The AM Forum
April 16, 2024, 02:27:05 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Calendar Links Staff List Gallery Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Getting coax into the house  (Read 29389 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
WA1GFZ
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 11152



« on: November 21, 2009, 04:45:11 PM »

When I first bought this place I would just blow a hole in a wall if I wanted to get coax in the house. Then I put some nice siding on the place and didn't want to drill any more holes. I needed to get a coax into the shack near a basement window but didn't want to mess with the glass. I have a lexan pane in the window near fugly tuner but that was a lot of extra coax going around to the side of the house. 
The trpical basement window is set in about 4 inches. Above that is access to the sill plate. Usually the sill plate is a 2X6. I got a nice fresh 1 inch spade bit and shot through the trim board above the window into the sill plate on an angel to avoid hitting sitting on the corner of the sill making sure I was away from any floor joists. It worked like a charm and you can't see it from outside.  I drilled 2 one for the log and another for the 40 meter antenna. Then shot the rotor cable and relay cable in. I will stuff the gap with aluminum foil or calk to seal it.
Logged
KJ4VOV
Guest
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2011, 07:26:15 AM »

For sealing that hole I highly recommend just getting a block of duct seal in the electrical department of your local home improvement store.  It's cheap (about $2.00 for a one pound block), never dries out, is waterproof, fire resistant, insect and rodent resistant and, while it sticks well, is easy to remove at a later date.
Logged
K1JJ
Contributing
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 8893


"Let's go kayaking, Tommy!" - Yaz


« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2011, 12:34:59 PM »

Another method I used here:

Over time we hams tend to keep adding more feedlines and cables into the shack.  I figured I'd make a 4" opening and get it over with.

I drilled a 4.25" hole thru the aluminum siding and wall using a hole saw bit. Then slid a 4" diameter white PVC drainage pipe thru the hole - just long enough to stick out 1" on both ends. It's a tight fit if you use schedule 20 PVC pipe and a 4.25" hole saw. (Both available at Home depot)

 To dress it up, buy two of those 4" toilet flanges that fit over the pipe  on the inside and outside wall. Use RTV to seal the flange to the house wall and around the pipe.  Waterproof, works FB and looks professional.  Room for all kinds of clazy ham projects to the year 2100.

T
Logged

Use an "AM Courtesy Filter" to limit transmit audio bandwidth  +-4.5 KHz, +-6.0 KHz or +-8.0 KHz when needed.  Easily done in DSP.

Wise Words : "I'm as old as I've ever been... and I'm as young as I'll ever be."

There's nothing like an old dog.
K1ZJH
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 299


« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2011, 01:38:08 PM »

I blew a hole right through the wall and run 4" electrical conduit under the floor right to the ham bench Smiley

Pete
Logged
k4kyv
Contributing Member
Don
Member

Offline Offline

Posts: 10057



« Reply #4 on: November 29, 2011, 01:53:46 PM »

A trick for making stuff like caulking and foam seal rodent proof, is to mix in steel wool with it. They will not attempt to chew through steel wool.
Logged

Don, K4KYV                                       AMI#5
Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM...    Never got off AM in the first place.

- - -
This message was typed using the DVORAK keyboard layout.
http://www.mwbrooks.com/dvorak
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

AMfone - Dedicated to Amplitude Modulation on the Amateur Radio Bands
 AMfone © 2001-2015
Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.051 seconds with 18 queries.