I'm gonna try one thing before considering TenTec......I'll try to get a hot pencil type iron on the three doorknobs on S1B and get to the cold solder joints, THEN I'll get to the one dooknob, that I marked with red, on S1C, and solder the phillips screw term back on to the top. Can this cap get hot to melt solder?
I am familiar with the MFJ 'looking back' back into the tank. You have to disconnect the pubes and connect an equivalant value resistor to immitate the plate resistance.
Fred
You don't have to disconnect the tubes Fred. Just hook the resistor across them to ground.
If those doorknobs have been zorched or near one that has, then replacement of the zorched one is necessary. A very thorough cleaning of the others is in order, including in all crevices. Some of that zorch matter can be like the carbon tracks on ceramic switches.
When you finish, the thing should shine a much like a new baby's bottom as possible.