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Author Topic: Gentle Cleaning Abrasive -- Chalk!!  (Read 4809 times)
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Ed/KB1HYS
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« on: March 10, 2013, 03:06:51 PM »

I was working on a project that required polishing a piece of Acrylic that I had shaped & sanded ending with 400 grit wet dry paper. It looked good but I wanted a better gloss.  Nothing much seemed to work, as it was either much to gritty for me to try, or if it was smooth enough, it did little at all.  Good Ole Toothpaste was as good as it got, and it was very slow.

Hmm...   Looking around the shop I saw a bottle of Chalk Dust, you know, that stuff they put in snap lines to mark the entire side of buildings and such.  Well, I thought, chalk is a mineral, and yet very soft.  What the heck.

So a bit of chalk dust, and a tiny amount of oil (WD-40) to make a slightly pasty mess and after a bit of work with a soft rag, the part was positively glossy!  Came off pretty easy too, hot water and dish soap.  Threw on a coating of Pledge Furniture Polish to keep that shine going and done.

This might help folks with meter faces or other parts that are not metal but need to shine up, probably put a mirror finish on Aluminum if you wanted though.  I wouldn't use it on Bakelite, with out a test.  Use with a Q-tip for hard to reach places.  Chuck the Q-tip in a dremel if your impatient (wear eye protection, it'll sling about a bit!)

Oh, and don't worry, that lovely Blue color will wash off your hands eventually, or you could just leave it on, and tell folks you work in the portable toilet business... after you shake hands.  Shocked
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73 de Ed/KB1HYS
Happiness is Hot Tubes, Cold 807's, and warm room filling AM Sound.
 "I've spent three quarters of my life trying to figure out how to do a $50 job for $.50, the rest I spent trying to come up with the $0.50" - D. Gingery
Tom WA3KLR
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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2013, 03:17:55 PM »

I had a HP608 generator meter face years ago that was frosted and crazed.  I buffed it with automotive polishing compound and it turned out quite good.  I originally thought that the damage would be deeper into the face but gave the automotive compound a try.  Obviously since it all came out it was only on the surface.
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73 de Tom WA3KLR  AMI # 77   Amplitude Modulation - a force Now and for the Future!
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« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2013, 03:27:07 PM »

Great tip on the blue marking chalk, Ed.

Keep in mind the orange stuff is permanent..and will stay on your hands for some time.  I wonder just how I know this?

I just told people I beat up the great pumpkin....

73DG
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« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2013, 09:40:08 PM »



Neat!
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
w8fax
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« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2013, 10:04:24 PM »

We use Johnson Baby Powder to finish polishing in the shop. Of course, it is ONLY good for finishing and will not take out scratches and so forth. We use it with a little water, or sometimes kerosene if we are polishing aluminum (as in aluminum wheels).
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KU8L
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2013, 10:34:10 AM »

For future reference:

Wet-or Dry sheet abrasive, AKA sandpaper, can be had in grades at least to 2000 grit.  Good autobody supply place will have it as will grainger and MSC I think.  I use normal up to 600grit, then 1000, 1200, 1800--that is usually far enough--especially for plastic that "flows" when polished. 

Be very careful with sensitive meter faces and machine buffing wheels...they can generate enough static to blow the meter.

THere are additionally, cloth-backed wet abrasives that go to 10,000 grit.  I have a kit sold to remove crazing on aircraft canopies that is amazing stuff.  THink I got it from Aircraft Spruce and Supply Co.  Lasts for years.

FWIW

Curt

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W1RKW
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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2013, 06:39:15 PM »

Novus
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Bob
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« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2013, 06:47:09 PM »

For future reference:

There are additionally, cloth-backed wet abrasives that go to 10,000 grit.  I have a kit sold to remove crazing on aircraft canopies that is amazing stuff.  Think I got it from Aircraft Spruce and Supply Co.  Lasts for years.
FWIW
Curt

Wonder if that stuff will work on faded plastic headlight lenses.  Conversely, the lens polishing kits they sell should work well on acrylic I would think.
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Chris, AJ1G
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« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2013, 10:50:26 PM »


For headlights I have done well with first some Bab-O, Bon Ami,  or similar non chlorine cleanser. Lacking that, wet sand with 800 grit or finer.  Followed by automotive buffing compound, then automotive polishing compound. I use soft cloth. If you automated it with an electric buffing bonnet, even bettah. Does the job zippity quick.

                 _-_-bear
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KM1H
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« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2013, 12:30:39 PM »

Ive been using Meguiars Mirror Glaze Plastic cleaning and polishing liquids for decades, really works on plastic meter and dial faces. One bottle of each lasts about 10 years.

My GF picked up Turtle Wax Headlight Lens Restorer and that stuff is bitchin but time consuming as its a multi step process.

Carl

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