Long screws for Ranger cabinet

[N4JOY]

I hope this has not been covered before but I was unable to find any information on the long screws that retain the Ranger's cabinet to the chassis.  They seem to be missing from most Rangers.  Has anyone located suitable replacements?

I might get creative and use bushings or spacers to build my own. The threading appears to be 10-24. 

Thanks,

Chris, N4JOY

[kc2ifr]

Ya can always buy threaded rod at the hardware store and cut them to length.  Then use a nut on the exposed end.
Ive done it and it works great.
Bill

[KA1ZGC]

I was just about to say the exact same thing as Bill.

In fact, one of the screws for my Ranger is exactly that, some ordinary threaded rod with a wingnut screwed on the end, the end flared out with a punch to lock the wingnut in place, and some slobber added for extra insurance.

Works like a champ, and no screwdriver required to tighten/loosen it; which is good since the stock screws are the slotted type, and I've seen a few scratches around them where people's screwdrivers have slipped out and gouged the paint.

[N4JOY]

Perfect idea!  Thank you!!!

It's amazing how a rig feels like it performs better when we fix these minor issues.  It's kind of like my dad used to say, a clean car just drives better.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Decades ago I got some small Greenlee taps and dies in a lot of radio stuff. Seldom even thought about them until rediscovering them 3-4 years back. Since used them several times, including once to thread a steel rod for an antique reel mower, it worked slick. So Bill's take on it for the Ranger and other Johnson products makes perfect sense, and a much cheaper alternative to buying originals off ebay or wherever. And if you have the tools, you can make your own from steel rod available at the hardware store.

[n2bc]

Threaded rod is the ticket.  I epoxied a cap nut on the end.  Now for the real trick... never lose them again! After you pass them through the cabinet supports, place two nuts on each rod.  Crank 'em down a bit then tighten them against each other (jamb nuts).  Now the rod is captured in the cabinet and you won't have to 'fish' for the cabinet supports ever again either.

As I recall on the last Ranger I did... there was a potential interference issue with the jamb nuts on at least one of the long bolts.  So eyeball everything through the cabinet before you power up.

73, Bill  N2BC

[KA1ZGC]

While you're at it, look for any exposed voltages in the vicinity of the screw. If you're particularly close to any, slipping a bit of heat-shrink tubing (or any heat-tolerant insulator you've got handy) over the shaft is not a bad idea.

Personally, I prefer wing-nuts to anything else because it eliminates any need for tools (and chances to mangle the paint) just to get the rig's pants down; but that's just a matter of preference.

All that really matters is having something there to hold its pants up when you're not playing Rig Doctor! 

[w3jn]

Someone sells replacements on eBay regularly.

[AB2EZ]

From the Listserv.tempe.gov boatanchor archives:

http://listserv.tempe.gov/admin/WA.EXE?A2=ind0702&L=boatanchors&F=P&P=1902

Finding some original long tie bolts for EFJ cabinets is roughly equivalent to finding a mint Ranger II in the original box at the Goodwill store.

Solution: Contact Cal Eustaquio, N6KYR/8 in Lansing, Michigan, email [log in to unmask] He makes replacement long tie bolts for the Ranger and Valiant/Pacemaker using 1/4" all-thread with a nice slotted screwhead and collar assembled to one end. The ones for the Pacemaker (and all the other "big" EFJ boxes like the Valiant, J-500, T-Bolt, Invader) are about 2" longer than those for the Ranger.

However, being all-thread, Cal's bolts are a bit larger diameter than the EFJ originals which were unthreaded except at the last inch or so. Therefore, on the Pacemaker, the right side bolt may interfere with a couple of the coil slug adjusting screws that stick out the side of the crystal oscillator deck. I think that perhaps the originals, with their slightly smaller shaft diameter, would have just cleared the slug adjusting screws even if they were adjusted quite a ways out of the form.

There are (at least) three options than come to mind to deal with this problem:

1. Change the fixed capacitors such that the coil adjusting screws don't have to be extended so far to tune properly and therefore don't hit the long tie bolt (certainly the most elegant option, but only for the most anal of us restoration freaks). 2. Don't bother with installing the right hand long tie bolt --mount a similar headed short screw in the cabinet hole so it looks "finished", or leave it out altogether. Not elegant, but minimum effort. The other three long tie bolts do a pretty good job of keeping the cabinet attached to the front panel. 3. Find some original tie bolts, or at least one for the right side position (a good solution, but see opening wisecrack above).

73 de Stu W7FE Phoenix

[W3SLK]

I have made them up by using rod, threading it and silver soldering a screw head to the rod. You would never know the difference unless you were the ultimate collector. I had the guys in our machine shop help me out. I took a short screw with flat head and tapered it. Then I drilled a (very) small hole in rod to accomodate the screw. Then soldered.

[Rick K5IAR]

A couple of years ago I bought some of the long bolts from Cal for the Ranger I and they worked great.  They look very close to the original screw heads used.

Rick/K5IAR

[nq5t]

Finding some original long tie bolts for EFJ cabinets is roughly equivalent to finding a mint Ranger II in the original box at the Goodwill store.

I have one of those -- well, actually I found it at Salvation Army -- $10 for the old thing.  The box was still sealed.

(kidding) .. but wouldn't that be a nice find 

Grant/NQ5T

[WA1HZK]

How about some rod and a nice acorn nut? That would probably work OK.
Keith
WA1HZK

[WB3LEQ]

I have seen wooden cable spools that have four retaining bolts that looked like they would be a close match.  Check with your local electrical supply house before they toss them into their dumpster.

[w0ng]

Try this also.....

Under the bright plated acorn nut, put a "sealing" flat washer (you'll find them at your local home supply store hardware section) the kind that has a metal flat washer with a neoprene flat washer permanently attached to it. Typically used to attach corrugated metal roof panels, etc.

I used a #10 sealing washer under the tie bolts AND under the 20 screws that attach the cabinet to the chassis rear panel. Box of 100 runs about $4.50.

No more broken, chipped cabinet paint as the screws & tie bolts tighten down. Ya gotta love it!

Bill
w0ng

[W9GT]

10-24 threaded rod, a 3/4" 10-24 coupling nut, and a 1/2" #10 rack screw.

Cut the rod to length, and then use the coupling nut to attach a large head #10 rack-type screw thru the back of the cabinet....looks very similar to original long bolts with large head.

Rod and coupling nut available at your local Rural King or other Farm store.... or Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

73,  Jack, W9GT

[N4JOY]

Thank you so much!!!  I appreciate all the excellent suggestions!