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Author Topic: Black Paint on HV Windings ?  (Read 10808 times)
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kg8lb
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« on: October 30, 2009, 08:46:21 PM »

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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2009, 09:40:42 PM »

I  recall there used to be a product called Glyptal, a high voltage paint.  It came in either red or black.  I  would assume the black stuff used something other than carbon black for pigment.  In fact, I tried to find some a few years ago, but all I could find was the red stuff.

You  can't lose anything by trying out the transformer.  If the paint is in fact pigmented with carbon black, the transformer is ruined anyway, so you won't lose anything when it craps out.  If it holds up, it is probably impregnated with the black Glyptal or something like it.

Have you contacted the seller to see if he knows anything about this?  Is this a newly manufactured transformer or a "refurbished" one?
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Don, K4KYV                                       AMI#5
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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2009, 09:49:05 PM »

yeah how weird, what's the story on this one?
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« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2009, 10:10:29 PM »

I've seen black paint applied to the windings of a few audio transformers on tube sound reinforcement amps I have worked on. Not sure why it was used over the varnish on the windings, but it was not problematic. What you received might work fine.

On the other hand, a Thordarson CHT 300 is nothing to sneeze at! Mine has been happily and reliably handling audio duties in my medium powered rig for 30 years and who knows what it went through before it landed here. It's a great sounding transformer!

Rob W1AEX
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« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2009, 02:15:12 AM »

I've plenty of black-painted transformers in high powered transmitters for many years.  Electro Engineering, Westinghouse, and Basler Electric come to mind right off. 

None of it even looked like Glyptal varnish, too thin.

Run what you brung, as they say. Wink
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kg8lb
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« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2009, 06:34:21 AM »

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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2009, 10:11:07 AM »

the thor CHT 300 watt unit TM-77 was what the first HB rig used,  with 805's.  I've never seen the TM-78 500 watt version. trouble is the plugs for the plug n jacks are always missing.
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« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2009, 10:11:31 AM »

Its not a paint and has been used that way for decades on Peter Dahl and other transformers. Im looking at an original late 70's Dahl Alpha 77SX xfmr as I type this.

Instead of starting a panic mode thread it would make more sense to call Magcap and get an edumencation Roll Eyes.

Carl
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2009, 10:23:45 AM »

Quote
The new one came with an old name, newly made in Mass.

why dont you call them on the phonium and voice your concerns? I dont think they would purposely sell a defective product.

and are you talkin about the people that took over Peter Dahl?
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« Reply #9 on: October 31, 2009, 10:50:22 AM »

If you can't get any information, I would at least HI-POT test it or find an electrician that will lend you an insulation tester to check it out. If it HI-POTs at 5KV with out any problems, chances are it will be FBOM.
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« Reply #10 on: October 31, 2009, 11:01:29 AM »

Signal Transformer co. uses black paint or whatever the coating is and i have never seen one fail
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kg8lb
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« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2009, 11:23:06 AM »

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« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2009, 12:18:45 PM »


The "Signal Transformer Corporation" has made black transformers for decades. The black does penetrate into the magnet wire. More recently the EPA and OSHA folks are regulating transformer varnishing processes. The signal folks describes the 3 main varnishing / potting categories used today.

Here is the link:


http://www.signaltransformer.com/TechnicalLibraryPage.asp?pDoc=20

Jim
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« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2009, 01:25:40 PM »

Quote
The new one came with an old name, newly made in Mass. Not real comfortable however with what looks like  black paint all over. Fish paper and varnish on windings is fine. Black paint with it's carbon based pigment could be a poor choice on HV transformer windings?


Is this a newly manufactured transformer or something purchased from NOS? Who is the manufacture? Is it a multi tap? I would like to see a picture if possible.
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« Reply #14 on: October 31, 2009, 01:35:33 PM »

[...]  trouble is the plugs for the plug n jacks are always missing.
Easy to find: go to your neighborhood Shadio Rack, and buy  a package of cheap RCA plugs.   Take 'em apart and keep the pins and attached phenolic ring, and junk the outer part. Presto!  Thordarsen Plugs!
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kg8lb
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« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2009, 01:57:04 PM »

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« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2009, 09:18:44 PM »



Seems sillly not to call the company... 99% chance they know what they are doing, and have hipot tested the product before shipping.

If it was my rig, I'd install it and let it rip.

If it arcs, then I'd call them up and send it back for a free re-do.

But that's only my opinion.

