Solder?? What Solder???

[Dave K6XYZ]

I've used Ersin Multicore my whole life......the EPA knuckleheads have finally caught up with me.....I'm almost out of solder

What are you guys using now for what we do?

Previously, I had used Multicore 60/40 and it worked great.

So gimme your comments....what do you use and where do you get it...Mouser mebby?

I heard that the 'new' solder requires more heat....how much more?
Do I need to get a hatchet iron for SMC work now?

I only work on boatanchors and Collins stuff....

[N0WVA]

Radio Shack

[KF1Z]

Ebay!

I can't afford to buy solder through places like Mouser, or Ratshack....

The stuff I use went from $18 a roll to $28 in a year's time.

I can usually find good old lead/tin solder with rosin core for $5 or less per roll.

Haven't LOOKED for any multi-core stuff.


I have used the 'new' solder...
It keeps your iron nice and coated with crap... of course the flux has a say in that too...

next best is 63/37 with "no-clean" flux...  still craps up the tip though...

[Opcom]

I have not looked for multicore, but I have no problem with rosin core as I think there were some 8 or 9 spools of it in an old box I was given so I don't need to buy any. It says sn63 and seems to do a good job. The only difference I see between 60/40 and sn63 is that it is eutectic.

multicore document is informative:
tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/M-POFA-EN.PDF 

www.newark.com/multicore-solder 

on clearance??
computronics.com.au/clearance/multicore/solderwire.shtml 

Kester, with lead, 60/40
http://www.newark.com/kester-solder/24-6040-0027/44-series-wire-solder/dp/34C5648?in_merch=true&MER=PPSO_N_L5_SolderingStationsAndAccessories_None

[k4kyv]

I haven't seen Ersin Multicore in years.  I didn't know if the still made it.  I remember it was good solder, but the rosin core stuff I have now works OK, and I am not sure the Ersin was any better.  I was given several 5-lb rolls of various gauges years ago, and still have enough left to probably last me for decades to come, and I do quite a bit of soldering.

My problem is finding a decent soldering iron with a decent tip that doesn't lose its tin within a couple of hours or pit up in a weeks time.  I can't find replacement screw-in elements for my Ungar.  For small jobs I use a Weller Jr. soldering gun, about the only soldering gun I have ever seen that was worth bringing home.

[k3zrf]

I still use Kester solder Alloy:63/37 Sn/Pb

I know expensive if you buy a new roll but results are far better than typical 60/40 alloy.

The solder joint is much brighter and easier to see with aging eyes.

Available at most electronic supply houses.

I believe this alloy melts at @ 183º C.

I have two old Hakko soldering irons and a handful of tips that seem to live longer if you keep them tinned properly.

Just my $.02

[AB3L]

My problem is finding a decent soldering iron with a decent tip that doesn't lose its tin within a couple of hours or pit up in a weeks time.  I can't find replacement screw-in elements for my Ungar.  For small jobs I use a Weller Jr. soldering gun, about the only soldering gun I have ever seen that was worth bringing home.

At work here I have an Unger pencil handle with Weller screw in heaters(small Christmas tree light string thread size) and screw in tips. Three different wattage levels. The tips seem to keep the tin quite well compared to the past. I don't have to keep a file at the bench any more. Otherwise the screw in heaters seem to be quite abundant at the stockroom.

[N4LTA]

Kester 63/37 - I have tried the cheaper Chinese stuff and it doesn't wet like the Kester.

Pat
N4LTA

[W1ATR]

When the news started to circulate about the new slobber with the whiskers problem, I went on an eBay mission to stock up for the long haul on kester "44" Sn63Pb37 in .023 and .030 wire sizes. I was picking up 5lb rolls for $25 which was a hella good bargain. I vac sealed them up a roll atta time, boxed them and threw them on the closet shelf. There's about 80lbs all together now, so I should be set for a while. When one of my little spools gets low, I just pull some off a bigger roll, otherwise handling a 5lb roll is a pain in the ass.

As far as tips go, its all about keeping them either 'wet' or 'cool'. I have a bunch of these little tip tinner tins from rat shack around here. What I like to do is stick them to stuff with a piece of two sided tape. I try to make sure theres a bit of solder left on the tip before putting it back in the stand, otherwise it gets a dip in the tip tinner before hanging it back up. I like to wet the sponges with distilled water which is always on hand for mixing antifreeze for the vehicles anyway so I fill a couple of small bottles and keep them around the bench for that. If the tips have any crusty crap on them they go for a ride thru a brass wool cleaner before getting tinned.

