Question: WRL Globe Scout 680(A)

Well David - after comparing the manuals, the only difference I can find, other than the cabinet & front panel, is that the A model has one component added - a 70 pf cap across the 6M output link. The tune up on 6M is slightly different also. On the 680A, you're supposed to set the ANT LOAD to MAX, and on the original 680, it's supposed to be set for MIN. The whole 6M thing is done rather poorly. Having said that, I used to hear lot's of them on in the late 50's & early 60's, and they sounded pretty good for a couple of Watts - at best. Most people didn't have power meters, and thought that 50W input gave you a lot more output. Gonsets put out 2 to 4x the power of Globe Scout. So much for Leo's "more Watts per dollar" slogan.
On the other hand, the Scout Deluxe has a much better output circuit on 6M; they used a separate PA plate tuning cap instead of the rinky-dink copper contact rubbing on the main variable, as on earlier versions. The contact invariably wears the surface of the rotor plate where it touches the PA tuning vap, and you get arcing.
Good luck with the Scout - it's a realy fun rig.
73, George - K1GXT

PS - Forgot to mention.....
The Globe Scout and LA-1 really look nice together, but they are not at all well matched. My LA-1 needs only 5 - 7W to drive it fully on 80 thru 20M, but it only puts out about 100W. The Scout does 40 - 50 W on 80 & 40M, down to about 20W on 20M. Except for 20M, it's a lot of hardware and heat for very little gain ~ 3 dB.
Also, check out the LA-1 selenium bias rectifiers carefully; I've yet to find a 50 year old selenium that works. Better yet; replace them, but remember that silicons have a different voltage drop. I've been thinking about mounting a small xfmr under the chassis, with a rectifier & regulator circuit to get the right bias volts.
Good luck; your mileage may vary!