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Author Topic: FUSE LAMP  (Read 6802 times)
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W8UJX
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« on: April 18, 2013, 02:09:40 PM »

Anyone know a part number or source for the Fuse Lamp that is used as a pilot lamp in the S-meter on the Yaesu FT-990?

I found this source but I am not sure this is the correct lamp.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LPFS-12/12V-FUSE-LAMP/3AG/1.html

Thanks,
Jerry, W8UJX since 1954
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2013, 03:21:49 PM »

It's not the correct one. The popular fuse-type lamps of the 70's, 80's, and early 90's were 6, 8, and 12 volts. The fuse-type lamp you require is rated at [from the service manual: 14 volts, 150 ma (Yaesu Part # Q1000075)].

Here is a 14 volt fuse-type lamp source: http://www.bulbtown.com/6615F_MINIATURE_BULB_SF6_6_BASE_p/6615f.htm

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Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
W8UJX
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« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2013, 06:11:43 PM »

Thanks Pete,

I thought I read somewhere that it was a 14 volt lamp.  I have the Service Manual for the 990 on the PC but it is in PDF format and the FIND function doesn't work.  I read through the P/L but could not find the info on the lamp.

I have two FT-990's and I am getting ready to sell one.  I needed to replace the meter lamp.

It is really nice to have a forum like this where someone has the knowledge to help other hams with problems like this.

Thanks a lot guys.  I appreciate it,

Jerry, W8UJX since 1954 
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2013, 09:20:13 PM »

The information is on one of the mechanical drawings.
Fortunately, I have easy to read printed service manuals and never use someone's scanned PDF's.
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Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
W8UJX
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2013, 10:14:29 PM »

Yep, found it in less than a minute after you told me where to look.  Right there it is on page 350, big as day.
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2013, 10:10:44 AM »

modify one and put LEDs in place??
those smt LEDs could be lined up in a row... white are ~3v drop each...
that's 4 -5 pcs... Cheesy

Desolder the end caps, make a narrow strip of PCB material same OD as the glass of the lamp, X acto knife some cuts in the
foil spaced appropriately... tack solder in SMT LED, solder end of little PCB strip to the end barrels... (you might need a solid wire sticking out the end off the PCB), drop some epoxy into the barrel ends to hold solid... instant LED light!

They come in warm white...

Just a thought...

               
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
W2ZE
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« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2013, 10:24:02 AM »

Quote
Desolder the end caps, make a narrow strip of PCB material same OD as the glass of the lamp, X acto knife some cuts in the
foil spaced appropriately... tack solder in SMT LED, solder end of little PCB strip to the end barrels... (you might need a solid wire sticking out the end off the PCB), drop some epoxy into the barrel ends to hold solid... instant LED light!

Or he could save himself the trouble and take Pete's advice Wink (smartass comments done).
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W8UJX
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« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2013, 11:58:36 AM »

I already took Pete's advice.  Ordered them a coupla days after I read Pete's advice.  Tnx Pete. 

The last time I went to the flea market at DeAnza college I saw some white LED's mounted in a plastic strip.  Bright.  Never thought about that idea.

Interersting that there is always a different way to do somethin...... 

Just may buy some the next time I go to the flea market and see how they look in the rig.
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #8 on: April 22, 2013, 03:26:31 PM »

I tried one of those 3 LED strips (got it at a hamfest several years ago) as a dial light for my Kenwood R599D receiver. Had to screw around with a series resistor to drop the voltage and it still looked too white and unnatural. Incandescent and LED lighting for back lighting dials and meters, to me, never looks the same. I stuck with the incandescent. They're cheap and last a log time. I still have working #47 lamps in receivers from 50 years ago.
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Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
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« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2013, 05:14:39 PM »

stick a dioda inline to drop the voltage a bit .  last  long time

klc
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W8UJX
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« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2013, 05:50:28 PM »

Yea, I figgured the white LED might look a little unatural. I might play with a series diode or dropping resistor just to broaden my (wide?) knowledge base.
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2013, 05:57:51 PM »

stick a dioda inline to drop the voltage a bit .  last  long time

klc

My feeling; incandescent lamps can last a long time. Why screw around with LEDs, mounting boards, plastic lens widgets, dropping resistors or diodes when typical lamps for most of our radios are still readily available and affordable. Seems like a make-work exercise.
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Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
W8UJX
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« Reply #12 on: April 22, 2013, 06:37:09 PM »

Yea, it's a make work thing.  I may do it sometime on a rainy day just to see what it looks like and then restore it to stock.  That part of the radio is easy to work on.
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« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2013, 06:40:36 PM »

I've got a a load of 1n4007s....  Got to use 'em somewhere.

Rat shaft gets $2.19 fer 2 bulbs. I'm not going to stop by unless I need free bats.

Droping the voltage on an inkadesent extends the life a hole lot. I got tired of replacing them grain of weat bulbs and started soldering the diodas in.

Yeah, when I need bulbs, I'll get a bunch on line.

Its purple for vhf and yellow for HF harmonics??


klc
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2013, 07:20:26 PM »


so called "white" LEDs come in different "temperatures".
The usual ones are scary blue-white. Good for some stuff, awful for most vintage
rigs.

You want a lower temperature white. They make them.
It can be fairly amber/red shifted. Not bad. Less "white" than a typical home halogen bulb.

                     _-_-bear
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