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Author Topic: great undercoating material  (Read 4258 times)
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WA1GFZ
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« on: September 04, 2009, 05:15:01 PM »

I helped do a roll roofing job a while ago and came away with a couple gallons of roofing tar. Today I needed to rotate the tires on the truck and rebuild the parking brakes. I did the rear wheel wells as a test. Worked great. Now plan to do the bottom of all cars and truck. Spent oil is NG highly acid PH.

I also squirt ATF in the body joints to keep rust away.
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W1ATR
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« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2009, 12:51:57 AM »

Yeah, it's that new crap they're spraying on our roads Frank. Might as well just use a metal dissolving agent and get it over with. I used to have truck OCD over this stuff, but I think I've just been giving up the last couple years. Wash it, wax it, and maintain it mechanically. If it turns into dust, then so be it.  Roll Eyes If it gets bad enough that I don't need to open the doors to get out, then I'll look for another.

During a cleaner moment and almost 300K on the clock:




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Don't start nuthin, there won't be nuthin.

Jared W1ATR


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k4kyv
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Don
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« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2009, 03:33:58 AM »

Yeah, it's that new crap they're spraying on our roads Frank. Might as well just use a metal dissolving agent and get it over with.

I assume you are talking about road salt.

In some places that require an annual (or even more frequent) "safety" inspection, they will flunk a vehicle if there is any visible sign of body rot, as if a small rust hole in a fender or door panel could possibly pose any kind of safety hazard.

Then they dump salt on the roads to make the vehicle rust out, so that when it will no longer pass inspection you have to buy a new one.  That helps keep the economy going.

Someone (Timtron, IIRC) once told me that he brushed fresh roofing tar over the rusty spots in one of his cars to stop up the cancerous holes, just before inspection time.  He said it really looked like crap, but successfully got him through the inspection.

I had rotten spots in the wooden window sills of one of my buildings, and dug out the rotted wood and filled some of the holes with roofing tar about 20 years ago, and the repair is still perfectly sound.  On others I filled the rotten wood with wood filler sold for the purpose, and after about 5 years, cracks appeared around the hardened filler and the wood had continued to rot.  After the tar had weathered long enough for the sheen to go away, I painted it, and the tar held paint better than the unrotted part of the wood.

I'm glad we don't have to deal with that vehicle inspection ripoff crap in this state.  DMV officials have been pushing for it for decades, but it always gets voted down.
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Don, K4KYV                                       AMI#5
Licensed since 1959 and not happy to be back on AM...    Never got off AM in the first place.

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W1ATR
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« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2009, 11:04:34 AM »

They pre-treat the roads with calcium chloride up here and the stuff is terrible on anything metal. Then once it starts snowing or icing, the salt comes out. I used to wash off the bottom of my truck a few times a month in the winter with this contraption I made with a 10ft stick of 3/4" copper. One end was capped with a slit cut in the cap to fan the water upwards, and I put a ball valve with a hose adapter on the other end. I have both hot and cold water on the outside of the house for washing cars and I would blast the crud off to try and keep the rot at bay. This worked great, but I had to constantly grease everything and oil body mounts and so forth, so I gave up on that.

I was ready to go on the beginning of '08 for a new rig and started shopping around. To replace exactly what I already have with a brandy new truck, it would have run me close to $50K. Ford was having all sorts of trouble with a new diesel they started using for that model year, and I was warned by the diesel mech, who is a friend, off to the side at the dealer of course, to stay away from that engine for the first year. Kinda glad I did, because they had major flaws with that diesel that are barely being fixed now.

This year, I'm just happy to be keeping the bills paid, so no new truck for me unless this one gives up the ghost with something major. That 12 weeks of rain we had and cooler all around temps has taken a huge chunk of air conditioning money away this year. Other guys I know that ran an HVAC shop in this area have gone under in the past year, so I'm just happy to still have the doors open.

There isn't any inspection around here until 25 years or older I believe. (Might be 20 years, but I'm not even sure of that). Anything that comes in from out of state has to be inspected however.   
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Jared W1ATR


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W1RKW
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« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2009, 05:55:37 PM »

cathodic protection is the way to go.  When my father was making paint and coatings for tower and industrial use I used to use that material which is basically zinc and moisture cured and put it on the underbody of a few cars I owned. The zinc took the abuse not the body.  Never had a rust. And the stuff was great because prep was minimal. You could go right over dirt with it. The stuff remained flexible so it wouldn't flake off over time.
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Bob
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« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2009, 09:52:08 PM »

Yeah, Don
Here in Pa. they flunk brake lines and fuel lines for rust. The bottom of our '97 Regal looks pretty bad. I would almost want to sand blast and paint with something I heard that just goes right over rust. It does some chemical thing with rust and protects the metal.
Frank, the truck looks like it can go a lot more miles. It's in very good condition!!

Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
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« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2009, 10:14:11 AM »

Sounds like TimTron's "Car Dung" treatment.  He did my 1968 SAAB 96 many years ago.  What a mess!

73,

MrMike, W1RC
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2009, 09:50:41 PM »

I've seen that zinc stuff in boat shops but it costs a good $20 a quart. I think I got 5 gallons of tar for just over $20. 3 days later I have most of the tar off my body. next time I will wear long pants and a shirt. it is a pita to get it out of your hair.
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