ke7trp
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« on: February 20, 2012, 12:37:27 PM » |
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I was loading up the T3 on 15 Meter AM yesterday and when I went to turn the Loading crank, I heard a pop and now the crank turns free.
I found the Bellows coupler from the turns counter to the vac cap is broken. This coupler looks like 1/4 on one side and 3/8ths on the other. Its made of brass.
Called around and cant seem to find this part. Anyone have a solution? Gary at Fair radio said he would dig for me but did not have one handy.
I cant use a straight coupler as there is an offset. If anyone has a solution or the coupler, Raise a hand!
I got the deck out, bushings so the assembly turns easier in prep for some kind of part replacement. Might as well check the tubes in the rig while I have the decks out and clean the filter. The rig was going to make it to 15. I had a strong signal from the Exciter on the receiver. I found a dip on the plate. But when I tried to increase loading, the coupler snapped.
Thanks!
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WD5JKO
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« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2012, 01:16:02 PM » |
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Clark,
Can you post a picture of it? So what length span and horizontal offset does it provide?
What about a piece of 3/8 rubber fuel hose and some clamps? :-)
Jim
WD5JKO
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ke7trp
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« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2012, 01:22:42 PM » |
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I feel like an idiot. That sounds like a great solution. I have a Garage full of fuel line and Goodridge hose. I am going to try that Jim!
C
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K5IIA
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« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2012, 06:57:15 PM » |
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The simple answers help the most sometimes.  |
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Be kind, for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle.
73, Brandon K5iia
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ke7trp
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« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2012, 07:17:33 PM » |
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My Friend stopped by and helped me get the deck out while he was here. I will start the work soon.
C
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ke7trp
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« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2012, 07:49:08 PM » |
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Ok. What a PITA. There is only a 1/4 inch space between the shafts. I had to take all the screws out of the large vac cap and side it out. My hands are cut up  The cap is 1/2 inch and the turns counter is 1/4 inch. The difference is to great for hose. Its possible I can get some 1/4 hose inside of a half hose and glue it, then clamp it three times. - vac cap- 1/2 inch hose with clamp-1/4 inch hose inside 1/2 inch hose with clamp, then 1/4 hose and clamp- turns counter. What a rig job. I wish I could get a new coupler. C |
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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2012, 07:56:34 PM » |
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Can you post a picture? I, or someone else, might have the exact piece in our junk box, or at least a usable substitute, but I'm not exactly sure what to look for.
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Don, K4KYV AMI#5 Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM... Never got off AM in the first place.- - - This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout. http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak |
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ke7trp
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« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2012, 08:54:48 PM » |
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Here ya go Don. TFO Dennis stopped by today. We are brainstorming on how to make this work. I emailed a company that stocks bellows. Lets see if they email me back tomorrow. I have to be on the dynomometer all day so I wont have time to call them. https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Pictured is the end of the vac cap which is 1/2 inch. The turns counter is 1/4 inch. The space is 1 and 1/4 overall. The offset is almost nothing. Maybe 1/16th. Also pictured is the broken coupler and the tuning cap bellows which is intact still. C |
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ke7trp
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« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2012, 03:17:46 PM » |
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Anyone? Out of ideas here.
C
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WA8DRZ
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« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2012, 03:30:09 PM » |
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ke7trp
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« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2012, 03:47:45 PM » |
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Not enough flex Jim. It binds. I rigged up something like that before. Over my lunch hour, I found some 1/4 ID hose and some 1/2 inch ID hose. I washed them in soapy watter, then pounded the small line inside the larger line. I also got some clamps from the junk bin. I am going to try to slide the vac cap out, Trim this assembly down and clamp it in place.
I really hate rigging things like this up.
C
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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2012, 04:44:27 PM » |
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I think I have some couplers like that, but don't know if they will fit. I believe one side of yours needs to take a 1/4" shaft and the other a half-inch. I think mine take 1/4" shaft on one side, and the other takes something larger, but I don't think they go to 1/2" size. I'll look and see what I have.
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Don, K4KYV AMI#5 Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM... Never got off AM in the first place.- - - This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout. http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak |
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KC2FXE
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« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2012, 05:24:40 PM » |
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Hi ;
try this is what i used from (surplus center .com )
hope this helps.
73 John kc2fxe
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John L.Ahrens Sr.
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W2PFY
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« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2012, 11:03:02 PM » |
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I think the type of coupler John FXE is using is a LoveJoy coupler. I couldn't remember the type when I visited John but that is the one he is using. Google them.
