An offer I couldn't refuse

[AF9J]

Hi Everybody,

As some of you may know, I have shown interest in getting on 160m AM (I've always had a soft spot for this band; since I was General in college in the 80s, 75 has been going long pretty early at night, and oftentimes 160m has less noise for me than 75).  My Scout 680 is on the fritz, so I asked Rodger, WQ9E on Wednesday or Thursday, if he could list on this last week's Midwest Classic Net, that I was looking for a Viking, Viking 2, Scout 65, or Scout 66.  Unfortunately, on Friday, I found out that my car needed new front brakes (not surprising to me, since I had to replace the rears in July).  So I told Rodger to forget about it.

On Saturday morning, I got a call from Rodger, telling me that Tim, W9SWS was selling a Viking II for $75!  This is quite a bit less than they usually go for.  So, he figured I still might be interested in it.  He was right!!  It was an offer I couldn't refuse!  So, I got in touch with Tim, and on late Saturday afternoon I went scooting 100 miles to the Rockford, Illinois area to pick up a Viking II.   Tim has a killer radio location.  It's on top of a 200 or 300 foot hill.   He had mini Vortex Joe collection in his basement, and was selling 4 radios to make room.   Among the radios he was selling, were the Viking 2 I bought, a Valiant (already spoken for), and two DX-100s.  One of my reasons for choosing a Viking, is that it's at the limit of what I'm willing to lug (about 75-80 lbs).  Just for the heck of it, I asked Tim if I could give one of the DX-100s a heft test.  Nope!!  At 105 lbs, it's definitely more than I'm willing to carry.  My days of breaking my back (from when I lugged tube guitar amps to gigs), are over with.  I was able to carry my Vike up the basement stairs, and out to my car (Tim's back doesn't allow him to do much carrying).  I drove home, and lugged the Vike up to my apartment, getting an attack of exercise induced asthma (I have asthma) in the process (see what I mean about a Vike being the limit to what I'd lug?).

Cosmetically, it's about a 7 out of 10. There have been mods done to it:

Front - two holes were drilled in the front panel above the meter (Tim thinks that whoever owned it before him, used to run a freq. counter feed through these holes); there are two BNC connectors installed alongside of the meter (I think they made be to feed a scope to check modulation); the Switchcraft type, non-PTT mic jack as seen on DX-40s, DX-100s, and my Globe Scout is gone, and in its place is a 2 conductor w/shield (ala early Heathkits) mic jack. So, it's possible that a PTT mod was done.

Internally - it looks like the rectifiers have been solid stated, with the rectifiers being put into old metal 6L6 tube housings.  One of the plate clip leads for one of the modulators, is broken off and missing. 

I asked Tim if the Viking was working.  He said he didn't know, stating he'd never fired it up.  Oh well, you takes yer chances at $75.  Right now, I need to get the plate clip, and I need to clean out the rig.  It's pretty dusty inside.  I don't have a variac, but I'd better do like I did with my Swan, and power it up for a few hours, to at least semi re-form any caps that are drying out.  Unlike my Cheyenne situation of two months ago, the Scout is not going bye-bye.  I (luckily) got my work bonus in the mail this weekend (it was a nice chunk of change).  I plan on using the Vike 2 for the low band stuff, and my Scout for 15 & 10m AM fun.  Well, I'd better get going.  Work beckons.  I'll try to post some photos when I get some time.

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[The Slab Bacon]

Now, thats a real transmitter!! People will hear you now, little 10w pea shooters just dont cut it on 75m am.

[AF9J]

Yup,

And believe it or not, I checked my radio table, and I actually have enough room for it, and my other gear!  I have a question for you experts out there (sorry if this is bordering on the technical for this forum section).  Is the 100W output of the Viking 100W of carrier, or 100W PEP?  The reason I'm asking, is that if it's carrier, then I may have to replace my T-match and my watt/SWR meter.  My T-match is a Mighty Fine Junk, roller inductor one rated at 300W, and my wattmeter is a Diamond SX-1000, rated at 200W.  Any input on this situation?

