I couldn't help myself!...Does anybody have a manual for a Gates BC-1J?

[KB5MD]

Greg, I mailed you a schematic for the Gates today along with a schematic of the 6L6 p-p driver that I use to drive my 833a's with.  If the existing balanced audio amp and drivers turn out to not work, the 6L6 setup will give you lots of audio.  The Gates schmatic is a bit tattered but it will get the job done, I used it.  Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if I can help out again.   

[N0WEK]

Greg, I mailed you a schematic for the Gates today along with a schematic of the 6L6 p-p driver that I use to drive my 833a's with.  If the existing balanced audio amp and drivers turn out to not work, the 6L6 setup will give you lots of audio.  The Gates schmatic is a bit tattered but it will get the job done, I used it.  Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if I can help out again.   

Thanks very much!

I think I'll try to get it running as is and then see about modifications; hopefully the original drivers work OK for the moment.

Greg

[N0WEK]

To get rid of the bolts poking thru the bottom, just thread a nut on the bolt first, screw the bolt in a few turns then jamb the nut to tighten the iron down.  It's not likely you'll be tipping the thing over once the iron is in place!

Something to be careful of....   I went overboard when I put casters on an RCA BTA-1 I had - 4" industrial monsters.  It rolled very easy - too easy.  I had it in my garage & the floor was gently sloped toward a center drain.  Not so much fun chasing 1100 pounds across the floor.

Last thing - I always worried about tripping and falling into the backside when I was 'playing' with the interlocks bypassed.  Keep the floor clear of wires, tools, meters, etc.  Mine invariably turned into a rats nest when I was working on the conversion.

Have fun!

73, Bill   N2BC

That should work, I could probably cut them off or buy shorter ones too.

I can tell that they've been bypassing the interlocks for years, there is quite a bit of duct tape residue around them.

I'll check out available casters tomorrow.

[WB3LEQ]

I think if I was going for casters again I'd get a set of the $60 steel wheeled set of vehicle dollies from Harbor Freight and use the wheels.  8 cast iron wheels with the capacity of 250 lb per wheel would be great and cast iron wheels roll easier on concrete than the poly ones. These however would not be a good idea for use on a wooden floor.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-vehicle-dollies-67511.html

[k4kyv]

Rather than casters, I use three 1" diameter pipes or better still, wooden dowel rods, each one a few inches  longer than the depth or width of the transmitter.  Lay them down next to the transmitter, raise one side of the rig off the floor enough to slide one under the edge, then repeat same under the other edge, and try to shove that one as far under the rig as possible.  Sometimes a couple of "wonder bars" work for initially lifting up one edge of the TX off the floor, and for raising the other edge enough to shove the rod towards the balance point.  Then push the transmitter, and as soon as possible, insert the 3rd rod under the tx.  Keep on moving the one that the rig leaves behind to the forward edge in the direction of where you are moving it, so that there are at least 2 rods under the TX at all times. I have moved a couple of 1000 lb+ transmitters that way.  Just be careful of your fingers and toes!

[Mike/W8BAC]

I move my 1,175 pound anchor using Don's method. With the iron out it still tips the scale at close to 800 pounds. I used 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe. It's just the normal, off the shelf water pipe available everywhere. Four sections cut 8" wider than the rig made placement easy and safety issues covered. Turning was easy as well but not on a dime. The PVC is strong enough. The 20V-3 base has a sheet metal skirt on the outer edge only with a flange of about .750". No other support in the center but the load didn't flex the pipe at all. The pipe measures 1.300" OD with a wall thickness of .150"

Once in place I made a 2"X2" mitered frame for the transmitter to sit on since the pass thorough for cables is at the rear, bottom of the cabinet. I left a gap of 6" at the rear of the wooden 2"X2"s for cables and ground to exit.

If your move is tricky try building a scale model and practice first to work out the interferences. My move was onto a deck, under an awning, up a step through the back door, up another step, turn down a step and down the stairs. Using 2"X2"s and lots of screws I built a skeleton but it didn't have enough rigidity. Adding some eyelets and leftover Dacron rope to triangulate the model produced a light weight, rigid, manageable template for practice. Have a look here http://w8bac.com/20v3.html for more on the move. No photos of the model unfortunately.

