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Author Topic: gonset T/R relay  (Read 3994 times)
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N3DRB The Derb
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« on: April 03, 2008, 07:45:25 PM »

Well, we had to open up the amp and work on it without the cover to find out what was going on. The added-on relay is firing but the main T/R is not pulling in. Just sits there. If we dont have everything plugged in just the right way, keying the amp results in blowing the 20 A GFI breaker as I mentioned before.

We can manually get contact by pushing or pulling on the contacts no problem. Plate current rises to 75 ma as it should on keydown, but since the grids are getting no juice it just sits there.

I think the first move is to go to 3 wire line cords for everything in the shack and see if we cant rid of of this breaker problem. I cant afford to have someone mess around in the breaker box, and I'm not going to.

anyway, thats what's wrong. The main T/R relay is just sitting there and not being pulled in by the other relay.


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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2008, 08:13:43 AM »

Soundz like you got something wired wrong??
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2008, 10:46:37 AM »

I didn't mess with any of that. Up until now, I thought both relays were kicking. This is the first time I've had the cover off while it was on.

It *sounded* like it was keying , but I was hearing the added relay which is working. I didn't know the main relay wasn't firing because I had the cover on whenever he power was on and I couldn't see it not move. I just assumed it was because I got a nice thunk when I keyed it. When I got brave enough to work on it without the cover on and the HV on, that's when we saw the thing no go for the first time.

I'm going to measure the voltage to the coil and make sure it is getting juice. I checked the components around the coil/keying area and all the resistors are good to go. The diode is good. the 2 caps are brand new. No bad actors yet. I should get 117 volts or so of filtered DC across that relay coil when I key it.

I have to go up to the Social Security office now, and I'll report in afterward if I get something new to report.
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W2VW
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« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2008, 03:29:51 PM »

Derb,

That Goonset originally used 110 volts AC applied by external sources to key it. That AC is rectified and applied to the relay in question.

IIRC the added relay is using one set of contacts to get the 110 to the rectifier board.

If you are in there making things get done your way it would be a good idea to bulldoze the AC primary wiring and switch. It could be replaced with a double pole relay. The existing AC switch was old time JS.

That amplifier made 1300 watts P.E.P. on the bench a few years back. The plate iron is up to it. If the 110 line sags you will lose filament peak emission and everything will look like an aged Mae West.

Have fun and keep hand in pockie.

Dave W2VW.
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2008, 06:09:51 PM »

dave,

is on #12 guage line/ 20 A breaker less than 10 ft from the service box. When we can afford it we are going to have dual 20 A lines put in just for the gear. I also have a 220 line ready to go. But I am fixated on this amp. It represents more than what it is to me. A lot of people cared enough about me to gather it all up so I could get back on. The amp is part of that.  It's going to make power again one way or the other, and it will never leave this house as long as I'm around and able to operate.
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w3jn
Johnny Novice
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« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2008, 07:35:55 PM »

Derb, didjya remember to use that little wallwart dongle for the relay power?

Jeez, Dave, HTH are ya?  Long time no see/talk to.

You see whatchya helped create?? Grin Grin Grin
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2008, 08:24:53 PM »

Yeah Johnny sure did. I'm wiring in a HD chassis mount fuseholder and 3 wire cord and plug. When I get it back together, I'll hook it up and measure that voltage going to the relay coil. It *should* be right on the money - everything around that coil checks good.

Dave, it isnt back to working yet, but the amps basically been totally rebuilt - new bandswitch, all the tank circuit redone with new silver strap, new RGS 400 coax in/out, etc. When we finally crack the nut, it will be good to go for a long time.

Here's the bandswitch. New contacts.

When the last problem is resolved, I think it will kick off right away.







* DSCN0141.jpg (173.39 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 346 times.)

* DSCN0404.jpg (206.03 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 324 times.)
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W2VW
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« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2008, 08:46:26 PM »

Derb, Maybe you can find an identical plate xfmr. Start a 2nd chassis just for a parr-splah. You could make use of the 240 neutral for a pair of 125 plate xfmr primaries. That iron is too close to the tubes anyway. Then you have room for 2 more 572B sockets! You have the toobs already. Plenty for legal limit. Dunno how the choke would like it though......

Hi Johnny, Great work getting Derb set up. Steve sent photos. There were always a lot of good people in this bunch.

73,
Dave W2VW.
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N3DRB The Derb
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« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2008, 11:09:57 AM »

well it is blowing the breaker again. This time with a 3 wire line cord. I am going to see if I can get it onto another circuit without a GFI on it. I am going to call in a guy to install 2 20A line just for the gear and check the current wiring when we get some more $$$. I bet my former boss, who did the renovation in the garage, got something miswired.

At this point I'm plenty disgusted. I pulled the terminal board off of it, no solder drips or splashes on the other side of the board. Now I have to wire it all back in and reinstall it.
 
 Angry Tongue

I'm going to wire everything back up ( I left an inch of color showing on each terminal so I cant miss-wire it) and leave it alone until I get someone out here. I'll just barefoot it for a while.

opened up a chinese fortune cookie today that had been sitting around for a few months. Fortune read " It is not in your nature to give up".

must be a sign. Back to work.  Smiley







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