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Johnson Viking II Stuff




 
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Author Topic: Johnson Viking II Stuff  (Read 23380 times)
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AF9J
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« on: November 20, 2007, 11:44:23 AM »

Since there was a good chance my "I Got an Offer I Couldn't Refuse"  topic was going to stray  from QSO related topics, into technical stuff, I've decided to continue it here.  As I mentioned in my original thread, I'd post photos.  Here they are.  As you can tell from the front panel, it has had some mods done to it.  It also has a power cord with the ground installed on it.  BTW would anybody happen to know the part number for the mic plug that will mate with my mic jack?




73,
Ellen - AF9J


* Front of Viking II.jpg (211.58 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 1031 times.)

* InsideViking II.jpg (234.64 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 1393 times.)

* Mic Jack Viking II.jpg (197.12 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 830 times.)
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2007, 11:56:16 AM »

You should be able to tack solder the plate leads on the 807 caps.
The head radiator caps really don't sink much heat off the plate since tie connection is a very thin wire, unlike a 4-1000A. A stock V2 had little clips like you would see in a TV set.
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WD8BIL
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« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2007, 12:37:17 PM »

Hard to see the mic connector in the fotos Ellen. Is it a 2 or 4 pinner?

Right of the bat, loose the screen regulator.
I'll check the junkbox for plate caps.
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AF9J
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« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2007, 12:46:56 PM »

Hi Buddly,

The mic plug I need, is a 2 pin male with shield.  In other words, it's like the style of plug my Cheyenne had.  If they eran't available anymore, I'll do what Rodger, WQ9E suggested, and replace the present jack on the Viker, with a 1/4" stereo, like my Swan had.  Thanks for the offer of a plate, but that's OK.  Rodger is sending one to me in the mail.

73,
Ellen - AF9J   
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2007, 12:47:55 PM »

looks like a "2" holer..........  try rat shack ...........  klc
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nq5t
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« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2007, 01:30:27 PM »

Quote
You should be able to tack solder the plate leads on the 807 caps.

RF Parts has the correct plate cap connectors (ceramic), and they are quite inexpensive.

Grant/NQ5T
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WQ9E
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« Reply #6 on: November 20, 2007, 03:15:50 PM »

Ellen,

The plate cap and a 22 ohm resistor went out in the mail this morning, hopefully it will be there by Saturday given the holiday delays.  I had a matching pair of nice looking plastic encased plate caps from a Valiant I was planning to send you, they have the resistors built in and sealed in plastic.  Of course one of the resistors was open and they are a pain to cut open and repair so I sent a regular cap like the ones used in my Viking 2.

73, Rodger WQ9E
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AF9J
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« Reply #7 on: November 20, 2007, 03:18:07 PM »

Thanks Roger! Smiley

Ellen - AF9J
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W1GFH
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« Reply #8 on: November 20, 2007, 03:59:38 PM »

Hi Buddly,

The mic plug I need, is a 2 pin male with shield.  In other words, it's like the style of plug my Cheyenne had.  If they eran't available anymore, I'll do what Rodger, WQ9E suggested, and replace the present jack on the Viker, with a 1/4" stereo, like my Swan had.  Thanks for the offer of a plate, but that's OK.  Rodger is sending one to me in the mail.

73,
Ellen - AF9J  

As I recall the original Vike II mic connection was the old Amphenol 2501, so be advised there is no need to stay with the 2 pin style.



Quote
As you can tell from the front panel, it has had some mods done to it.

Whoops, didn't read that. OK, never mind. I bet the two-pin mic jack is there because the rig has been modded with T/R switching.
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #9 on: November 20, 2007, 04:12:39 PM »

2 pin was used in the V2 CDC.
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ve6pg
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« Reply #10 on: November 20, 2007, 10:58:08 PM »

...u can use "plumbers tape" for the plate caps, till ya get others...looks cleaner inside than my viker...
  ellen..do u have a vfo fer it?   tim...sk...
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AF9J
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« Reply #11 on: November 20, 2007, 11:55:10 PM »

Yes I do Tim,

I'm going to use my Heahkit VF-1 with it.

