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Author Topic: T368 Connector on rear of transmitter. J12  (Read 8646 times)
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ke7trp
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« on: January 12, 2010, 05:23:21 PM »

Guys.  I dont have a manual.  Can anyone tell me what the Connector on the back of the unit is called?  I searched all over the net trying to locate one. If I had the part number or type of connector, I might have better luck. I emailed Fair radio but got no response.  Its possible its listed on the webpage. I just do not know the name.

I need this plug to run audio, mute and PTT lines in and out of the transmitter.

Clark
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n2bc
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« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2010, 11:08:31 PM »

Hi Clark,

Manuals here:

http://eshop1.chem.buffalo.edu/T-368.html
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ke7trp
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« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2010, 11:53:22 PM »

Man. My eyes are buggin out of my head.  I read downloaded and read those manuals.  Deep in the maintenance manual it talks about J12 but never tells you what the connector is. It just says to fabricate a cable. 

I guess people dont use the Mute, PTT or the 600 ohm line. I emailed several T3 owners and called a few. Nobody seems to know about this plug. 

I can put the RXer in standby... But how can I pull the Coax relay in?  How can I hook my Rack audio gear up?   I might have to open it up and tap the back of the connector and run cables out.

THanks ALOT for those links and manuals.

Clark
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Ott
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« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2010, 12:00:38 AM »

Guys.  I dont have a manual.  Can anyone tell me what the Connector on the back of the unit is called?  I searched all over the net trying to locate one. If I had the part number or type of connector, I might have better luck. I emailed Fair radio but got no response.  Its possible its listed on the webpage. I just do not know the name.

I need this plug to run audio, mute and PTT lines in and out of the transmitter.

Clark
Evening Clark...

I purchased that plug from the William Perry Co. back in the mid 90's...

Like you, I didn't know the number for it either but in less than a minute on the phone he knew what I wanted and sent one out on "approval"... that is, if it worked send him $5.00 if not send it back...

http://www.superpages.com/bp/Louisville-KY/William-Perry-CO-L0009208251.htm

Give him a call... he had several for sale at a late 1990's Gaithersburg... they didn't sell so he may still have them if he's still in business...
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ke7trp
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« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2010, 12:08:43 AM »

Great!  I will call him tomorrow!  Thanks alot!

Clark
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n2bc
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« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2010, 08:44:27 AM »

I meant to point you to Mr. Perry, but forgot (senior moment).  Mr. Perry is a true Southern Gentleman and he KNOWS his stuff.

I needed a bunch of military style connectors for a Harris HF amp.  Mere mention of the model and he knew exactly what I needed.  At that time he didn't take credit cards.  He told me to wait until I received the goodies and was satisfied before sending him a personal check...  over $100.

Good luck with your T3.  Interfacing is not all that bad, the diagrams will help.  It's been 10+ years since I had mine.  But I still have the hole in the wall when I gave it a shove and it about knocked the wall down - the casters didn't have much in the way of brakes.

73, Bill  N2BC
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N2DTS
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« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2010, 09:09:53 AM »

Post a picture.
I have lots of odd connectors....

Brett
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ke7trp
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« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2010, 02:44:54 PM »

Fair radio had the parts.

I got a carbon mic with plug, A second U77 plug and the "mating connector".  Still dont know what the heck this thing is called but they claim to have them.

Clark
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Fred k2dx
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« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2010, 04:57:29 PM »

The William Perry Co. had the connector for J12, has more in stock. I ordered one although I really didn't have an immediate need for it but may in the future.

I'm in need of a low level speech amplifier sub chassis (with connector) in ANY condition if there is one in anybody's junk box and/or a complete nice PTO subchassis.
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Ott
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« Reply #9 on: January 15, 2010, 07:38:31 AM »

Post a picture.
I have lots of odd connectors....

Brett


Ok fine!


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W1UJR
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« Reply #10 on: January 15, 2010, 08:18:47 AM »

My connectors can from Fair Radio some years back.

