VE6PG: Electrolytic caps C10/11, C12/13

[KC4HGH]

Did you replace these with modern-day equivalants or did you find repro's? If the latter, where'd you get 'em?

I'm a newbie to the Viking II, just got it a few days ago & am going through it.  Thanks!

Bud, KC4HGH

[ve6pg]

...HEY BUD...NAW,USED REPLACEMENTS...SAFER...BTW,BOB W2ZM GAVE LOTS OF INFO ON THE VIKING...IF YOU CAN,REPLACE THE RESISTORS. AFTER ALL THESE YEARS,THEY MAY LOOK GOOD,BUT BECAUSE OF THE HEAT IN THAT BOX,THEY TEND TO CHANGE THEIR VALUE..GOOD EXAMPLE,THE 2 100ohm RESISTORS GOING TO THE 807s, I REPLACED THEM,AND THEIR VALUE HAD CLIMBED TO 165,AND 130 ohms..THAT'S A HELL OF AN INCREASE...SOOOO...CHANGE THE RESISTORS,AND CAPS,THEY TOO NEED ATTENTION. THE GOOD THING IS,THEY ARE CHEAP,AND NOT A WHOLE OF THEM IN THE RIG...THERE'S ALOT MORE YOU CAN DO,REMOVE THAT CAP THAT BRIDGES THE 807s...ACTS LIKE AN AUDIO FILTER..YOU DONT NEED IT....TIM....SK..

[w3jn]

You can rebuild ANY can capacitor fairly easily.  First, buy replacements from AES, Mouser, Allied, etc.  I prefer the radial lead (both leads coming out the bottom) but axials will work also.  Take a Dremel mototool with a cutoff wheel and circumcise the can just above the ridge where it's crimped onto the base.  Yoink the top off, and remove all the crap inside.  Solder the new caps to the existing base using heat shrink on the leads so nothing shorts out, arranging them so there's room to put the top back on the can.  Get some of that steel epoxy (forget the brand) from the auto parts store and glue the top back on the can - put some weight on it while it sets, and yer done.

Modern electrolytics are much smaller than their older equivalents, and most likely will fit inside the can with plenty of room to spare.

If you can't fit 'em in you can replace them under the chassis to keep the look original up top, but BE SURE you disconnect the old ones.

73 John

[KC4HGH]

AOK on the new caps...Allied Electronics is one of our suppliers here at work...in looking at their catalog, the closest thing I see to the 15 uf caps is 10 & 22 uf.....any problems with going up in capacitance?  I'll also be doing some testing on those resistors, for sure, in the power area, to begin with.  Thanks, ANY tips are greatly appreciated!

Bud, KC4HGH

[KC4HGH]

Tim?  The cap bridging the 807s...you must be talking about C7, .001 uf ahead of the two 100 ohm resistors?

Cool idea on using the original cans, John!  I'd seen something like that from Antique radio Supply, I think, years ago, where they built modern-day componants in early-componant packages, et. al. "Repros"....

Looks like I'll be making a grocery list.  Any info is helpful!

Thanks, Bud KC4HGH

[ve6pg]

ya....bud..u dont need it...tear it out,audio will sound much better...more broadcast like...tim...sk...