Ellen - AF9J
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kb2vxa
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« Reply #12 on: November 21, 2007, 07:35:56 AM »

Hi Ellen and all,

I don't know if the numbers have changed but when the rig was new that mic connector was the Amphenol MCF-2 so the plug would be the MCM-2. The stock items are MCF-1 and MCM-1 respectively.

Happiness is a big... Viking.
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73 de Warren KB2VXA
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AF9J
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« Reply #13 on: November 21, 2007, 09:11:33 AM »

Thanks for the info guys. Smiley  BTW per Jim's, W5JO's suggestion, I checked behind the back of the front panel.  The BNCs are not hooked up.  Jim thinks that the BNCs and the two holes over the meter, may have been from mods (that were undone) for MARS use.  I'm going to try (desparately) to see if I can get it going for this weekend, since it sounds like many of us are going to be on-the air, with the extended Turkey Day weekend.  I may just go with a 1/4" stereo jack for the mic. Oh, I forgot to mention, not only have the rectifiers been solid stated, but it also has a 3-prong grounded AC plug installed.

73,
Ellen - AF9J
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ve6pg
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« Reply #14 on: November 21, 2007, 11:23:14 AM »

...ellen..ya never know, those bnc connectors might be for a scope pick-up, or headfone monitor.  both ideas are here on the web page some where...maybe it was for a digital readout, on a freq counter. you certainly could use them for any of these things...gud luk, and i will be listening 3700-3735kc...tim...sk...
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Ed-VA3ES
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« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2007, 11:41:51 AM »

Ellen, the part you need is an Amphenol 80MC2M 2-pin mic connector.

They are made now by WPI. Available at any large parts house. All Electronics has them too.

I can send you one gratis, as I have many.
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AF9J
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« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2007, 09:24:07 PM »

Well, I got the plate cap I needed (thanks Rodger!).  I cleaned out the Viking II big time.  It sure was dusty!  I also took off the bottom cover (are they sure 18 screws are enough? Wink ), and cleaned under the chassis. Oh, I forgot to mention that I also took off the tubes and vacuumed the tube sockets, and sprayed DeOxit on the switches (moving them through their ranges).

I noticed when I looked under the chassis, that a couple of mods were made.  the two, 30W, 30 ohm resistors had cut leads.  Is this one of th audio mods I briefly read about?  Also, a couple of leads were cut from the 15 mFd capacitor, near the power cord.  Since the cord has been grounded, I wonder if that's why they were cut.  I couldn't seen any evidence of a relay, so I'm not so sure the PTT mod has been done.  I've included some photos for your perusal.  At the present time, I have the filaments powered up, so I can try to reform to some extent, the few remaining paper capacitors that are in it.

73,
Ellen - AF9J   


* 2 white resistors with cut leads.jpg (216.86 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 711 times.)

* 15 mfd with cut leads and possible relay coils.jpg (219.03 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 649 times.)

* Bottom view.jpg (213.62 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 665 times.)
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The Slab Bacon
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« Reply #17 on: November 25, 2007, 12:43:56 AM »

I couldn't seen any evidence of a relay, so I'm not so sure the PTT mod has been done. 

In your picture of the 2 white sand block resistors, there is a relay right next to the 160m in/out shaft. The other 2 pictures are a bit too fuzzy to tell what is going on when you blow them up. I guess you'll have to look at the skizmatic and find out what has been done. Looks like Hammy Hambone has struck again!! all in all the V-2 is a pretty simple tx to troubleshoot. There isnt all that much to them.
                                                                       The Slab Bacon
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WA1GFZ
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« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2007, 08:47:23 AM »

You need 2 poles to switch AC to the HV transformer and the other to close the Key line. The V2 CDC put a set of contacts across the key jack and the other across the HV AC front panel switch. the CDC put 2 diodes across the bias winding to make about 100 volts DC. A small low voltage transformer could be mounted to operate at other voltages. Then a relay is required to switch the antenna between the TX and RX.
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AF9J
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« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2007, 09:16:04 AM »