This should answer your questions -->> http://www.w1ujr.net/conversion.htm

If needed, complete W1UJR T-3 info here -->> http://www.w1ujr.net/t368.htm

Will also post the J12 content here:


Conversion to Amateur Use
The T-368 requires little in the way of conversion for amateur use. In fact, the T/R relay is built right into the unit! The antenna and receiver connections are located on the left hand rear of the unit. The receiver connection utilizes the same "C" type connector as the R-390A. Shaped like a large BNC unit, male "C" connectors are available, but not common. This connector can easily be switched over to a type "N", or SO-239 unit. The antenna connection is the standard miliatry "N" type and should present no problem.


Line Power
The T-3 runs off 110-120VAC line current. A stiff service of at least 20 amps is required for the unit to reach full power.
The stock 2 wire line cord and socket should be replaced with a heavy 3 wire grounded system for safety reasons. Be certain to leave the 2 blade connector, the one closer to the center of the unit, in place. Removal of this plug disables the HV circuit and the unit will not transmit.


Audio
The mic connector on the front uses a common military connector. The number is a U77 if I recall correctly. I use terminal pin "C" for my audio input. For front panel PTT switching use pin "F". The ground connection is pin "D". It has been suggested that this connector be removed and replaced with a XLR unit. However, I have had good results using this connector, and even use it with T-3 #1 with the broadcast audio chain.

The stock T-3 sounds quite good on the D-104, but be sure to remove the bias voltage present on the microphone connector, it was used with the stock carbon microphone. It has been reported that the mic input line from the rear multi-pin connector J12 can cause hum in the transmit audio, but I have never experienced this. However, I would suggest that audio input be feed into the front mic connector rather than the rear socket.


T/R Switching and Receiver Muting
Although the unit can be put into transmit via the front panel switch, remote T/R switching can be accomplished via the rear control socket J12. Pin "A" of J12 serves as the PTT contact. To put the unit in the transmit mode, just drive pin "A" to ground. For receiver muting, use Pin "J" of remote control socket J12. When the T-3 is in the transmit mode pin "J" goes to ground. I use this directly with my R-390A for transmit receive audio muting.

J12 Pinout

Application

A   PTT
B   Plate Relay
C   Plate Relay
D   600 Ohm Audio Input
E   Shield Ground for Audio Input
F   Carbon Microphone Input (13+ Bias)
H   Sidetone Output
J   Receiver Muting


Casters
As the T-368 was typically mounted on shock mounts and metal beams it is a good idea to install at least 4 wheels to allow the unit to roll about. Ideally wheels with some provision for locking should be used. Be certain to select wheels that will carry the T-3s 700+ lbs. of weight. Grainger sells just such a caster unit. The part number is 1G042, and has a retail price of $9.26 each. The 24 hour telephone number for Grainger is 1-800-225-5994.


Lighting the VFO
The VFO dial on the T-3s exciter unit is not backlit, making it difficult to read in dark or low light conditions. It is a simple matter to remove the exciter unit from the RF deck and install 2 small light bulbs behind the VFO dial "shutter". Power for the bulbs can be taken off the filament voltage used with the exciter tubes. When selecting light bulbs, look for one small enough to fit between the "shutters" of the VFO dial.

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ke7trp
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« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2010, 06:12:39 PM »

I wanted to make a post saying that I finally got the audio rack hooked up. This is NOT a balanced input on the rear.  Use a standard 1/4 inch mic cable. Cut one end off, Wire the hot lead to the 600 ohm audio input pin. The Shield to the 600 ohm audio shield pin.

I plugged this into my Behringer 802 mixer and had perfect results. No hum. Lots of gain and full HiFi sound.  DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME hooking up your audio rack to the front panel jack. I did, and was satisfied but then when I heard the audio that came out of this box when I ran into the back, I was blown away.

My T3 only has the Filters bypassed and the Clipper bypassed.  A simple job that took about an hour. The only thing holding the rig back now from SUPER HiFi would be to change the caps in the Tank of the RF final and to change the bypass caps on the 4-400 socket. I might do this some day but for now, I have great sound out of this box.


CLark
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