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Author Topic: Suggestions WTD- Tap and Die Set  (Read 8837 times)
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Carl WA1KPD
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« on: March 28, 2016, 03:49:09 PM »

I want to get a small tap and die set for use with various ham related projects. Think pannel screw holes screws for sockets, threaded lugs etc. Nothing big, no pipe threading. Ive never bought or used one, does anyone have a suggestion of a particular kit that will work?
Thank and 73
Carl WA1KPD
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Carl

"Okay, gang are you ready to play radio? Are you ready to shuffle off the mortal coil of mediocrity? I am if you are." Shepherd
KL7OF
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« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2016, 05:05:54 PM »

If all you want to do is panels and thin stuff....There is a tool made by KLEIN that looks like a screwdriver but will tap  6 different machine screw threads....It was designed for electricians  to use for cleaning up previously threaded holes, but it works well on panel stuff ...One of the most important parts of drilling and tapping is the drilling...It is very important to have the correct size drill bit...good luck
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Carl WA1KPD
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« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2016, 05:20:29 PM »

Thank you
I will look for that. Is there a similar tool made for cutting threads on stock say for a small antenna?
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Carl

"Okay, gang are you ready to play radio? Are you ready to shuffle off the mortal coil of mediocrity? I am if you are." Shepherd
N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2016, 05:32:16 PM »



  Hey Carl,

     We do a lot of that at work. Taping 3/16" thick
aluminum for 4-40, 6-32 and 8-32. The correct drill
sizes are 3/32, 7/64 and 1/8 inch respectively for
good threads in "Aluminum".  There is a lubricant
called "Tap Magic" that will save you from breaking
the smaller taps.

    At work we just chuck the tap into a drill.
of course the drill Must have a slow speed and
reverse capability.

  GL

/Dan


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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2016, 05:38:04 PM »

Tap Drill Chart:
https://www.physics.ncsu.edu/pearl/Tap_Drill_Chart.html
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KJ4OLL
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« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2016, 05:47:45 PM »

Hi,
I use PEM nuts for sheet Aluminum.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pem-style-nuts/=11qng0u

There are so many types and sizes of taps and dies, I just buy what I need, the kits have lots of sizes that I never used.
Seem to use more metric these days than SAE.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHI?PMSECT=516


73
Frank
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KD6VXI
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« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2016, 07:23:42 PM »

Klein,  Dottie and other make combo drill / taps.   You need a slow drill,  but that helps save your bits,  too.   Also,  with a combo,  you don't have to keep an assortment of bits matching the taps handy.

The ones us electricians use are all SAE threaded.   As someone else said,  I'm finding myself using metric a lot more

PEM nuts rock,  too.   

--Shane
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KA2DZT
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« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2016, 08:26:30 PM »

You can buy a small set of taps with the correct drill sizes.  1/4-20 use a #7 drill, 10-32 use a #21 drill, 8-32 use a #29 drill, 6-32 use a #36 drill, 4-40 use a #43 drill.  Forget using an electric drill to tap.  Use a T handle tap wrench, usually one will come with a tap set.  Tapping threads can be tricky, you tap a few turns and then you have back up a bit to clear the tap.  You can't force the tap or you'll break it.  Soft aluminum will clog the tap and you'll break it if you force it too much.
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K7LYF
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« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2016, 09:19:47 PM »

With aluminum use a lubricant such as WD40, CRC5-56 or......
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w1vtp
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« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2016, 10:22:31 PM »

Remember 1/4 turn in, 1/2 turn out to break the chip, then advance to the next 1/4 turn etc.  If you don't break the chip you will be in deep do do
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2016, 11:54:51 PM »

Also, the thickness of the material you're tapping into and the type of material you're tapping into, are determining factors as to what size drill bit you should use to drill the tap hole. I have two drill bit holders. Drills #1 to #80 are in one holder and 1/16 to 1/2 (in 1/64 increments) are in the other holder. Use the right tool for the job. I always use a T-Handle tap wrench when making tap holes. Provides a lot more control. Too easy to snap a tap with an electric drill even at slow speed.

I've also used PEM's many times. I think I have PEM fasteners from 4-40 to at least 1/4 -20 threads in various depths (depends on the thickness and type of the material). PEM standoffs are also handy to use especially if you want to mount a PWB directly above a metal plate.
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« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2016, 01:09:53 AM »

Interesting side note,  most often we call drills - drill bits.  But, they are correctly called drills.  Drills drill holes, bits bore holes.  We all know of a tool called a bit brace.  Bit braces are used to bore holes, usually in wood.
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MikeKE0ZUinkcmo
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« Reply #12 on: March 29, 2016, 07:06:56 AM »

I use a battery powered drill motor with a selectable torque clutch to drill/tap holes.   I've found the process to be MUCH, MUCH faster than doing same with the classic tap handle.   I've found it even works well with 2-56 taps, just start your initial experimentation at the minimum setting using a piece of scrap.
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Mike KE0ZU

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« Reply #13 on: March 29, 2016, 09:51:55 AM »

For a complete set, the chinese imports are probably good enough for most work. That being Harbor Freight, etc...

I think you said tap and die...

The size of the hole required varies with the desired thread depth that results from the cutting of the tap (or the opposite for the die). What size hole you make changes depending on the actual drill and the size hole that results. The outcome of the drilling can be different depending on what the material is, steel, aluminum or plastic.

The other aspect to know something about is the taps themselves. They come in different styles, which do different jobs on different materials... sometimes it is really good to have the right style tap for a particular job and material.

Taps are made from very hard and so brittle steel, so especially in small sizes they like to break off if ur not careful. If you are only "chasing" the threads on an existing hole, not much to worry about.

                      _-_-

PS. for virgin holes to be tapped, you'll want a decent set of numerical drills, get good drills if ur going to work in steel, aluminum can be the cheap imports. The way to go is to drill out to a few sizes under, then go back for the final pass at the desired size before running the tap through. Makes for a clean, straight hole. Drill press is mandatory, in my view, if you want good straight holes.
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« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2016, 04:26:45 PM »

A rule of thumb on tapping. As you turn the tap, if it squeaks in any manner, STOP. You are doing something wrong and you will be upset! Some of wrongs... Wrong drill size, not allowing or backing out the accumulated chips, wrong lubricate (usually do not need it), but I use 30 W motor oil. WD40 is not a lubricate. My 2 cents.

Alan
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