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Author Topic: Additional suggestions?How to properly clean oxidation off of aluminum elements.  (Read 5443 times)
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n2len
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« on: August 15, 2012, 02:52:41 PM »

Hello Everyone,

Today I acquired a used Mosley Classic 33 and am reconditioning it to re-install it next year. 
No rust, All of the hardware appears to be in good shape just oxidation.
I am looking for any additional suggestions on how to easily remove the oxidation from the elements. The gentleman I purchased the antenna from had ordered new plastic trap caps and end caps. I am not too concerned about the look of the antenna, but being that it is disassembled anyway figured to make it shiny and treat it with some type of protective coating so it lasts. I used Nevrdull and Navel Jelly for cleaning metal applications before with some elbow grease. Someone mentioned Aluma-jel never tried it.

I am curious about using a protective coating, like MOSLEY Weather-Guard etc...
Also looking for suggestions on that product or similar.

From the Mosley site...
Frequently it is asked, "How can I clean my MOSLEY antenna system?", or "How can I remove
MOSLEY Weather-Guard from my antenna?" MOSLEY Weather-Guard can only be removed
with sandpaper or steel wool. When the trap type antennas are sanded or steel wool used, care
should be exercised to see that small bits of aluminum dust or wool bits do not get into the trap
coils and short them out. MOSLEY Weather-Guard, when properly applied, is a permanent
protection and seldom needs to be removed. Usually a good cleaning will remove dirt.
To remove oxidation and corrosion from the aluminum components, Mosley recommends using
either a double 00 or a triple 000 grade steel wheel. With a little elbow grease, the aluminum can
be brought back to its original luster. Also, a good cleaning agent that can be used is Tri-Sodium
Phosphate, (1/2 cup per gallon of water). This is a high detergent cleaning agent. A solution of
vinegar and water can be substituted as well. Care should also be exercised to keep this out of
the trap assemblies. When finished, thoroughly rinse with clean water ALL portions of the
antenna. BE CAREFUL TO KEEP SOLUTION OUT OF THE TRAP ASSEMBLIES.
A MOSLEY anti-corrosion compound is available and should be used on all electrical connections
except on terminating wires on the trap assemblies. It is very effective and, when used properly,
will prevent corrosion or oxidation of metals.

Thanks,
Len
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2012, 03:05:33 PM »

the only places that need to be cleaned are inside overlapping joints.
Then coat with NO-OX. Don't waste your time with exposed metal
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KA0HCP
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« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2012, 03:55:33 PM »

For general cleaning of aluminum a scotch-brite pad and soapy water is adequate.  The generic kitchen types are fine.  Scotch-brite pads of various grades are often used in aviation.  Steel wool should never be used on aluminum since it may embed particles in the aluminum causing accelerated dissimilar metal corrosion.

Alumiprep-33 is used for serious cleaning before painting or chemical conversion coatings such as Alodine (a chromium conversion).  Alumiprep-33 is a phosphoric acid cleaner.  Both are [truly] hazardous chemicals which may be restricted in disposal. They are available from paint suppliers and aviation parts houses like Aircraft Spruce.

My recommendation is cleaning with scotch-brite pads and soapy water.  For spot removal of bad corrosion use aluminum oxide (black) sandpaper and water, then spray coat exposed surfaces with Krylon Clear Acrylic or equivalent for extended protection.  My favorite joint conductive compound is GB Oxgard from the hardware store.
 
bill
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n2len
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« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2012, 04:40:10 PM »

Thanks for the replies...Scotch-brite seems to be the way to go.

Spraying with clear Krylon is no problem either and NO-OX and or GB Oxgard.
It appears that from looking at the antenna, the weak weather beaten parts are the plastic trap caps.
I guess they simply dry out and crack from temperature change (expanding and contracting). The new ones are rather soft plastic and somewhat flimsy, probably to slightly expand for a tight fit over the element and trap ends, same material are the end caps.

Can they be covered with a layer of thermal silicone for protection as well?
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2012, 07:44:44 PM »

you might be able to buy new plastic end caps.
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W1ATR
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« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2012, 08:18:35 PM »

Napa carries, or used to carry, a product called Aluma-Kleen. Spray it on, and rub it out. I have a 10m ground plane I did 2 years ago and it still looks like new. If the surface isn't all scratched up or anything, then I wouldn't go hammering it with a scotchbrite just yet. The rough surface left behind gets dark 10 times faster.

In the electrical section at home cheapo, there's a product made by Ideal called Noalox that you can use at the joints. It uses zinc particles to cut thru oxidation and maintain a nice connection at the joint that wont lock up over time.

