Odd toggle switch assembly

[n4joy]

I have a bad CW/Phone switch on my Lettine 130.  The toggle switch assembly consists of a DPDT and SPST switch made by UND Labs.  Each switch has a slit for a bar that allows them to both work in unison with a single switch.  The  DPDT switch is bad.

I could purchase a 3PDT switch but the wires would be too short and I would need to splice.  I'd like to find an exact replacement. I have searched but came up with nothing.  Can anyone suggest a source or point me in the right direction?

Thank you!

[n4joy]

I am guessing a replacement is unobtainiam. 

Perhaps I can use a DPDT switch, square the switch tip, and dremel a slot?

[KD1SH]

I wouldn't be surprised if those toggle switches never existed as off-the-shelf parts, but were custom modified by Lettine on a milling machine.  With some clever fixturing, a bunch of those toggles could be lined up and machined all in one pass.  With a steady hand you could probably roughly duplicate that with a Dremmel.  Or, with a steady hand and a magnifier light or microscope, toggle switches can sometimes be disassembled, cleaned, and returned to functionality.  Finding an exact replacement is probably impossible other than in another Lettine.

[WBear2GCR]

I am guessing a replacement is unobtainiam. 

Perhaps I can use a DPDT switch, square the switch tip, and dremel a slot?

You'd want a switch that is identical in terms of bat length (not shape) and angle
for the throw... then a steady hand and a dremel with an abrasive cutoff wheel.

best to put masking tape around the bat base to keep the abrasive out.

Why can't you just put in a single 3PDT??
Can you see any reason that they did not? (voltage?)

Also, take a close look at the construction - remove the switch. Some had
screws holding the bakelite tub to the switch plate... if riveted, they can be
drilled out. Then they can be replaced by #2 or #3 size screws and nuts.

So, open up the switch and see what happened inside.

Sometimes it can be repaired, sometimes new parts can be had off a donor
switch... etc.

The spliced wires, or replaced wires ought not be a deterrent. Imho.

[n4joy]

Thanks all.  I disassembled the switch this morning.  I drilled out two rivets and it came apart nicely.  The contacts were definitely worn and the inside was filled with what appears to be a brownish dried lubricant--the wear was extreme enough that no contact was being made.

I searched for a heavy duty 3PDT on-on toggle switch with the right dimensions and it was surprisingly more difficulty than expected.  I found plenty of 3PDT on-off-on switches but no on-on 3PDT switches with solder style lugs in stock.  Fortunately, eBay came to the rescue.  This switch is large enough and deep enough that it will allow the leads to reach without splicing.

[Donnie SWL]

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/137517/ELEC-55031420.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI57abi6Ho5wIVh6DsCh3xGQ6cEAQYBSABEgL4mPD_BwE

would these work ?

[W2JBL]

Try Newark Electronics. They still have stuff like that. The one in my Lettine 130 is good. I need a schematic for the transmitter though, so I can restore it, and undo all the "mods" I did to it as a teenager. It was my first plate modulated rig. I made opening night with the Lettine on 160 (Loran restricitions lifted) with Timtron on 1885 and later used it on 200 meters- 1610, but that's another story.

[n4joy]

Thanks for recommending Newark.  They have a great selection of switches.  I found a SPST and DPDT switch that would work if I cut a slit in the actuator.  I have a 3PDT coming in, but may order the two switches to see if they can be modified to fit the original assembly.  I am just trying to keep things original as the 130 is relatively rare.

I spent several years looking for a manual/schematic.  If you need high quality photos of the underside, just let me know.  I simply do not have the time to draw up schematics for it.

Chris