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kg8lb
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« Reply #17 on: October 31, 2009, 09:49:26 PM »

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Bill, KD0HG
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« Reply #18 on: November 01, 2009, 09:27:29 AM »

Shouldn't be a concern.

There's only a few volts between turns of even high voltage transformers.

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kg8lb
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« Reply #19 on: November 01, 2009, 11:27:11 AM »

Shouldn't be a concern.

There's only a few volts between turns of even high voltage transformers.



  You have a good point there. The CHT is now in and working fine. Will vacuum varnish the new tranny and use it later on.
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k4kyv
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« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2009, 01:19:38 PM »

Shouldn't be a concern.

There's only a few volts between turns of even high voltage transformers.



The greatest danger is from arcing over between layers of windings, and between the windings and the core of the transformer.  Also, the manufacturer sometimes failed to sufficiently insulate the leads running to and from the windings, from the rest of the winding and/or the core.  If there is no varnish or other treatment, moisture from the air can degrade the insulation, particularly the kind of paper used in older transformers.  The paper itself degrades over time and becomes brittle and undoubtedly a less perfect insulator even if it is kept dry.

That's why I always float the frame of vintage modulation transformers, modulation reactors and filter chokes away from ground and make sure I am using well insulated mounting hardware.  It is not a good idea to impose unnecessary HV stress on whatever dielectric exists between windings and core.

This should be less a problem with newly constructed transformers.  The insulating materials used to-day are supposed to be far superior to what was used in the WW2 era and before.
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kg8lb
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« Reply #21 on: November 01, 2009, 01:52:26 PM »

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Bill, KD0HG
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« Reply #22 on: November 01, 2009, 09:30:38 PM »

Here's the dielectric properties of Glyptal transformer varnish.
There's at least a dozen places selling it per Google.

You can also still get Q-Dope and Scotchkote as alternatives.

Typical Glyptal Cured Film Properties:
Dielectric strength—Dry—ASTM 0115-55—volts/mil 1500
Dielectric strength 24 hours in water—volts/mil 350
Arc resistance—seconds 480

 Meets requirements of MIL-E-2218
 Flexibility is far superior to competitive red sealers on both backed and air-dried films. 1201 can take rugged impact.
 Water Resistance is excellent.
 Prolonged Aging doesn’t crack 1201’s film, leaves no place for destructive agents to get in.
 Drying 1201 is tack-free in about 2 hours at room temperature, can be baked to a beautiful smooth finish.
 Heat Resistance. 1201 has got it, can withstand continuous 135°C temperatures.
 Toughness. High-gloss paints have a tender film. 1201 has a low-gloss finish, designed for great resistance to abrasion.
 Adhesion. 1201 hangs on, stays where it’s put—on metals, ceramics, porcelain, concrete, fibres, and wood.
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« Reply #23 on: November 02, 2009, 07:13:58 AM »

Here's the dielectric properties of Glyptal transformer varnish.
There's at least a dozen places selling it per Google.

You can also still get Q-Dope and Scotchkote as alternatives.

Typical Glyptal Cured Film Properties:
Dielectric strength—Dry—ASTM 0115-55—volts/mil 1500
Dielectric strength 24 hours in water—volts/mil 350
Arc resistance—seconds 480

 Meets requirements of MIL-E-2218
 Flexibility is far superior to competitive red sealers on both backed and air-dried films. 1201 can take rugged impact.
 Water Resistance is excellent.
 Prolonged Aging doesn’t crack 1201’s film, leaves no place for destructive agents to get in.
 Drying 1201 is tack-free in about 2 hours at room temperature, can be baked to a beautiful smooth finish.
 Heat Resistance. 1201 has got it, can withstand continuous 135°C temperatures.
 Toughness. High-gloss paints have a tender film. 1201 has a low-gloss finish, designed for great resistance to abrasion.
 Adhesion. 1201 hangs on, stays where it’s put—on metals, ceramics, porcelain, concrete, fibres, and wood.


also tried to add Don's quote about Glyptal color .... GE used the stuff ( usually green ) for many years after alignment to keep vibration from shifting settings .... fwiw ...73
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« Reply #24 on: November 02, 2009, 07:25:33 AM »

I  recall there used to be a product called Glyptal, a high voltage paint.  It came in either red or black.  I  would assume the black stuff used something other than carbon black for pigment.  In fact, I tried to find some a few years ago, but all I could find was the red stuff.


I believe that Collins used the red Glyptol on the S-line/ KWM series as a QC marker for solder joints that were checked and approved. I have a 75S-3B loaded with it under the chassis. Perhaps to keep atmosphere from the joints?
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