Dial Glass Replacement for 32V3

[n2len]

Does anyone have any information (procedure) to replace the dial glass on the 32V3?
What needs to be removed from the front panel for access?
Correct measurements for glass replacement etc...

Any assist,
Would be greatly appreciated...
Happy Holiday's
Regards,
Len N2LEN

[n2len]

Looking at some boxes that came with the transmitter, I located 3 replacement glass pieces...I guess the previous owner purchased the replacement....

So I can still use the procedure....

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

All glass work will require removal of the front panel. The 2 main pieces of glass in the front panel (main dial and kc window) are pretty self-explanatory once the panel is off. The piece of glass used for the main dial on the PTO (behind the red dial needle) has the scale screened on the back of the glass as I recall, and is considerably more involved. Unless that piece if badly shattered, I would strongly suggest not messing with it beyond a careful wiping of the front of the glass with a lightly damped cloth, if it's dirty enough to require this. Do not spray anything on it, as it will likely find its way behind the glass and mess up the scales.

[n2len]

Thanks Much Todd...

Very much appreciated...
This will be a part of this winter's weekend projects....
Only the very front glass needs to be changed. However, the KC glass is kind of dirty
from being exposed without the front glass being there.
Thanks for the advice on not spraying anything on it, just gently wiping it!

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Yep, just take a piece or two of paper towel, fold them several times into a pad of sorts, and lightly dampen one side. Wipe side-to-side across the front of the inside glass carefully so as not to wiggle it around, and you should be good. Better to start with too little moisture than not enough. I've used Glass Plus before with good results, but only lightly applied to the cloth or paper towel. Be sure to run the dial fiducial (red needle) all the way to one end before starting, of course.

You are fortunate to only have to replace the front glass. Comparatively-speaking, it's a piece-o-cake compared to changing the PTO glass scale, if you can even find a replacement. Someone was offering clear plastic inserts that allowed using regular glass for replacement with the insert behind, but I've never seen one that looked right.

[n2len]

Todd...

Thanks much...
I will follow your detailed suggestions for cleaning....
I am assuming, removal of all knobs, then nuts for each control, then bottom switches, chrome strips? meters?
To tell you the truth,
I was surprised of the actual weight of this 100 watt beast.
It wasn't until I lifted it up and off the floor during purchase, somewhat shocked at the poundage....
However, A very nice looking rig, with the 75A2 should be a nice peanut whistle rig for
future QSO.

Attached 2 pictures of the 2 newer Christmas additions....

Thanks again,
Len N2LEN

[n2len]

Maybe a better pic from the other side.....

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Some good looking gear there, Len.

It's been a few (15+) years since I had a 32V panel off, but as I recall the only nuts that need removing are the three on the toggle switches. The shafts all pass through the panel IIRC. You will find a number of Phillips head flush-mounted screws that actually hold the panel to the chassis. These will need to be removed. Meters don't need to be removed, simply disconnect the electrical connections on the back of each so that you can remove the panel. Chrome strips don't need to be removed either.

You'll probably at least want to slide it a few inches out of the cabinet, if not remove it entirely, to access the back of the meters and also to view down between the panel and chassis to see where it's hanging up if it doesn't come off easily.

Should be a piece of cake, half an hour to an hour tops provided everything comes off easily. I recommend you hold the finished panel up to the light before re-installing to check the replaced glass for prints or smudges before putting it all back together. Nothing is more annoying.

Have fun with it.

[n2len]

Todd...

Thanks for your kind words regarding the "Man-cave"!

Also, Thanks for the continued thoughts regarding dis assembly.

Sounds like a pretty easy task...

I will probably hoist it on to the work bench this weekend to complete the job.

 

[n2len]

Todd...

I removed the transmitter from the cabinet...

Removed the 2 nuts for the switches, I removed the knobs...
I also removed the flanged mounted Philips head screws...
I needed to removed the top chrome strip for removal of 2 flanged mounted
screws that hold the KC dial assembly along with the VFO.
Looking from the back and down from the front of the display I see the front glass holder.
It is apparently held down with 2 screws under the lower chrome strip. Looking from
the back I noticed that the upper glass display holder and screws are missing.
I also noticed some glue on the back of the panel from a previous front glass replacement.
I may have to continue to remove the entire panel if gluing is necessary

Some pictures....

[n2len]

pic 2

[n2len]

pic 3

[n2bc]

Be careful of the scales screened on the main glass.... as I recall it is water soluable.

[n2len]

Thanks...

Being that the top glass holder and screws are missing..I tried to use speaker holder clips from an old cb radio. Shaved them down and used 2 screws from a 4 pin mic jack clamp. The thread size of the screws matched.
The clips held the glass perfectly, however when I was re assembling the from panel and vfo/kc the red detent marker needle when moved touches the head of the screw.
I can probably place a very light bead of silicone around the edge of the glass panel, let dry and remove the screws and clips....

Picture attached....

[n2len]

pic #2

Anyone have any ideas or a top/bottom mount for the glass?

[n2len]

Job done....!

Re shaved the edge off the clips, 2 small thin washers to sit the dial back a hair...

Thanks....

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

And you did it without breaking the glass or anything else. Good job.

I'd forgotten that the top chrome strip interferes with the edges of those two screws. Fortunately it just snaps out and back in easily.

Now you've just gotta get that tin foil off the tuning knob and it'll look like new. Keep your eyes open online, you can probably pick up the missing hardware, too.

[n2len]

This job is done!

Thanks for all you help Todd and Gang much appreciated!

I also quickly blew out the loose dust, a little cleaning of the knobs...

Next job in some weeks will be complete, cleaning, caps etc....

All the very best....

[n2len]

pic 2
stage #1 completed...

[ke7trp]

Boy thats a nice set of Old Browning radios.  I have an mk4 and an mk3 still packed away. Prob never use them as there is nobody decent to talk to on 11 meters   But they sure are neat old radios.  Not to mention my favorite, The Desk.  What a collection!

C

[n2len]

Thanks for your kind words....

Those Brownings and Trams, Sonars, etc... Were the true..."Creme' de la creme'" in the day.....

However, I wouldn't mind replacing a few with a GK500......

[ke7trp]

LOL. Brownings for a GK500?

C