Making Chassis & ?? out of angle aluminum and sheet aluminum

[WA1GFZ]

Just picked up 2- 8 foot lengths of 1/8 inch angle aluminum at home Depot
They were 3/4 by 3/4 and 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 inch $55

[K9PNP]

Mostly use a hand-held saber saw with metal blades here.  Usually does OK if you take your time.  Sometimes has a rough edge, but that is easily fixable.  I have found that old street signs make really good chassis and  mobile antenna mounts for locations where a commercial mount would cost too much for cheap people like me.  They have tough aluminum; don't know the alloy, will have to find that out some day.  If you know somebody at the local municipal sign shop, sometimes you can get ones taken out of service for nothing or close to that.  Use the aluminum angles to joint the pieces at the edges using either pop rivets or screws according to what it is and the stresses it will have to put up with.

[KD6VXI]

I have found that old street signs make really good chassis and  mobile antenna mounts for locations where a commercial mount would cost too much for cheap people like me.  They have tough aluminum; don't know the alloy, will have to find that out some day.  If you know somebody at the local municipal sign shop, sometimes you can get ones taken out of service for nothing or close to that. 

Repurposed stop signs make both EXCELLENT tops for V/UHF discones as well as ground planes for 220 and above verticals for repeater work.

And to the original poster, almost ALL my chassis are made from angle iron and home cheapo parts.  I haven't wasted my dollars on a BUD or similar in years.

Make a friend at the HVAC shops around town, they usually have shears, brakes, etc. for metal work.  I've found it costs about a 6 pack to 12 pack if I bring all the metal in, and about 20 minutes.

--Shane

[KD6VXI]

How do you cut the sheet aluminum? I have a table saw and an expensive metal cutting blade but after getting my finger trimmed off a few years ago, I am a bit hesitant.

Pat
N4LTA

How 'bout a jig saw?  They have metal cutting blades these days and you can clamp the crap out of the metal before attempting the cut.  

Also works well.  Another trick when using the jigsaw or the "sawzall" type devices is this.  When you clamp it down, sammich your piece of work between two pieces of wood.  I'm not an engineer, and I can't tell you why, but it really helps the cuts come out cleaner.  No chance of kicking out or at you, either.

--Shane

[K1JJ]

Also works well.  Another trick when using the jigsaw or the "sawzall" type devices is this.  When you clamp it down, sammich your piece of work between two pieces of wood.  I'm not an engineer, and I can't tell you why, but it really helps the cuts come out cleaner.  No chance of kicking out or at you, either.

--Shane

Good idea for safety. The sandwich will keep the work piece from flexing or lateral movement, thus preventing binding and causing a kick-back.  

It appears most accidents occur cuz the work doesn't flow straight and true - and without flexing. The clamped down sandwich appears to handle both problems.   Otherwise, the blade gets a grip on the binding work and all hell breaks loose, as well as creating shoddy cut lines.

Because of this thread, I'm gonna be REAL careful and take new precautions with my table saw. I kinda thought my few bad experiences were random, but evidently it's a real hazard to avoid.

T

[WA1GFZ]

Siding guys mount a carbide blade backwards in a saw. I wonder if it works with thicker stuff.