Need documentation on KW62 Transmitter.

[ke7trp]

I know how you guys like pictures...  Here are some pics of the modulator section and the power supply at the bottom.

Clark

[N0WEK]

Nice work and NICE iron!

[ke7trp]

Its a step up over my Globe 500 anyways!

We are going to clean it today and get the plug for the 60am 240 volt power. THen fire it up in a day or two after it drys.

Clark

[N3DRB The Derb]

hey clark,

those diodes look to be 1962 vintage or thereabouts.  looks like he used enough of em to be safe, but I bet they're 500~600ma maximum and diodes back then had pretty large range of tolerances, not what you want in a stack like that.  throw sum 3amp rated 1N5408's at those diode stacks after you test fer a bit to make sure the iron and large expensive stuff is good.

and dont get too energetic with the hose. keep it away from those transformers, don't splash nothin. matter of fact LOOSE THE HOSE. Too much chance you'll spray something that really needs to stay dry.

You'll be ready for rockem sockem action when that maul gets keyed. Wont be a slopbucket from San Diego to Vancouver that can bother you. No Sir. 

[Ralph W3GL]

Clark,

What Derb said...

Get rid of those  old Top Hat diodes and put the 5408s in place.

Very cheep on Epay most of the time and the old diodes are at best
only 600vpiv @ 1a

[N3DRB The Derb]

Clark,

go get some bulk WD40 in the  big can and a billion shop towels. Don't let water get near that thing.    should have been more forceful about that.

Also, check that wiring harness to make sure the HV wire in it has not cracked and broken inside the wire bundle. That bottom plug going to the modulator looks a bit funky to me.

[ke7trp]

To late on the hose..   I hope I did not destroy anything.. You needed to see this thing in person. 50 years of nicotine and dust/dirt.  I was carefull with the hose.. Most of the spraying was on the side walls. Then I rinsed wit 2 gallons of Distilled water to be safe. I am going to have to re-label thing thing.. Half the Silk screen came off in the process. Its ok though.. None of the lettering looked good anyways.

I am leaving the diodes for now..  If it fires up and works, I will then fix things I need to along the way. ON the list are lower Bleeders, 5408s and some larger Oil caps.  For now though.. Lets see if it fires up after 4 days in the Arizona 105 Degree heat.. It has Direct sun on it and the surface temp after just 20 minutes is almost to hot to touch.. Any water will be gone in probably a day.  I am goiing to go over it by hand one more time to get the film off it. Then make new labels. I got the power plug today. Tomorrow, I will wire up the Ranger socket to get the audio out to the 600 ohm terminals. I am using two conductor shielded mic cable. Anyone know the pinout on the ranger for the 600 ohm audio?

Here are some before and after pics.

Before and after on the RF deck!   MAN DOES IT LOOK GOOD NOW!!! The sidewalk ran black with the water!

[N0WEK]

Nice and clean!

Whoever built that did a really fine job!

Do you know who built it?

[N3DRB The Derb]

cleaned it up, it did. 

That's seriously nice homebrew. Guys who can do that dont need to pay $1000.00 for ugly Junkston 500's.

More power to the homebrew.

[ke7trp]

It was built at Motorola here in PHX.  Thats the story I got. The the name K4KYC was on the paper work. Gene Williams. Now a silent key. I really lucked out on this one.  It has a stack of paper work with printed schematics and diagrams of every terminal.

I went out and checked it.. Its DRY as a bone already.. Not a single trace of water. The thermometer read 150 inside that cabinet.. LOL.   I figure another couple days of that and its totaly dry.  Going to make the cable for the ranger up as soon as one of you help me with the pin out for 600 ohms audio out the back connector

Clark

[KD6VXI]

It was built at Motorola here in PHX.  Thats the story I got. The the name K4KYC was on the paper work. Gene Williams. Now a silent key. I really lucked out on this one.  It has a stack of paper work with printed schematics and diagrams of every terminal.

I went out and checked it.. Its DRY as a bone already.. Not a single trace of water. The thermometer read 150 inside that cabinet.. LOL.   I figure another couple days of that and its totaly dry.  Going to make the cable for the ranger up as soon as one of you help me with the pin out for 600 ohms audio out the back connector

Clark

Clark,

When you bring it up, bring it up VERY slow, on the variac...  The insides of the xformers will arc if there is ANY moisture in them at full voltage.  If you bring it up slowly, you can slowly cook the water out.

I found out the hard way, but you know the story of my entire radio collection and water

I usually bake my iron in the oven, but that might be overkill as long as your letting it sit in the sun.  I only get a bit of time in the heat here.

Got the dipole for 160 on the ground, need the figure for the feeders so i can make the center support.  Anyone care to let me know what spacing I need for 450 ohms or thereabouts, using 10 gauge coated household stranded wire?  I plan on 18 feet of feeders feeding 250 feet of antenna, split in the middle, apex at 100-140 feet, end of the legs at close to 50 feet.

--Shane

[ke7trp]

I will leave it in the AZ sun for a week. That will ensure no moisture. It has Variacs pictured for Screen and Plate volts. I will inch them up slowly. 

6 inch spacing.. Mine is 600 ohms at 6 inch.  Made from Black pipe. Not sure what its made of.. Says "silverline" on it.

