, etc., all need to either be changed or replaced with replicas.....

Len
Logged
kg8lb
Guest
« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2011, 11:02:59 AM »

Good one  I liked the one I had . Someone else liked it more .There is only one "original" finish.  Wink

Hello Gary,
I agree,
Anyone have a mint NOS SX-88 Front panel?  Grin

I hear you, the dividing line between preserve and restore.They don't have to be mint to work well.  Wink
 Different folks place different weights on the two. I used to want to take everything back to day one. Lately I have taken more interest in getting the function into top shape whilst cleaning up and preserving as much of the original finish as possible. Different philosophies for everyone. I get a bigger charge out of a well preserved original than anything that even hints of refinishing. In the end , the owner must decide  .In too many cases the previous owners may have already made a big enough mess  that a refinishing job is about the only option. Looks like you are there ! Either way, the SX-88 is a real fine catch, congrats.
 You may find that a good RP shop can make up a very nice plastic bezel for you.  You could also have a 3D working model or pattern made and hand lay a good looking fiberglass replacement. In the concept car business we often made parts like this with fibreglass.  The glass of course is far more stable than the Halliplastic and should hold up for years.
  

I completely agree!
There is nothing better than the original deep dark looking Patina from the original finish.
Yup....With this rig, the only option is a complete cosmetic overhaul...
Interesting idea on the fiberglass replacement, I would still need a complete original panel for the artwork?
When I look at the pictures, it appears that the panel maybe original from the cut out pattern for the 5 switches
in the center...

I should be able to verify this after it arrives tomorrow....

Len





 While a good original would be the first choice, an artful wood pattern maker could do a credible job from what you may have , along with some photos. Make up a wood positive and pull a glass or plaster mold from that "plug" Use the mold for a lay up. If there are studs or tapped bushing, they can be fixtured into place. An experienced model maker will know just what needs to be done.
Logged
w3jn
Johnny Novice
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 4590



« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2011, 11:49:35 AM »

Hallicrafters gray/black cabinets:  Semi gloss rustoleum for the black part.  The cabinet top can be painted with a GMC truck DupliColor pewter or silver gray (can't remember which I used now) which is a very close match.  Spray bomb silver is way too bright.  The DupliColor's tone is almost exact but it of course has little flakes in it that the original doesn't have, so a close eye can tell the difference.

Key to success is a lot of prep work.  Sand it well, make sure all scratches are sanded smooth.  Wash a couple times using mild detergent.  Use a tack rag, then prime with gray.  Sand with wet 400 grit.  Clean.  Tack rag.  Another coat of primer.  Sand (wet 600 grit this time), clean, tack rag.  If it's smooth as a baby's bottom by this time, do the black (or silver gray, depending upon the piece you're painting).  Sand, clean, tack rag, then the final coat. 

If it'll fit in your oven, bake it at 180 degrees between coats.  There'll be hell to pay with the war department but the finish will be good and tough.

Logged

FCC:  "The record is devoid of a demonstrated nexus between Morse code proficiency and on-the-air conduct."
n2len
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 213


« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2011, 12:08:43 PM »

Hallicrafters gray/black cabinets:  Semi gloss rustoleum for the black part.  The cabinet top can be painted with a GMC truck DupliColor pewter or silver gray (can't remember which I used now) which is a very close match.  Spray bomb silver is way too bright.  The DupliColor's tone is almost exact but it of course has little flakes in it that the original doesn't have, so a close eye can tell the difference.

Key to success is a lot of prep work.  Sand it well, make sure all scratches are sanded smooth.  Wash a couple times using mild detergent.  Use a tack rag, then prime with gray.  Sand with wet 400 grit.  Clean.  Tack rag.  Another coat of primer.  Sand (wet 600 grit this time), clean, tack rag.  If it's smooth as a baby's bottom by this time, do the black (or silver gray, depending upon the piece you're painting).  Sand, clean, tack rag, then the final coat. 

