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Author Topic: Re-lettering front panels?  (Read 4906 times)
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wb4iuy
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« on: February 08, 2010, 10:13:30 PM »

Those of you who do it, how do you re-letter and/or reproduce logos on your panels when they're repainted?

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KC4VWU
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2010, 03:18:56 AM »

How deep do you want to get into it? You can go from dry transfer letters and stickers to full blown silkscreening process.

Phil

BTW, That contest station rig is sure FB! How much ya want fer it?
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wb4iuy
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« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2010, 06:52:03 AM »

How deep do you want to get into it? You can go from dry transfer letters and stickers to full blown silkscreening process.

Phil

BTW, That contest station rig is sure FB! How much ya want fer it?

Hi Phil,,

The contest rig is not for sale, I have big plans for it :-)

I'd love to know how to make a copy of the original and screen it back on a repainted panel. I've used Datak dry transfers for years, but would love to be able to reproduce the original look. I have a paint shop at my business, but don't have a clue where to get started. Is there info online somewhere that explains this in detail?

Dave WB4IUY
http://www.WB4IUY.net
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KB5MD
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« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2010, 09:46:31 AM »

Try a local sign shop.  I mean a sign shop that has been around since the days when everything was hand painted, not the quickie-stickie junk out there today.  Most older sign shops are very familiar with what  you are looking for.  Good luck!
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N2DTS
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« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2010, 10:41:19 AM »

You would be crazy to do silk screening for a one shot job.
You need lots of special stuff, the silk screen, a big photo to expose the screen, the wash to remove the parts you want to transfer, a frame to hold the screen, a table below the screen to hold the panel to just the right height, the epoxy paint and the squeegie, clean up chemicals and lots of practice.

I used to work at a place that made circuit boards which had solder mask (the green stuff) and white marking for the parts.

Maybe they have something faster now, but not cheap...

I used to do dry transfers (datack?) with clear over paint, but datack went away and the old ones I got would not stick.
I switched to P touch white on clear, and do not overcoat with clear so I can change things later if I need to.

Brett

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WQ9E
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2010, 10:52:35 AM »

This site offers another method:  http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/Vertical/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html

I am cleaning up the "artwork" for my Howard 490 and then I am going to see how well it works.  The Valiant 2 example on the site is worth a click to see how it works.
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Rodger WQ9E
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2010, 12:19:37 PM »

Like I said, contact a local sign shop.....There are methods in use today in most sign shops that are far and away better than screen printing.  Digital printing on pressure sensitive clear substrate which is then computer contour cut, transferred to your radio and is darn hard to distuinguish from the real deal.  I've done several using this technique, being in the sign business for 40 years.
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AB3L
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2010, 05:19:54 PM »

I don't know what radio you are interested in relettering but Howard Mills has a large selection of screens for different radio's at his business.
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W1RKW
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« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2010, 05:34:46 PM »

I bought this silk screening kit from http://www.ezscreenprint.com  .   I haven't tried it yet but the procedure seems pretty straight forward.  There is plenty in the kit for experimenting before making the final screen so hopefully the final result is good.  Might be worth the shot for a pro look and using a PC you should be able to get what looks like the original logo.
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Bob
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wb4iuy
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« Reply #9 on: February 10, 2010, 12:01:43 AM »

I don't know what radio you are interested in relettering but Howard Mills has a large selection of screens for different radio's at his business.

Does he have a website or other info? I'm not familiar with him.

Thanks,
Dave WB4IUY
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wb4iuy
PW in NC
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« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2010, 12:07:05 AM »

This site offers another method:  http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/Vertical/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html

I am cleaning up the "artwork" for my Howard 490 and then I am going to see how well it works.  The Valiant 2 example on the site is worth a click to see how it works.


Holy smoke! That sure looks good in the customer photos...that's along the lines of what I'd like to be able to do. Thanks for the link.

Dave WB4IUY
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #11 on: February 10, 2010, 03:01:12 AM »

here's Howard's site. he lives 3 miles from me, still never been over there yet.  Howard's pretty much the gold standard on Collins stuff these days.

http://www.w3hmradiolabs.com/
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