I have one of these Weller WD1 stations that has setback sensing built in. If I hang up the iron and don't don't touch it for a few minutes, the power supply drops the pencil temp down to 250deg. When I pick the pencil back up, within 5 seconds, it's right back at 600deg. Really sweet feature and the tips last forever doing this. If I don"t touch it for an hour, it'll shut itself off all together. The WD1 is nice because it's just an 80w power supply and it'll run a bunch of different irons and scrapers, and I have a set of 'hot tweezers' for the surface mount stuff in these riceboxes. It's not very mobile because of the ps, but it lives on the bench anyway. For moving around I like these Xytronics pencils as they have a temp dial right on the handle and plug them in wherever. The tips are cheap and last a while.         

[KM1H]

I use Kester 63/37 .031  most of the time. I also have a few rolls of Kester 62/36/02 .031 with #44 rosin core. They both work fine with various small irons and a Weller dual range (8400 maybe?)

Another one I like for heavier work such as chassis, I use Kester 60/39.75/.25  .062"  #66 rosin core. This gets used with a Weller D-550 or 150 and 175W brute force irons. Im getting low and need a few rolls if anyone has some to sell.

For SS I use a 63/37 Alpha .015 with #44 core.

Ive no idea what all the core # mean, they work and thats what counts

Carl
KM1H

[N3DRB The Derb]

For small jobs I use a Weller Jr. soldering gun, about the only soldering gun I have ever seen that was worth bringing home.

my Weller jr is my go to gun for 95% of hollow state work - thing fits my hand so well an is so comfy it's spoiled me from my other guns.

[Opcom]

If caught without a tip for a gun, some #14 or #12 wire does nicely, depending on gun wattage. I sometimes feel guilty for not buying tips, they are certainly inexpensive and very well designed. But I have 50# of junk wire pieces..

I am also surprised how many times I see soldering pencils cranked up to 750 or more degrees. It is not necessary (unless the joint is difficult for some reason) and burns the tips up much faster. I think it is people being in a hurry to flow the joint, not wanting to wait a couple seconds longer.

[WBear2GCR]

Anyone with a source for SN62? That has a couple of percent of silver Ag...

                      _-_-bear

[K9ACT]

My problem is finding a decent soldering iron with a decent tip that doesn't lose its tin within a couple of hours or pit up in a weeks time.  I can't find replacement screw-in elements for my Ungar. 

Turns out Unger isn't Unger anymore but I can't remember who they are now but you can get the tips from McMaster Carr.  They avoid using brand names but if you read the descriptions carefully, you can sort it out.

I had the same tip in my iron for years and it wiped clean with a rag until I started messing with reducing the point size.  It then took regular filing to keep clean.  Don't know what they are plated with but it is magic.  My iron is on all the time when I am in the lab and lots of time when I am not and forget about it.  A single wipe and it looks like sterling.

Not sure what the problem is with solder is for ham use.   Rosin core 60/40 is still readily available and we can just ignore Big Brother.   One  problem with silver is, even small amounts drive up the melting temp to the point that will drive you nuts till you figure out what is going on.

js

[WBear2GCR]

Sn62's melting point is very similar to Sn63 (no silver). Both are Eutectic.

We're talking electronic solder, not plumbing or refrigeration stuff...

                    _-_-

Still looking for a source for Sn62 (2%silver) solder...

[W2PFY]

I just go to Radio Shack and buy the one pound roll and it works fine.

[KA2QFX]

I'm very happy with Weller products when it comes to irons.  I use a little ammonia in the water on my sponges. Cleans them up nice, no residue, a quick re-tin and your good to go. Brass brush for those tough crudded up tips.

Silver bearing (2%) solder is the only thing you can use when working with metalized ceramics. like those ceramic terminal strips in the old BA Tektronics scope 545, 535...
And you can repair those ceramic trimmer cap disks when the solder from the armature breaks. Without the silver the Pb/Sn sucks the silver plate right off the ceramic.

I had a nice spool once, got stolen when I moved along with a lifetimes collection of boxed nuts and screws. 

I find the best place to but Ol' Buzzard solder is at hamfests.

Mark

[KF1Z]

Still looking for a source for Sn62 (2%silver) solder...

I assume you mean a CHEAP source.

Since it's not hard to find.