73,
Ellen - AF9J
Slaving away at work, checking circuit board assemblies

[The Slab Bacon]

Ellen,
       Itz 100w of carrier. (or whatever lower output you load it for)
A 300w mighty fine junk might do it it yer antenner isnt too far out of resonance. If not, lookz like some building is in order.

[WD8BIL]

Only 1 wat to find out !!

[AF9J]

I just wonder if the Balun will take the power.  Since I run basically an endfed, I don't want to smoke the internal balun.

Ellen - AF9J

[WQ9E]

Ellen,

Welcome to the "higher power" club!  Still need a plate clip?  I can drop one in the mail in the morning.

Rodger WQ9E

[WD8BIL]

If it's the typical "T" network tuner I don't think the balun is in use on and end-fed wire. Only when wired for balanced wire feed is the balun in the circuit.

[WQ9E]

Ellen,

I can't remember what antenna you are using and if you are using balanced feed and actually need a balun.  The Viking 2 has a very wide range matching network designed in so if your antenna isn't balanced and the reactance isn't way out there then you can probably use this without a matching network; particularly if you have a decent RF ground. 

Rodger WQ9E

[AF9J]

Hi Guys,

Yes, Rodger, I need the plate clip for the 813 (I think that's what Vikings use for the modulator) modulator tube.  Thanks.  As for my MFJ tuner - thanks for the info Buddly. I took a look at the .pdf manual at MFJ's website, and it does not use the balun, when you use an endfed wire. 

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[WD8BIL]

Also Ellen, The mod tubes are 807s.
Do you have the manual ? I have the PDF from BAMA. Its 16 meg. can ur email handle that ?

[The Slab Bacon]

A Viking 2 is a good salt of the earth workhorse. A pair of 6146s for finals, modded by a pair of 807s. I've had a few over the years. Carl, WA1KPD got my last 2 of them a while ago.

Do the 12AX7 / 6C4 audio mod and they sound pretty good as well.

                                                 The Slab Bacon

[AF9J]

I already have it from BAMA Buddly.  But, thanks for the offer.  I just have to print it out, and put it in a 3-ring binder for easy reading.  Also, thanks for the reminder that 807s are used for the modulater.  I still have half a mind to go to a tuner that can handle more power, so I don't have to worry about arcing on 160.

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[WQ9E]

Hi Ellen,

I will drop an 807 plate cap connector in the mail tomorrow morning, let me know if you find anything else missing/broken.

If you go to another tuner and you aren't going to always use a balanced feedline then I really like the reversible L.  I homebrewed one using a roller inductor from a Gates broadcast transmitter and a 1500PF vacuum variable.  I use one of the tap switches from a BC-375 (available from Fair) for reversing the L to choose high or low impedance output and another tap switch allows me to insert additional fixed capacitors in parallel with the vacuum variable.  A final tap switch is used as an antenna switch (you can tell I really like those BC-375 tap switches!).  With the antennas I am using with it there is plenty of "puffs" available in the vacuum variable but being able to switch in fixed units allows for faster QSY instead of cranking the vacuum variable.  One nice thing about the inverted L with vintage gear is that it acts as a lowpass filter.  Ten Tec (among others) uses the reversible L design for their tuners.

I got the roller inductor from Ebay and the vacuum variable and turns counter dials came from Max Gain Systems (very nice to deal with!).  As I recall, total cost for me was around $200 and it will definitely handle the legal limit plus.

Rodger WQ9E

[WQ9E]

Also,  until you get the plate cap pull the 807's while testing.  Screen voltage without plate voltage = dead 807!

Rodger WQ9E

[AF9J]

Hi Rodger,

Thanks for the info on pulling the 807s before testing (until I get the plate cap).  Yeah, I'm about 70/30 for going to another tuner.  As it is, my MFJ-969, can just handle loading on 160m.  With the extra power a Vike has, I'm worried about arcing, which I've experienced in the past with smaller tuners running at their matching limt, with 100W of CW on 160.   