73
J
 
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #6 on: August 15, 2012, 08:21:57 PM »

Don't scrub the aluminum with anything, it has a coating that helps deter oxidation, you remove the rest of it and you will have more problems sooner.  If you want to clean it use pure white vinegar and a rag then coat it according to Mosley's recommendations.  Most clear coats will deterioriate quickly in sunlight, let them tell you what to do, the best alternative is a complete coating of noalox or an anti oxidant that is sold by electrical places.  

Mosley will sell parts for their antennas, including the caps on the traps and even the inserts in each end of the traps individually.  Take out the screw under the cap and pull the coil out to look at it.  If it is cracked or deformed, it will need  a replacement.  They will wind a coil for you.  Remember which end of the trap is input and which coil you need and by giving them the model of the antenna plus the end of the trap they can supply any needed parts.  Look for them on the web and call, they are nice people.
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ke7trp
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« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2012, 11:43:45 AM »

Len.  This product seems to be growing in popularity.  Its expensive, however, you might find you use it in other areas such as wheels, trailers ect..

http://www.eastwood.com/sharkhide-aluminum-protectant-quart.html?srccode=ga130110&gclid=CMaw6K-97LECFQfCKgodRXwABA

I rebuilt my TA53M last year. I ordered new parts from Mosely including all new plastic caps, screws, missing brackets and a full element. Everything showed up in a reasonable amount of time and the cost was not to bad. 

You will love the Beam.  The mosely will take the heat also and is great for AM full legal limit plus. 

Cant wait to hear some boat anchors on the Mosely up on 15 and 20!
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2012, 08:16:03 AM »


You want to use the "stuff" that goes between the sections of elements.

It's pretty much the same as the "stuff" that is sold for aluminum electrical connections.
Otoh, Mosley will likely sell you some.
What is that called? Too early in the AM to recall. Sad

You can do a nice job of cleaning aluminum with just some baking soda.
But I agree with the general advice of not cleaning it to the point of shiny, the oxide layer that has built up protects the aluminum.

Krylon or similar sprays may or may not adhere or last very long when hung up in the air and in the sun.

                        _-_-bear
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2012, 09:27:47 AM »

You want to use the "stuff" that goes between the sections of elements.

It's pretty much the same as the "stuff" that is sold for aluminum electrical connections.
Otoh, Mosley will likely sell you some.
What is that called? Too early in the AM to recall.

The brand name is Noalox or at electrical supply places and hardware stores is can be called Antioxidant and sold in the Electrical section. 
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n2len
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« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2012, 10:05:58 AM »

First off again thanks for the replies. I began the disassemble of each of the traps just for a visual inspection. I was very happy to see that all six traps are in great shape. It seems as though the traps and elements both make for a nice cottage for small critters. Even found a nest in one of the traps. Some mud and dirt, webs, etc...But all in all nothing a little toothbrush and soapy water wont clean up.
Here is what I did find while looking closely at the coils. The original owner must of began a cleanup of one of the traps. He surely used steel wool, looking at that coil assemble I did find several small hairs of the steel wool laying right in between 2 of the coil turns.
So because of this, I will clean up the rest of the antenna and treat with something.
I tried white vinegar on a rag to cleanup one trap casing. No go on removing the tough corrosion. It did remove maybe the first layer of top dirt.
Anyway, The original product that was used in between the sections of the elements made the disassemble easy.
In the bag from Mosley, the original owner paid about $70.00 for replacement traps caps, end caps for the antenna.

Looking on the net, I see that Mosley now makes a WARC kit for the 33, it explains that after you install that it, the 40 meter kit can be installed. Seems interesting...Pretty expensive a upgrade. Maybe can be built home brew cheaper after the traps are acquired.

Again thanks for the replies...
Some quick pics...
And Clarke, I have been following your JV500 thread, wishing you the very best of qso on that beautiful beast!
What a GEM!



* 100_2486.JPG (2473.34 KB, 3000x4000 - viewed 308 times.)

* 100_2489.JPG (2837.77 KB, 4000x3000 - viewed 319 times.)
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2012, 11:44:16 AM »


Len, I'd really not try to get the elements shiny... try the scotchbrite pad + baking soda.

They make the scotchbrite in different "grits" - the auto parts store may carry that.

Gentle cleaning is good.

I also use "Mean Green" you can get it from Family Dollar and Dollar General on aluminum, it is slightly alkaline and
does a pretty good job, should be rinsed after ur done to remove residual.

So consider the scotchbrite + baking soda, followed by the Mean Green + scotchbrite or something lighter, depending on how things look after the first step...

                   _-_-bear

Oh, I did go nutz on some trap barrels some many years ago - chucked them in a lathe, spun and used some aluminum oxide "paper" (actually cloth) to impart a fine spun brushed finish... I did follow up with some varnish dejour at that time... but you can't see all this when it is up on a tower... keep that in mind. All that matters is the electrical and mechanical connections.
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