<<<4XX series had problems with transistor sockets. Best way to fix the problem is to solder the transistors into the socket.>>>
Thanks Frank, I have two of those. I thought the transistor sockets were a nice feature
I hate to solder them; maybe I'll re-seat them if there's a problem.
Clark, what are you talking about?You must be asking about the SWR bridge mod. Go back and read my earlier posts. If you are asking for a schematic diagram the "design" is so simple it hardly needs any diagram. Get a elcheapo SWR bridge, the kind that inserts in an unbalanced feedline with a meter and a "forward/reverse" switch. They have a meter set pot. The idea is that you transmit a carrier and adjust the pot so in forward position the meter reads full scale. You flip the switch to "reverse" and read the line SWR.
Well, the bridge has a couple cheap glass diodes that rectify the picked up RF to drive the meter movement. They are connected to the wiper on the pot via the switch. That's your rectified RF. You need only drill a hole in the cabinet, insert a jack (BNC or RCA phono work best) and run a short jumper from the jack center to the pot wiper. use some kind of coax jumper from that to your scope trigger.
That's the "design."
For pickup of the RF you probably have that taken care of. I didn't even bother making a probe box; I simply used an available jack on a feedline coax switch. The isolation is good enough so I get enough signal to see without blowing anything and I have it arranged to prevent accidentally transmitting into the scope, which would be a real bummer if it were to happen.
My first scope was an old Tek 475 I got from work for fifty bucks. I did not know it at the time but it was not in very good shape and this is what I tried to get a stable display. I still use that scope to see received mod. envelopes via an IF tube tap on the 75A3. It is tricky because I only have the signal to trigger on so I have to get it just right and Ioose it if the amplitude drops.
Rob