73,
Ellen - AF9J
Off to help out at the cat shelter

[W1RKW]

Ellen,
I remember lugging my Vike 2 from the guy I purchased it from.  The seller lived on Long Island and I was in New London CT.  I took the ferry over to meet him.  In order to carry the rig the distance I had to go, I had to modify my external frame backpack to carry the thing.  As a walk-on ferry passenger I had to park my car about a 1/4 mile from the ferry slip and walk onto the boat.  So with back pack in hand I met the seller.  I strapped the baby to the frame and I was set and took the ferry back to home.  Lugging that SOB on my backpack was tough when I had to hike back to the car.  Back then I was in to  hiking on regular basis but typically carried 40 or so pounds.  Having that chunk of weight for a 1/4 mile was a real test.  What was more interesting were the looks I got from other passengers on the ferry when hauling the thing home.  They looked like they never had seen a radio before.

Good luck with the V2.  It's  neat rig.

[W1GFH]

Hi Rodger,

Thanks for the info on pulling the 807s before testing (until I get the plate cap).  Yeah, I'm about 70/30 for going to another tuner.  As it is, my MFJ-969, can just handle loading on 160m.  With the extra power a Vike has, I'm worried about arcing, which I've experienced in the past with smaller tuners running at their matching limt, with 100W of CW on 160.   

73,
Ellen - AF9J
Off to help out at the cat shelter

Dunno the specs on your MFJ (300W PEP?), but a 100% modulated Viking II could produce PEP in excess of the tuner's rating on voice peaks (400W PEP) = arcing and sparking.

[w5omr]

Is the 100W output of the Viking 100W of carrier, or 100W PEP?  The reason I'm asking, is that if it's carrier, then I may have to replace my T-match and my watt/SWR meter.  My T-match is a Mighty Fine Junk, roller inductor one rated at 300W, and my wattmeter is a Diamond SX-1000, rated at 200W.  Any input on this situation?

100w of CARRIER.  (typically carrier x 4 for PEP)

You need to find items now that are rated for 500w PEP (or better, just in case)

[Ed-VA3ES]

100W of AM is equivalent to 400W PEP.  A 300W tuner will arc for sure.  My Vectronics 300 W tuner sure did!  You may need something like a Johnson Matchbox, or a 1KW tuner.   I use a Dentron Super Tuner 160AT. Handles almost everything, except 1KW AM.

[AF9J]

I was afraid that might be the case.    I'm looking into a Palstar 1200W differential L tuner.  It's the model AT1KP.  Still, I'm mystified.  How can a Viking 2, using only 2, 6146s do up to 400W PEP?  Even my Kenwood TS-820, will only do 125-130W PEP max. And, that's with a set of 6146Bs, which are supposed to be capable of more power than the Plain Jane 6146, or 6146As.

Ellen - AF9J

[W9GT]

Great news about the Viking 2!  I recommend that you build your own tuner.  If you are using an end-fed antenna...a simple L network will work nicely.  Find a roller inductor and a healthy variable capacitor and that will do the job.  Those components are plentiful and often can be obtained on Ebay for cheap prices.  Much cheaper and more rugged than most of the "new" tuners that use pretty lightweight parts.

73, Jack, W9GT

[AF9J]

Yeah, I'd love to make a tuner Jack & Rodger.  L-matches are gravy to build.  But, I have no metal enclosure, and living in an apartment, no tools for making one.

73,
Ellen - AF9J

[KB2WIG]

             " I have no metal enclosure,"

You could use metal fencing to build a farady cage...   Homely Despot has the means to cut stuff to order; scrap wood to build the unit on.  Ya can do it.......  my po mans tuna for my endfed is a coil stapled to scrap plywood and a 'small' cap  (I run P/W) with no box at all.........  klc

[wa2zdy]

Oh yeah, the Dentron 160-10AT is a good one.  The internal balun is suspect but you won't use that with an end fed wire anyway.

The Globe Scout 680 brings back fond memories.  My first transmitter was homebrew, my second was the Scout.   

Enjoy!