If it'll fit in your oven, bake it at 180 degrees between coats.  There'll be hell to pay with the war department but the finish will be good and tough.


John...Some further questions....
When you stripped the cabinet, Do you remember if the color of the aluminum was anodized gold or silver?
Is the grey/black color of the SX88 the same as the SX101?
When I receive the SX88 tomorrow, it will unveil some questions regarding the originality of the front panel and if the cabinet was painted gold.

Much thanks again!


* front047.jpg (579.4 KB, 1400x945 - viewed 753 times.)

* leftside053.jpg (578.06 KB, 1400x982 - viewed 682 times.)

* leftside051.jpg (695.34 KB, 1400x1092 - viewed 693 times.)
Logged
Todd, KA1KAQ
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 4265


AMbassador


« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2011, 12:29:37 PM »

Definitely not an original finished panel if you're still wondering on that, Len. Looks like someone had it anodized and applied some P-Touch labels to a few controls. The rest are blank, labels were on the knob skirts for many.

Should be a typical Halli gray panel with white lettering and trim around the switches. Maybe Rodger can give you a good close up shot of his to give you a good idea where to start.

I'd say if you get a replacement bezel and get the front panel repainted, that would be more than half the battle. Knobs will be a challenge, but some at least may well be shared with a few other sets like the SX-62, SX-42, etc. that also used the labeled aluminum skirts. You've got the two main tuning knobs which is a big plus, they're probably the most difficult to find. Halli used them on the SX-73 and R-649, maybe a couple others. I have no idea if any of the small knobs were specific to the 88 only, though I doubt it.

Johnny is right on the money for the black color. If you can't find the silver he suggests, Rustoleum had a good match for the silver cabinet cover too. Can't remember the name/number right now. Seems like it was Dull Aluminum or something along those lines. Not too bright, no shiny bits.

Looks like you've got a excellent foundation for a rebuild. As was mentioned, it may not end up being perfect 'collector quality', but you should come out of it with a nice looking and working set when all is said and done.
Logged

known as The Voice of Vermont in a previous life
w3jn
Johnny Novice
Administrator
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 4590



« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2011, 02:01:30 PM »

The gold lid is a hammy hambone addition, too.  All Hallicrafters cabinets in that style had basically the same paint - black cabinet with a silver lid.  It's just plain ol' steel underneath.

That cabinet is unique to the SX-88 though, it's deeper than any other Hallicrafters cabinet.
Logged

FCC:  "The record is devoid of a demonstrated nexus between Morse code proficiency and on-the-air conduct."
KC4VWU
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 639


« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2011, 02:27:09 PM »

This may or may not be helpful on the bezel, but since it looks to only be distorted, you may be able to straighten it if you're very careful.

I did a straightening job on a bezel or "hood, if you will", for a NC-270 once. With a lot of patience, and luck, I got it back straight as an arrow. The main thing to remember is work VERY slowly, over days; weeks, if necessary. Crank a LITTLE pressure, let it stand a day, take it out and re-check it. You'll need a good bench vise and a lot of different shim materials in different sizes, shapes, and material. Don't forget that a little heat in various temps/durations can really help also. The key is VERY SLOW! Also, if it does manage to crack, remember those Wonder Rods they used to advertise on tv that would braze anything? The only 2 times I have seen those actually used, they did work. Once more, VERY SLOWLY.

As it stands, you don't have anything to lose, but don't take that mindset when you start. Think of it as being the last one available. If it is really crappy pot metal, it may be a fruitless exercise, but what the heck?

73, Phil   

 
Logged
KC4VWU
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 639


« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2011, 02:33:30 PM »

Also, I forgot to add, JUST IN CASE there is a possibility, make sure it's not made out of magnesium BEFORE you add any flame?
 
73, Phil
Logged
Pages: [1] 2 ... 4   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

AMfone - Dedicated to Amplitude Modulation on the Amateur Radio Bands
 AMfone 2001-2015
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.085 seconds with 18 queries.