Your move is just around the garage I guess Greg so you don't need all of the above. If casters are the choice make something that resembles those tire dolly's. Keep the load as close to the floor as possible. Stay away from a cart with casters below the cart especially if all four casters turn. A cart with 4 large turning casters (say 3" tall wheels) below the cart can make a dangerous tipping hazard. When all four wheels are turned in the same direction it shifts the weight by the amount of caster pivot to axle distance and over she goes. Slip/K7YOO built a steel frame for a complete Collins 21-E. Picture 3 BC transmitters lined up in a row! The boxes sit in frames no more than 2" off the floor with turning casters cantilevered at the corners. Strong, stable and safe. Use casters with toe brakes so you don't find it over the drain again. "C" clamps work in a pinch. Also, think about parking the rig with one side facing the wall so you can get in any time you need to. It might not be pretty but you can work on it.

Have fun, don't get hurt. Safety interlocks can be a pain but they will keep you alive!

Mike 

[N0WEK]

Rather than casters, I use three 1" diameter pipes or better still, wooden dowel rods, each one a few inches  longer than the depth or width of the transmitter.  Lay them down next to the transmitter, raise one side of the rig off the floor enough to slide one under the edge, then repeat same under the other edge, and try to shove that one as far under the rig as possible.  Sometimes a couple of "wonder bars" work for initially lifting up one edge of the TX off the floor, and for raising the other edge enough to shove the rod towards the balance point.  Then push the transmitter, and as soon as possible, insert the 3rd rod under the tx.  Keep on moving the one that the rig leaves behind to the forward edge in the direction of where you are moving it, so that there are at least 2 rods under the TX at all times. I have moved a couple of 1000 lb+ transmitters that way.  Just be careful of your fingers and toes!

I've used that in the past to move heavy stuff and it works well but I need something to be able to move it to get at adjustments and test points. If I could place it somewhere where I could get to both sides of the transmitter it be would best.

As soon as I gather a crew the Gates is headed for the basement; I'm now down to just the cabinet, a few caps, the relays and the switch panel (not very heavy but a bear to pull out and replace). I've got a side door to the basement stair landing and a tight turn but it should go OK. Once in the basement I can remount the RF and Mod decks and wrap it in plastic until the shack is done, hopefully this winter.

I did manage to find locally, two new in the boxes, GE 8008 MV rectifiers and two monster bread slicers (60-200 pf w/ 1/2" spacing and 55-350 pf w/ 1/4" spacing) for a grand total of $80.00, tubes guaranteed to be good.



The bread slicers either go into a monster tuna or into the output circuits of the Gates.

[w5dud]

Hello Greg nice looking J, I had one and converted it to 75, Traded it to Howard Mills with the Org, Manual, Call Howard I bet he would make you a copy, Have fun with the J, Dudley/W5DUD

[N0WEK]

I

Once in place I made a 2"X2" mitered frame for the transmitter to sit on since the pass thorough for cables is at the rear, bottom of the cabinet. I left a gap of 6" at the rear of the wooden 2"X2"s for cables and ground to exit.

If your move is tricky try building a scale model and practice first to work out the interferences. My move was onto a deck, under an awning, up a step through the back door, up another step, turn down a step and down the stairs. Using 2"X2"s and lots of screws I built a skeleton but it didn't have enough rigidity. Adding some eyelets and leftover Dacron rope to triangulate the model produced a light weight, rigid, manageable template for practice. Have a look here http://w8bac.com/20v3.html for more on the move. No photos of the model unfortunately.

Your move is just around the garage I guess Greg so you don't need all of the above. If casters are the choice make something that resembles those tire dolly's. Keep the load as close to the floor as possible. Stay away from a cart with casters below the cart especially if all four casters turn. A cart with 4 large turning casters (say 3" tall wheels) below the cart can make a dangerous tipping hazard. When all four wheels are turned in the same direction it shifts the weight by the amount of caster pivot to axle distance and over she goes. Slip/K7YOO built a steel frame for a complete Collins 21-E. Picture 3 BC transmitters lined up in a row! The boxes sit in frames no more than 2" off the floor with turning casters cantilevered at the corners. Strong, stable and safe. Use casters with toe brakes so you don't find it over the drain again. "C" clamps work in a pinch. Also, think about parking the rig with one side facing the wall so you can get in any time you need to. It might not be pretty but you can work on it.

Have fun, don't get hurt. Safety interlocks can be a pain but they will keep you alive!

Mike 

Mike

All good advice, thanks!

I like the pictures of the move and I've got something like your antenna system in mind.

I'm really hoping to find a position for the Gates that will let me keep it in one place, while allowing access to both sides; I'm hoping to do the same for the BC-610E but that is smaller and has casters under a heavy angle iron base.

