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Author Topic: Cleaning Roller Coils  (Read 4409 times)
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K9PNP
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« on: April 21, 2015, 07:06:21 PM »

I know I saw someplace in the last few years a discussion on cleaning the roller coils like those used in the Viking II.  Tried to search for it multiple ways and couldn't come up with it.

I know somebody has the answer here.

Thanks
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73,  Mitch

Since 1958. There still is nothing like tubes to keep your coffee warm in the shack.

Vulcan Theory of Troubleshooting:  Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
KA0HCP
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2015, 08:22:02 PM »

Dawn dish detergent, warm water and a soft cloth. 
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New callsign KA0HCP, ex-KB4QAA.  Relocated to Kansas in April 2019.
N8ETQ
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Mort


« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2015, 08:46:28 PM »


   Boil with Lemon Juice/Extract..  FB !

/Dan

   I also have FB Baileys Irish cream HB recipe...
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WD8BIL
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« Reply #3 on: April 22, 2015, 09:41:53 AM »

For heavy dirt I toss'em in the dishwasher with regular dishwasher soap. Then do the fine cleaning with toothbrush and rag.
For heavy corrosion vinegar works good too. Rinse well after.
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WBear2GCR
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2015, 01:19:07 PM »


For silver plated, soapy water to remove grease. Tarn-X liquid (or the same stuff by others) via cotton ball & using rubber gloves, well ventilated area. Follow by mild solution of baking soda (neutralize the oxalic acid) and then rinse with water.

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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
WD8BIL
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2015, 01:39:32 PM »

You're right Bear with the Tarn-X. That stuff works great. Again, rinse real good after.

Do not use Tarn-X on switches unless you can rinse with water REAL good. The micro-slime of silver removed will stay on the switch dielectric and cause "shorts" for high voltage stuff. EXample; band switches in a Drake T4X. Ask me........ I know!  Embarrassed
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WA2SQQ
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2015, 02:40:58 PM »

Tarn-X is an acid. I destroyed a valuable coin I dug up with my metal detector. I would not use it on anything that is plated.
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2015, 05:59:54 PM »


Yes, the original formula is an unusual acid... (not sure if it oxalic, think it is something else, have to look it up)  but unless you left the coin in it for a while I'd be quite interested to know how the coin was destroyed by it?

Afaik it removes the least actual silver of all the possible methods...

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WBear2GCR
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2015, 06:28:00 PM »


it's sulfamic acid and thiourea. Use gloves AND ventilation.

Dunno, I like the stuff for getting the black sufides off silver.
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K9PNP
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« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2015, 05:42:50 PM »

Thanks all.  Should work considerably better with the crud gone.
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73,  Mitch

Since 1958. There still is nothing like tubes to keep your coffee warm in the shack.

Vulcan Theory of Troubleshooting:  Once you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.
WU2D
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« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2015, 07:17:01 PM »

I do it in place with NevRDull and a soft cloth. I rotate the coil end to end. I also clean the bar and rotating contact. Afterwards the wire and silver will be mirror smooth and bright but the ceramic may become contaminated with oxide colored oil. In that case you may need to follow up with a toothbrush and soap and water and rinsing to remove the oil.
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