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The secrecy of my job prevents me from knowing what I am doing.
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ke7trp
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« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2012, 11:15:18 PM » |
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The collars are too long for the t3.
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2012, 09:11:18 AM » |
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The collars are too long for the t3.
Can they be machined down? One nice thing about Lovejoy couplings is that you can mix and match the ends to get whatever sizes you need. (and they're cheap) Then machine a little off of each end to shorten it up a bit. You can also machine a little off of the center spider and the prongs to make the whole assembly shorter. It's a piece of cake to do. They are made of sintered iron and machine very easily. |
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"No is not an answer and failure is not an option!"
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ke7trp
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« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2012, 09:28:53 AM » |
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I might try that frank. A good friend has a machine shop in town. Thanks
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2012, 09:34:56 AM » |
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I might try that frank. A good friend has a machine shop in town. Thanks
Clark, ANYONE who has a lathe can do it, it shouldn't take them more that 10 minutes to do it, it's a simple job. Also, if you cant get one with a 1/4" hole, see if you can get a blank, unfinished one. The 1/2" side is a common electric motor shaft size |
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"No is not an answer and failure is not an option!"
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Donnie SWL
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« Reply #19 on: February 22, 2012, 11:10:40 AM » |
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Clark
I had the same problem before here's what i did..I took the shaft out of the cap an put about 3 nuts on it so i would not bother the threads an stuck it in the drill press...I thought i would take a flat file an bring it down to a 1/4 inch.....Well when it got to almost 1/4 i noticed the meltal was changing colors an a big chunk of the end came off.....well i didn't get as long of a shaft as i thought but their was still enough for a normal 1/4 to 1/4 coupler to fit..Oh also i left a little amount of the 1/2 inch their so it would still ride in the cap on the bearing ok....Don't know if this helps but that was my fix....
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ke7trp
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« Reply #20 on: February 22, 2012, 11:19:11 AM » |
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That might be the real solution here. Thanks for posting man. I am going to unscrew the front of the cap. I am told the 1/2 inch shaft just unscrews. Then I can have my buddy mill it down to 1/4
C
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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #21 on: February 22, 2012, 12:14:23 PM » |
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That might be the real solution here. Thanks for posting man. I am going to unscrew the front of the cap. I am told the 1/2 inch shaft just unscrews. Then I can have my buddy mill it down to 1/4
C
Before milling all the way down to 1/4", see if you can come up with a coupling that will accommodate a 3/8" shaft. 1/4 to 3/8" couplings are very commonly used in a lot of equipment. I'll look and see what I have here, particularly at the ones that appear identical to what broke on yours. A bushing with set screws will grip a 3/8" shaft much more positively than it will a 1/4" shaft, and milling down only to 3/8" is less likely to cause this sort of damage: I took the shaft out of the cap an put about 3 nuts on it so i would not bother the threads an stuck it in the drill press...I thought i would take a flat file an bring it down to a 1/4 inch.....Well when it got to almost 1/4 i noticed the metal was changing colors an a big chunk of the end came off... |
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Don, K4KYV AMI#5 Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM... Never got off AM in the first place.- - - This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout. http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak |
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Donnie SWL
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« Reply #22 on: February 22, 2012, 12:51:44 PM » |
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Don i've also seen them with a bolt of the same threads with two nuts locked together an a washer then cut the the head of the bolt off.....an make sure that it's not longer than the original that goes into the cap...A little grease on the washer an nuts never hurts...an that will also give you 1/4 to 1/4 coupling...
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #23 on: February 22, 2012, 01:14:55 PM » |
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Dont forget that the 1/4" threaded internal "shaft" on a vacuuuuum variable doesn't turn. The threaded "overshaft" screws down on it and pulls the inner shaft out as you turn the outer shaft. The cap changes value by pulling in and out on the bellows and internal plates. You dont want to turn the inner 1/4" screw or you'll break the seal.
It is better to try to leave the 1/2" outer shaft intact if possible. If you are going to turn it down, I wouldn't go much below 3/8".
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"No is not an answer and failure is not an option!"
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Ott
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« Reply #24 on: February 22, 2012, 04:24:53 PM » |
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I noticed you still have the brass end bells from the existing coupling... you might be able to clean them up enough to solder some copper tubing of a close diameter and length between them and... with a number of cuts from a hack saw, partially relieve the tubing every 90 degrees across its diameter weakening it enough to allow it to flex... if successful you would have a part that fits the existing shafts more or less as B&W intended while waiting for Fair to find you the correct part...
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