Well, I powered up the filaments for a few hours to burn things in since the Viking II sat for so long. So far so good.  Sugar, my little Tortie cat sure liked the heat from the tubes!  I had to put a towel on top of it to keep her and Sarah away from any HV stuff.  After I did that, Sugar curled up on top of the Vike II while it was powered up, and conked out for a long nap.  I realized a little while ago, that even though I don't have the mic plug yet (and at this time I'm feeling too lazy to rip out the old one Wink ), I could still power it up on CW, to run more checks.  Also, in all likelihood, keying it up on CW, would activate any PTT relay in the radio. I'll do that later on. Since the radio sat unused for years,  I've powered up the filaments again for a few more hours.  Here's a photo of Sugar basking in the Viking II's warmth.

73,
Ellen - AF9J


* Sugar enjoying heat from Viking II Nov. 24, 2007.jpg (212.35 KB, 1600x1200 - viewed 593 times.)
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WBear2GCR
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #20 on: November 25, 2007, 09:51:26 AM »

Ellen,

Be very sure to check the status of the caps that filter the LV supply!

On the Viker II that I had, they were shorted, and did not blow the fuse, and did not cause overheating immediately - it just smoked the LV transformer after I left it on for a few hours and walked away. (yeah, sure, everything is ok.)

On rebuild I put a fuse in the ground side of the *secondary* of the LV supply to make certain that that supply would not be frying the iron ever again. You might want to take the expedient of putting a fuse holder in there. I was able to mount one in the existing hole next to the transformer itself.

BTW, use the flash on ur digital camera to shoot those pix, and put the camera on "flower" (closeup) mode as well....

           _-_-bear
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WBear2GCR
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #21 on: November 25, 2007, 09:56:08 AM »

Nooooo, nooooo, nooooo....

Photo 2: those are not relay coils. That's the AC input filter! be careful there. The caps that go across it ought to be evident, unless they're on the reverse side. I replaced mine with 1kv film caps, the old ceramics are likely toasty at this point.

The cut filter cap is exactly what I was talking about in the previous post!!
Ur. gonna have to replace all the wax/paper caps in the rig.

Good source? Those ubiquitous computer monitors that people are chucking out all over the place! They usually have small value film caps with good voltage ratings and a set of electrolytics rated at >400vdc...

Oh, do NOT run the rig with anything on top of it - it is shy on cooling as is.

            _-_-bear
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #22 on: November 25, 2007, 10:06:35 AM »

The resistors with "cut leads"?

Are they cut or is that two resistors in series??

That's the speech amp section.

Btw, there is also a wax cap that needs replacment hiding just under that large oil (8mfd) grey cap shown to the LR in that same image...

BAMA - a link from the banner menu here in amfone.net has the complete manual and schematic.

And, for everyone taking jpegs of equipment here, always use the closeup setting (the flower icon thing), and throw as much evenly dispersed light at it as you can (artificial or natural or both) and THEN set the flash option so that the flash is NOT on AUTO, and will flash (the lightning bolt icon) - then you'll get a bright, clear, shadow free image!  Grin
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AF9J
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« Reply #23 on: November 25, 2007, 10:11:57 AM »

Bear,  My camera is a cheapo pinhole type digital that I'm not sure has the "close-in function". I'll check  The two 30 ohm, 30W ceramic resisitors each have one lead cut.  They are wired in parallel. So, in effect they are floating.  Almost all of the old paper capacitors have been removed BTW.

73,
Ellen - AF9J
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W1GFH
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« Reply #24 on: November 25, 2007, 03:27:30 PM »

Here's a photo of Sugar basking in the Viking II's warmth.

Cats like to "claim" radio gear. Dunno why. Maybe they think it is an elaborate heating pad built just for them.

Wouldn't cover it with a towel while powered up though. This was the era when rigs didn't have cooling fans. Top cover perforations and rear louvers were theoretically intended to dissipate heat.
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