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Author Topic: Paint Codes and/or Paint Source for Collins 20V ??  (Read 4391 times)
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KM8AM
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...dogs and cats living together - mass hysteria.


« on: August 02, 2006, 12:35:48 AM »

I'm looking for the codes and/or a source for the light and dark grey paint.

Thanks in advance

Ken WA2JQW/8
kdm@ctcn.net
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...Ken, km8am
Mike/W8BAC
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« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2006, 04:18:08 PM »

Hi,

You say 20-V. Is it a V-1, V-2 or V-3? You say light and dark grey so I assume a V-3? I have a DuPont number for a match I did of the light grey. It is 2 part epoxy Emron (sp). Will that do?

Mike
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N0BST
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« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2006, 10:01:13 PM »

If you could pull some parts off of it with each color, take it to an automotive paint store and have them mix some up for you.  I'm going to have to do that with a Western Electric that I had stored in an area that developed a roof leak.  Didn't drip into the transmitter, but the extra humidity killed the paint job on it.

Scott Todd
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KM8AM
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...dogs and cats living together - mass hysteria.


« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2006, 01:18:04 AM »

It's a 20V-1.

Thanks
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Mike/W8BAC
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« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2006, 09:01:54 AM »

Hi Ken,

A few thoughts on painting your old beauty.

I don't know what condition yours is in. Mine was dragged out of it's original home and on to live several years in three other wannabe hams garages. It wasn't treated well but the original Collins paint job held up good. The scratches going through the exterior paint in places had to be fixed and rust on the inside bottom could not be ignored.

If yours is just dull and maybe a few light scratches you might try rubbing it out and polishing it. McGuire's makes some fine products for this. I would recommend Medium cut, fine cut and cleaner wax. This stuff works best with a polisher. You might be really happy with the results.

 If your thinking about spot painting, in my opinion, I wouldn't do it. No matter how hard a color matcher tries or how good he might be it's never exact and you end up with a checkerboard.

If it really dose need a complete paint job I would start talking to a body shop for a really long list of reasons. If your going to use enamel like the original or a newer two part epoxy be careful. Normal enamel has lots of toxic solvents. Epoxy paints have the same solvents and other neat stuff like arsenic. A surgical mask won't protect you at all. The mess from overspray and dirt in the paint from air born stuff in the garage will drive you nuts. Just tell the painter what you want painted and what you want masked and they will handle it.

My two cents worth Ken. Good luck, be careful, and Geterdone!

Mike
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WA3VJB
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« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2006, 08:20:07 AM »

Some good tips already here.
I recommend also talking with Joe WA3GMS for additional detailed advice.
He has a late 1940s Gates 250W transmitter that he has done a ful cosmetic restoration upon, using an automotive body shop craftsman to beat the panels straight, fill gouges with hot lead, primer, base coat and top coat with a clear final overlay paint job. I haven't seen it, and the job is at least two years underway, but I'm sure he's got some guidance as to what to look for in a metalworker and paint booth.
Joe's email is in the callbook.
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