Tube Testers

[Jim, W5JO]

One of the nice features of my Western Electric tester is the button you press to read the transconductance..  There are two.  One is a momentary make which releases when you lift your finger and the other is a lock type. 

So if you run across an old piece of gear that the tubes have been idle for a long time, you can insert them in this tester and let the filaments warm for a sufficient amount of time.  Then you can press down the button that locks it in the test mode that applies working voltage to all components of the tube. 

This will allow the tube getter to work properly and when it has sat in this fashion for 1/2 hour or more you can rely on the reading. 

[K6JEK]

There are many good tube testers.  For my birthday this year I got a wonderful TV-10D/U in great shape.  That's the tester that came with instructions on how to destroy it rather than let it fall into enemy hands.

Gee, how does your wife know how to pick out such nice birthday presents?

73,

Bruce

Quite intuitive of her don't you think?

[KC4VWU]

I've had excellent luck with the B&K DynaJet 606. I've had two and they're great little emission testers. Sold the first one to a friend, kicked myself in the butt, found another one at a fest a couple years later and bought it. That was 15 years ago and it is still chugging away on a regular basis not missing a lick. Do remember though; like everything else, they need regular service also.

Phil

[KB3RRX]

I have a bk dyna qwick 500 with the 510 extension board. got it cheep and it works.
Also have a little superior tc55 also works.

wish i had the other extension board for the 500

Wayne
KB3RRX

[W2XR]

One of the nice features of my Western Electric tester is the button you press to read the transconductance..  There are two.  One is a momentary make which releases when you lift your finger and the other is a lock type. 

So if you run across an old piece of gear that the tubes have been idle for a long time, you can insert them in this tester and let the filaments warm for a sufficient amount of time.  Then you can press down the button that locks it in the test mode that applies working voltage to all components of the tube. 

This will allow the tube getter to work properly and when it has sat in this fashion for 1/2 hour or more you can rely on the reading. 

Hi Jim,

I think you and I have the same Western Electric tube tester; it was a ruggedized version of the venerable Hickok 539B made under contract by Hickok to WE specification. Hence the  WE "KS" (Kearney Standard) number assigned to this tester.

At any rate, I always thought the "Transconductance Test" switch on this unit was deliberately made to be momentary contact, as the tube under test could be unduly stressed if it was subjected to this test for too long of a time. For this reason, I thought you were to depress this button, make note of the transconductance meter reading, and promptly release the button.

Perhaps I am mistaken here.  If you can send me down the straight and narrow path on this one, I'd appreciate it!

Thanks & 73,

Bruce

[Pete, WA2CWA]

And Jim said: I use a Western Electric KS15550

I know of a KS-15559 and a KS-15560. Don't recall a KS-15550

And Bruce said: I think you and I have the same Western Electric tube tester; it was a ruggedized version of the venerable Hickok 539B made under contract by Hickok to WE specification. Hence the  WE "KS" (Kearney Standard) number assigned to this tester.

Bruce

Many of us knew it as "Kearny Specification"

[Jim, W5JO]

Bruce, I may have fat fingered the model number.  What I have is a KS 15650-L1. and you are right about it being a branded 539 B/C.  Not a lot of difference between the 16559, 16650 and the 16750, except probably a socket or so.  I know there are KS 15650 L1 and KS 16650 L2 versions produced and I don't know the finer points of difference but not a lot.  Anyway the manual says that use the non-locking button for quick tests and the locking button for extensive tests.  

So, when I get a new piece of equipment, I do as Pete mentioned, run all tubes through the checker.  On the higher power types, 6AQ5, etc. and transmitting tubes, I will lock the P4 button down for 10 minutes or so to allow the tube to stabilize.  I haven't heard anything about stressing a tube this way.  I know at the WE office where I lived they tested tubes that were in a step relay that was operating intermittently by using the locking button.  Am I giving my age away by talking about a step office?  

[k6hsg]

I have both a tv2 and tv7.  The tv7 was given to me by a friend but when checking some tubes in a Collins receiver I thought that I had some bad 12 volt tubes only to discover that the filament voltage was not present.  I have not looked into its problem any further other than to discover that the transformer in the tester is unique to it and hard to find. It may only be a bad switch.
 I bought a Collins 30s1 from a local widow and it came with the tv2 which was in a home made aluminum case.  It has worked fine on all of the Hammarlund  sp100 200 tubes that I have tested so far.  I actually like all of the meters.  They give me a better feel as to what voltages I am applying to the various elements in the tube.
 The Army had a tester that I see on ebay now and then that doesn't test the newer tubes but there was an attachment box that made it more useful.  I would recommend that you google tube testers and spend some time reading all of the good and not so good advice that results.
 73, John
k6hsg
Bona Missouri

[Pete, WA2CWA]

Bruce, I may have fat fingered the model number.  What I have is a KS 15650-L1. and you are right about it being a branded 539 B/C.  Not a lot of difference between the 16559, 16650 and the 16750, except probably a socket or so.  I know there are KS 15650 L1 and KS 16650 L2 versions produced and I don't know the finer points of difference but not a lot.  Anyway the manual says that use the non-locking button for quick tests and the locking button for extensive tests.  

I think you're getting your "5's" and "6's intertwined. I can't find any record of KS 16### WECo. tube testers. The "KS" version of the Hickok 539B/C is the KS 15750 L1 or L2.

[Jim, W5JO]

KS 15650 L1 is what I have.  There, maybe if I stop here I will be ahead.   

Mine doesn't have the extra meter, I believe that is the same as the 539C.

[Pete, WA2CWA]

Here is the 539B:



Here is the 539C:

[AB3FL]

I have a Triplett 3413A which is a simple emissions testers.  I also have the adapater for it that tests Compactron, Novar, etc.  It is very similar to the Eico 625.  It works very well and has determined some bad tubes before.  The best test for a tube is in circuit, but a tester will give you a rough idea if it's good or not.  I picked it up from ebay for about $40.



Tom - AB3FL

[W3RSW]

From my vast experience and store of knowledge,  uh, er  , 95% of the time, +/- 5% ( , the only test I've needed with tubes is looking for open filaments. 

This can be done by inspection, simply look at glass tubes in operation or feel for warmth in metal ones or blackend glass ones.

This works for everything from 35w4's to 304TL's.

For the other 5%, I use a little Knight kit with plate cap lead, or simply substitute a new tube in circuit.   I haven't used the Knight in so long that the knobs have turned white with crud.

Part of the 'experience' is simple schtuff, like knowing that 50c5 and 35w4's are almost always the first to fail. 

Another little bugger, of all things, is the 6C4, most commonly used as a local osc. in Hammarlunds, etc.  Why the damn things fail more often than say others of same fil. rating in same envelope must be related to their service.   It's beyond me.

Driving a car without windows takes perviance.
As several have mentioned, using a tube tester ritually might take up time best used elsewhere, not to mention giving questionable results.

[W3RSW]

Another bit of experience...  if, say your guess-meter is slowly going south on the 75A2, 3 series and after cleaning, resetting the zero pot, try substituting IF tubes driving the S-meter bridge circuit. 

This type of stuff rarely calls for new tubes, e.g., several 6Ba6's reside in the same receiver.  Some will work in less critical applications, say the last IF of  a simpler radio.

I could go on and on, but the advice about not throwing out 'marginal' tubes given in the manuals mentioned is reasonable, all the organizing, marking and cataloguing of such not withstanding.  Sometimes boxes of old tubes are questionble.