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Author Topic: Breadboarding Tubes  (Read 8535 times)
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KX5JT
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John-O-Phonic


« on: December 12, 2010, 11:31:29 PM »

Where can I find sockets for mounting tubes on wood?  See the picture from Jack K9ACT that I have attached.  (I haven't seen Jack around here in a while)

I would LOVE to find sockets to mount 811A's, 813's etc etc for experimenting before final chassis work.

Alternatively, any suggestions on doing this if these vintage sockets can not be found?

John KX5JT


* 811bb.jpg (43.05 KB, 500x362 - viewed 533 times.)
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KA0HCP
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« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2010, 12:44:38 AM »

Mount the sockets on standoffs!
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KX5JT
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John-O-Phonic


« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2010, 12:56:39 AM »

I'm going to use standoffs for the miniature tubes, but I sure like the look/utility of those larger sockets.
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K5WLF
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« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2010, 07:28:34 AM »

John,

I see those sockets at the 'fests from time to time. Usually in the boxes under the edge of the table.

ldb
K5WLF
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2010, 08:51:59 AM »

A.E.S. (tubes and more.com) used to carry chinese knock offs of the old big porcelain sockets. So did RF Parts. I bought a few of the big porcelain 4-pin sockets from AES a few years back. (Go figger, I gave a bunch of them away, then had to go out and buy some to finish a project!)
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« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2010, 09:08:44 AM »

J,

Safety is our motto

I like yer masonite panel fer yer breadbord work.. I'd just tape the meter to the board and be don with it..... 

klc
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Todd, KA1KAQ
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« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2010, 09:09:09 AM »

There are three different sizes of the porcelain and metal bayonet bass that come to mind immediately, John. The 811/572 size shown above, the larger 810/845 size, and another 'jumbo' socket which you probably won't need for large rectifiers and other beastly tubes. You can find the smaller two most days on ebay for a few bucks or as Slab says, AES was selling them last time I looked too. There are also mil surplus versions of the middle sized socket available that aren't quite as large or purty, but they function fine. They were used in rigs like the BC-375/191 etc. and were actually designed to be mounted below the chassis.

Never seen one for the 813, only the plain porcelain flat base that mounts with stand offs or a metal version for mounting below the chassis. If you wanted to box the sides of your board allowing a few inches clearance beneath, you could bore a hole and recess the socket which would not only look kinda cool, it would bring the taller tubes more in line height-wise with something like an 811 mounted on the board above.
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Ed/KB1HYS
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« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2010, 12:18:28 PM »

I've run wood 'rails' about 3/4x3/4 square across breadboards to screw various sockets to in leu of having the surface mount socket.  Works ok, but does make it a little tough to get at some of the pins.
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73 de Ed/KB1HYS
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Todd, KA1KAQ
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« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2010, 03:34:40 PM »

That sounds like a pretty slick approach too, Ed. Especially for the sockets that utilize two 'ears' for screwing or riveting to a chassis. Depending on the application, you could just leave a bit of slack in the wires to lift it up the socket easily for repairs or changes beneath.
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W2PFY
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« Reply #9 on: December 13, 2010, 05:04:33 PM »

Quote
Mount the sockets on standoffs!



At Home Depot go to the hardware section and you will find plastic spacers. They also have plastic screws & nuts. Probably Lowe's would have them as well.
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« Reply #10 on: December 13, 2010, 05:39:15 PM »

I'm going to use standoffs for the miniature tubes, but I sure like the look/utility of those larger sockets.

Use larger standoffs!
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« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2010, 07:32:21 PM »

John,

There's a ton of ceramic 813 sockets on eBay most of the time made in Asia. I bought some from these guys a few years ago and they are just as good as any I've seen. Standard ceramic and good pins.  About $9 each new.
The shipping was "free."

Check:

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=813+sockets&_sacat=See-All-Categories

T
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« Reply #12 on: December 13, 2010, 11:36:27 PM »

A few years back I was playing with an amp and had no socket for the ancient tube I was using.  And, being cheap I hated to pay retail.  Ran 2  parallel 1" thick pieces of wood spaced just over the diameter of the tube base.  Clamped the tube base with a homebrew clamp similar to those used to hold down large metal case electrolytics.  Used some old pin connectors from broken tube sockets to make a tube socket without the actual socket; just the pin connectors.  Ended up using alligator clips for the filament connections due to lack of the right size pin connectors for them.  Worked good for a the short time I had it set up.
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73,  Mitch

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« Reply #13 on: December 15, 2010, 07:51:35 AM »

Building on wood is cheap, fun, fast and a throwback and did I mention cheap?

I have found that getting good performance on wood is sometimes easier and sometimes harder. Suffice it to say that just because something works on wood does not mean it will not need adjustment when you move from breadboard to a steel or aluminum chassis with good grounding and interstage shielding.

Even those single tube 1929 Hartleys and regens in general do quite well on a wood base as the coil Q is not disturbed by nearby metal, but they all work better (more stably and with less tendency for parasitics) if the craftsman sneaks a ground plane under the deck where nobody can see it.

Mike WU2D


* Jones_6N7_WU2D.jpg (602.99 KB, 3304x2132 - viewed 447 times.)
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« Reply #14 on: December 15, 2010, 09:26:05 AM »

Tubes on boards rule!  My attempt at a replica of 1936 Frank Jones 6A6 pp oscillator xmtr.  5 watts out....works great...made many contacts.

73,  Jack, W9GT



* 6a6ppboard2.jpg (85.02 KB, 800x600 - viewed 403 times.)
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73, Jack, W9GT
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« Reply #15 on: December 15, 2010, 09:30:46 AM »

Another shot of the 6A6 on a poplar board.

73,  Jack, W9GT


* 6a6ppboard3.jpg (88.65 KB, 800x600 - viewed 389 times.)
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Tubes and Black Wrinkle Rule!!
73, Jack, W9GT
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« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2010, 11:26:06 AM »

All you two need now is an old Ocean Hopper or a little HB receiver and you're set!  Grin

I love the old HB gear built on wood. Especially the multi-deck units built in the 4 post cabinet or open rack style. One of the fellows down here has a transmitter that uses old AK dials on reddish-brown composite board panels, looks fab. He's been bringing it back to life slowly over the last couple years.

W1PEG built a number of transmitters in both metal racks and wooden boxed open chassis. One of his wooden examples went through the AWA auction down here last spring and I've got another still stored up north, along with a pair of his 6 ft rack jobs here.

The only thing I have on wood right now is a receiver. Can't take credit for design or building, only the restoration back in the 80s. Hoping to finally have it receiving again this winter. The advantage to the open board design with binding posts is the ability to tap or replace existing coils to extend or change coverage. Should be able to cover 160 with this one. Gives good insight into the 1920s approach before cabinets and chassis became popular.



* Radiodyne_1.JPG (452.48 KB, 1200x1600 - viewed 397 times.)
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« Reply #17 on: December 15, 2010, 11:31:37 PM »

T,
Armchair copy??
klc
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