WA1GFZ
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« on: December 17, 2009, 06:17:47 PM » |
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Screw high efficiency tonight is a night you need a big old tube to warm the shack
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WA3VJB
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« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2009, 06:55:56 PM » |
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It is very efficient to generate heat for the room and RF for the ęther all at the same time.
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2009, 07:25:09 PM » |
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my tubes are lit.
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #3 on: December 18, 2009, 09:23:09 AM » |
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now calling for upwards of 10-12" of snow tonite, I'll have the 4X1 glowing brightly
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"No is not an answer and failure is not an option!"
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2009, 10:47:06 AM » |
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I hope to have my glow back on this winter.
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W2VW
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« Reply #5 on: December 18, 2009, 12:42:00 PM » |
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I'm currently heating my house with a 25 kw dummy load. It's only got 500 volts on it now but it keeps up OK.
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #6 on: December 18, 2009, 01:44:53 PM » |
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5 KW steady state, I should hope so Do you have a variac on it
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W1RKW
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« Reply #7 on: December 18, 2009, 01:47:20 PM » |
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It's 56 in the shack right now. Got the 813 rig, V2 exciter and receiver warming up. Should be warmer in an hour or so.
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Bob W1RKW Home of GORT.
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KE6DF
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« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2009, 03:14:53 PM » |
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Here in California, it's 70 degrees in my shack and all I have turned on at the moment is two computers.
The high today is supposed to be 60 and the house furnace is turned off.
BTW, yesterday I found a sale on an IR gun type laser temperature thermometer so I bought one.
It's a cool toy. I think it was intended to be used in auto repair, but I figured it would be useful for measuring the temp of transformers, chokes and caps without having to put your hand into an area of HV and risk getting zapped.
It seems to be fairly accurate, but I need to boil and pan of water and take the temp to see how close I get to 212 degrees.
Nice to have a new toy once in a while.
My wife can't understand why I find it interesting going around the house measuring the temp of everything in sight.
I'm getting the same reaction as when I bought a Geiger counter on ebay and went around checking everything for radiation.
(BTW, I figure if you worked in our kitchen near the granite counter tops every day you would get the equivalent of one dental xray of extra radiation per year.)
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W1RKW
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« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2009, 03:39:33 PM » |
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The Geiger counter might be good for checking for radon, maybe.
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Bob W1RKW Home of GORT.
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2009, 04:51:02 PM » |
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Gee I remember monitoring women with a FLIR and found it an interesting tool (toy) You might try chasing the XYL around for some winter time fun.
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Bill, KD0HG
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« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2009, 04:56:27 PM » |
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Looks like you Easties are in for a dose of real winter... Enjoy! LOL
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #12 on: December 18, 2009, 05:03:34 PM » |
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The 1975 Sears ready to rock and roll and harmonic will get some training
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W2PFY
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« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2009, 07:03:36 PM » |
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I miss my big TUBE
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The secrecy of my job prevents me from knowing what I am doing.
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K1JJ
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« Reply #14 on: December 18, 2009, 07:51:43 PM » |
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BTW, yesterday I found a sale on an IR gun type laser temperature thermometer so I bought one.
Hmmm... what a great idea for measuring the surface temp of external anode tubes! We were just discussing this is another thread about a month ago and no one suggested one of these. I'm using outside air pumped in and it's COLD! The exit temp rarely goes above 100 degrees F, even after an OB xmission. This one looks pretty good for only $19 bux. http://cgi.ebay.com/Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature-Laser-Gun_W0QQitemZ350293766519QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item518f22b177BTW, just added a THIRD outside squirrel cage for my pair of 3-500Z's amp. The air coming in tonight is about 10F and the exit air feels about 40 degrees at best. Those 3-500Z's don't know what to think, but the plates still show some color. I wonder if the tubes have a minimum temp where they cannot handle contraction / expansion deltas? I'm also experimenting with low HV for better IMD and found about 1500V is the cleanest yet on that amp. Only about 800w pep out, but very clean. T
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Use an "AM Courtesy Filter" to limit transmit audio bandwidth +-4.5 KHz, +-6.0 KHz or +-8.0 KHz when needed. Easily done in DSP.
Wise Words : "I'm as old as I've ever been... and I'm as young as I'll ever be."
There's nothing like an old dog.
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KE6DF
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« Reply #15 on: December 18, 2009, 08:01:22 PM » |
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Yes those look just like the one I bought -- except a different color. Probably the same manufacturer.
Fluke also sells them, but their stuff is more like $100+.
I also paid $19.95 and bought it from Sears -- it was a 1/2 price sale.
It would work well for an external anode tube.
It probably wouldn't give reliable numbers for a glass tube as you would get some of the IR from the internal plate going through glass. The manual says it doesn't work on transparent objects.
The temp range on mine is from -4 F to +500 F.
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W2PFY
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« Reply #16 on: December 18, 2009, 08:04:45 PM » |
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The manual says it doesn't work on transparent objects. But, you could measure the plate caps or the radiator on the cap and maybe get an idea of the seal temperature.
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VE3GZB
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« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2009, 10:36:42 PM » |
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I'm getting the same reaction as when I bought a Geiger counter on ebay and went around checking everything for radiation.
(BTW, I figure if you worked in our kitchen near the granite counter tops every day you would get the equivalent of one dental xray of extra radiation per year.)
I built something like that 2 years ago, when we were going to go for a week up north (lots of Granite up there). I wanted to have some innocent looking case for it, so I built it into an eye-glasses case I got at the dollar store for a buck. And it works too!
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