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Author Topic: Viking II..Rusty Knob Removal..  (Read 5639 times)
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KD7KOY
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« on: October 27, 2009, 02:44:16 AM »

I don't know if this is techinical, but any suggestions would be appreciated.

I acquired a Viking II that had been sitting for a very long time in a garage/barn.

The transformers, insides and chassis are not in bad shape.
The case is bad, especially the front.
The logo and some areas are corroded down to the copper color.
Oddly enough, the corrosion seemed to have missed the lettering which is good.
I'm not sure yet what I will do as far as the case..
Get a used one..paint it black krinkle and call it done?
I've replaced the caps and some resistors thus far.
I've managed to get two knobs off thus far (10 to go.)
The 10 remaining are rusted bad..real bad.
Anybody have an idea for removing rusty knobs?
I'm talking RUSTY..
The bakelite is good and should polish up nice.
Hate to mess them up doing something that would damage them.
It was abused but I'd like to get it on the air.
I have an HQ-129X to mate it with.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2009, 08:26:03 AM »

Try a couple drops of marvel mystery oil. Take the set screw out and put a couple drops in the hole and let it set a couple days
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2009, 08:36:46 AM »



I suggest a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and ATF.
Works and penetrates like a charm, eats rust.
Let soak for several days on the set screws... once the set screws are out it is easy.
As said, drop in the hole and let soak...

                 _-_-bear
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
WA1GFZ
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« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2009, 09:57:44 AM »

laque thinner may attack the finish on the knob but ATF is a good idea
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2009, 11:41:09 AM »

50-50 mix of WD-40 and ATF. good for coughs, colds..................
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K7NCR
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« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2009, 12:08:19 PM »

The auto dealers may help here... Mopar has "Rust Penetrant", GM has "Heat Valve Lube", both are the same stuff, very effective! (freed up a frozen 318 for me in 2 days, and ran just fine afterwords!  Grin )
Norm K7NCR
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W1AEX
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« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2009, 02:16:37 PM »

Can't argue with any of the suggestions here so far. I have had very good luck with simply douching the shaft and the set screw with WD-40 and then letting it sit for a few days. If it still doesn't free up easily, I douche it again and wait another few days. That's always done it with my Johnson...
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WBear2GCR
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2009, 04:27:30 PM »


Hmmm... dunno about that! Roll Eyes I am a bit more particular about what I put on my own personal Johnson for lube...

Sorry couldn't resist...


                        _-_-WBear2GCR
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2009, 04:45:36 PM »

My Dad always had a little bottle of p oil for these kind of problems.
I've seen it in spray cans from auto parts joints.
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KD7KOY
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« Reply #9 on: October 29, 2009, 12:31:22 AM »

WD-40 and lacquer thinner seems to have done the trick..

Thanks all.
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Ed-VA3ES
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« Reply #10 on: October 29, 2009, 09:40:41 AM »

What's "ATF"?
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K9PNP
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« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2009, 09:14:48 PM »

I tried some good penetrating oil that normally works for almost any rusty mess, but no go.  Even tried some turbine oil [in very small drops] with no good results.  Ended up using a screw extractor on 2 before it broke.  Really rusted to break one of those.  Finally ended up completely drilling out the set screws on 2.
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73,  Mitch

Since 1958. There still is nothing like tubes to keep your coffee warm in the shack.

Vulcan Theory of Troubleshooting:  Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
WQ9E
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« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2009, 09:23:26 PM »

What's "ATF"?

Ed,

Automatic Transmission Fluid for us vintage gear types who have updated to those newfangled "automagic" transmissions.   Wink
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Rodger WQ9E
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