Clark

[N3DRB The Derb]

Clark,

It seems your parasitic suppressors r missing resistors.... I don't see any inside those coils. Lookit the schematic and see if it shows any. Just having bare coils sitting on your tube caps I don't think will do anything. See if anyone else chimes in on that.

normally you put something like 3 or 4 2 watt carbon resistors inside each coil to equal ~100 ohms total. maybe he didn't do that for some reason. I dunno. 

[ke7trp]

I wondered that myself.  No solder marks.  Never had them.. The Schematic has 50ohm 5watts pictured in those coils. I have some 2 watt carbon 47 ohm resistors. What do you guys suggest here?  Try to get them installed or leave it the way it was for the last 50 years?

Also.. Confused on hooking up the ranger for the audio drive to the grids of the 810s.. This transmitter mod deck has "600ohm" terminals and pictures the transformer going from those terminals to the 810s. 

In the ranger manual it states you can use Pin 2 and 3 for audio output. Is this the 600 ohm output?  I want to make sure before I make this cable up. 

I am excited (pun indended) to get this up and running

I am now looking for a nice clean 50 watt audio amp.  I already have a Large Diaphram condenser mic and mixing console for the globe 500C.  I am going to run an output from that board to a small 50 watt or less Audio amp. Then to the hammond transformer I purchased.  It has 4 ohm and 8 ohm taps on one side and 600 ohm on the other. I am going to mount this in the transmitter cabinet. Then run the 8ohm output of the audio amp to this transormer and then to the 600 ohm input that the modulator has. This should get me Wide banded audio in to drive the 810s. Of course, I could replace the existing 600 ohm to 810 transformer with one that will match right to the 8 ohm output of the audio amp at a later date.

I am doing this as I am sure I wont be happy with the rangers audio. We shall see. 

I think I might also replace the Screen to ground bypass caps. They are 005s in there now. 

Clark

[N3DRB The Derb]

The Schematic has 50ohm 5watts pictured in those coils.

yep, I think they should have something along those lines. bare coils do not a parasitic suppressor make.

I cant help you on the Ranger hookup, but you sure dont need 50 watts of audio to drive a pair of 810's. Do you know what the Mod iron is?

Why would you not like the ranger audio? Couple of things to do and it will sound ok fine.

You're makin it harder. take teh easy route and prove it on the air. Then go back and hi fi it. Make sure your iron is good, use it, dont make it hard on yourself trying for what you think would be perfection. Thats what I did with my amp and it was a horrible mistake. I lost a lot of operating time tryin to satisfy stupid perfectionist "this has to be just so" urges.

Dont do that. It's the road to ham radio hell. plug a damn D104 in the ranger and get it going.  You can perfect it in due time.

[ke7trp]

Will Flame proof resistors work? I found some 51 ohm 5 watts at RF parts.  I can solder them in.

Yeah.. I hear ya on getting it up and running. That is the plan. D104 with Ranger. Today while talking on the Valiant the Bandswitch Just went up in smoke.. I dont get it.. That damn valiant breaks down once a month. Works perfectly for weeks and then POOOF its gone.  I am going to hook up the ranger tomorrow morning and use it for a while to make sure its good to go.

I was just making plans for the hifi audio on the transmitter.  I understand I dont need 50 watts but who said I was going to pump 50 in? I would pump enough in to get it going.  The ranger has 33 watts of audio in it and its MORE then enough.

I think I have the ranger pin out figured out.

Trying to learn here!  Thanks for all the help!   I cant wait to fire it up!

Clark

[N3DRB The Derb]

you could use your 2 watt 47 ohm carbon jobs. wire up 3 in series, with short leads then parallel that with 3 more. so you got a triangled bundle of resistors , 3, 3, 3, all in series. connect em to the ends of each coil, use silver solder if you have any - needs to be high temp stuff. If you need some, I'll send some to you in the mail. I got more than I need.

[ke7trp]

I dont want to use those 47s. They are worth to much money and I would have to use a ton of them. I would like to use just one resistor inside the coil like normal if possible.

Clark

[KD6VXI]

I dont want to use those 47s. They are worth to much money and I would have to use a ton of them. I would like to use just one resistor inside the coil like normal if possible.

Clark

Stick a #77 bead at the tube anode connection and be done with it.  Or any other bead that is essentially nothing at HF, but gets with the program above 40 or so mhz.  Works well, and if it cracks, you know you have issues, as well as saved yourself some dough on the carbon comp resistors your SUPPOSED to use for the parasitic suppressors.

ALTHOUGH!!!

Those coils COULD be part of the tuned circuit, but I doubt it.

On the 10 meter band, it's not uncommon to run a ribbon coil in the anode lead of each tube, especially when you get to 3 or more, to get the stray inductance in line.

I DOUBT that's what your's are for, but keep it in mind.


--Shane

[N3DRB The Derb]

 do something like this...... 5 watts and 50 to 100 ohms total resistance..... this photo is from a Drake L7 amp, two 3-500's.......

[ke7trp]

Making major progress on this old rig.

I have decided to ditch the 810 modulators and modulator power supply.  I am going to mount the big BC610E power trans at the bottom of the deck, Raise the existing power supply deck up.

I am going to use a 1000 watt solid state Rack mount PA amplifier hooked to the audio transformer I have. The output of this will go to the B+ up to the 4-400s. Then, I can add a shelf for the RXer, and the a Yaesu Transciever. The Yaesu will provide carrier excitation to the 4-400s.

It will be a complete roll around AM transmitter and SSB Rig.

Clark