I'll probably skip the casters and just put it on the floor until I get to finishing the shack and then see if they're needed.

I'm still thinking Pi outputs for 160 and 80, maybe using those bread slicers.

Anybody have advice on that?

[N0WEK]

Hello Greg nice looking J, I had one and converted it to 75, Traded it to Howard Mills with the Org, Manual, Call Howard I bet he would make you a copy, Have fun with the J, Dudley/W5DUD

Thanks, I'll check it out.

I've got a copy of the manual in PDF (which I printed out) and a full size schematic on the way, courtesy of Roy KB5MD.

Do you remember what you did with the output circuits when you converted it? I don't want to change the outside appearance if I don't have to, but I'll need some frequency agility when it's converted.

[John K5PRO]

Fun spacious transmitter! My first radio job was at WCKM in south carolina while in high school. They had a BC500J, same cabinet, one 833 in RF I think. It was cool to have modulator bias controls on the front and those little portholes.

For my BC1H1 and 314R1 I made bases from two sheets of plywood clamped and bonded together with contruction adhesive, and then screwed together too. Cut them to fit exactly under your rig and mount the casters to the underside. That seems to hold 'em.

I may have to unload my 1H1 as I am coming across a BTA250L that is free, in cherry shape and my garage needs room. The 1H1 takes up a lot of space, even more than the Power Rock. 

[flintstone mop]

A BC1H1 hmm  I had one a little while ago. Are you sure you want to get rid of that?? I thought it was a nice 80's TX with windows to see the tubes.
Very easy to move to 160M mine was on 560kc. So there was a major changing of the fixed caps to move.
I loved the SS audio driver. Lottsa POS Peaks.
Fred

[WA3VJB]

I agree with Fred about carefully considering the fate of the Gates.

W3TIM and I loaded an "H" out of WYRE Annapolis a few years ago when they were throwing it out, and he's on his way to making a matched pair. I suggested calling his dedicated 160M BC1 the "H1" and the 80M "H2."

He's got carpentry skills and had already built a nice wall, with studs, drywall and trim, where all you see is the front of the transmitter. The back end is all in his utility room, not the station room.

Thoughtfully he designed that dividing wall with "enough" room for a twin sister.

A BC1H1 hmm  I had one a little while ago. Are you sure you want to get rid of that?? I thought it was a nice 80's TX with windows to see the tubes.
Very easy to move to 160M mine was on 560kc. So there was a major changing of the fixed caps to move.
I loved the SS audio driver. Lottsa POS Peaks.
Fred

[KB5MD]

Greg, I ended up putting a vacuum variable in for the plate tuning cap.  The bread slicer kept wanting to arc.

[N0WEK]

Greg, I mailed you a schematic for the Gates today along with a schematic of the 6L6 p-p driver that I use to drive my 833a's with.  If the existing balanced audio amp and drivers turn out to not work, the 6L6 setup will give you lots of audio.  The Gates schmatic is a bit tattered but it will get the job done, I used it.  Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if I can help out again.   

The schema showed up Saturday, it'll be a big help!

I'll take it over to Kinko's and have it reproduced a few times so I'll have working, messable copies.

Anybody else need copies?

Thanks again, I'll send back a couple of copies.


Greg

[N0WEK]

I finally got some room in the basement for the BC-1J (and the BC-610E) and decided to build a light weight box the same size as the transmitter, as suggested by someone here I think!

I'll try to fit it into the basement tomorrow, and if that works, I'll round up some more help this weekend to get both transmitters into the basement. Unfortunately, the BC-610E is in the attic, where the shack was supposed to go.

Wish me luck, it'll be close! 

[Mike/W8BAC]

That's the ticket Greg. If the wood mock up is the same size as the transmitter and it fits, You can dream up a way to move it to the right spot without braking a sweat. Remember, if the basement has low head room you can still use the plastic pipe routine to roll the rig on it's side. Depends on chrome work that sticks out I guess. Turning it on it's side and standing it up with a low overhead might require practice with the mock up as well. Best of luck!

Mike

[N0WEK]

After removing the first step up from the landing, we managed to just fit the BC-1J into the basement yesterday. If it had been one inch larger in any dimension it wouldn't have made it. We also got the BC-610E down three floors from the attic. The whole operation only took about two hours and four people. No scratches or injuries to house, transmitters or people.

Three more pictures on next post.

[N0WEK]

That's my younger brother Pat in some of the pictures.

Three more...

[N0WEK]

That's the room that will be the Shack, hopefully by spring!

Last two!