75 / 40 meter fan dipole

[Steve - K4HX]

I've had multiple antennas up for more than 10 years with connectors. Zero moisture problems. It's all about doing it right.

[K1JJ]

This be what I is talking about:   (Overkill maybe)

http://www.commscope.com/catalog/doc/pdf/2004/Weatherproofing_Kit_for_Connectors_and_Antennas.pdf

T

[N2DTS]

That is what I use at work.
Makes a mess of everything, some guys put tape on first but it does not seal as well.
It gets all over everything and sticks, smears like grease.

It can ruin connectors just because you can not get it off.

I just loop the coax over the center connector, clamp, then solder.
Never had a failure and I am using the same coax on both antenna's for the last 30 years, radio shack rg8x mini foam.
I guess radio shack coax is history, its a sprint store now and had almost nothing in it.

[WB4AM]

Ken: Your energy and enthusiasm is inspiring.
If you are willing to purchase, the Budwig HQ-1 is strong but light as a feather. Many vendors sell them.
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/antsup/1782.html

I used to climb, them I learned about slingshots and bows.  

Thank you Steve on your Positive Thoughts on the energy and an enthusiasm!  Its the ADHD that helps and hurts me along the way!
I have seen these connectors in the past and wondered how they hold up.  Thanks you Steve

Here is another one that I have had great luck with.  The SO-239 is somewhat recessed and works very well.  
Its the model 801
https://thewireman.com/prodpix.html
See photo's attached
Joe-GMS

This one looks really sturdy and I like how it covers the connector.  It also gives other ideas and thoughts on such a device for home brewing.
Thanks you Joe.

Why have a connector up there at all, just solder the coax to the antenna.
I am not fond of connectors outside.
They always seem to get nasty no matter how well water proofed.

I personally like using connectors most of the time. For one if the antenna needs changing out, no need for the portable solder iron.  When you splint the coax and connect it directly, don't you still need to seal it up?  I think either way works, it just the decision on the installer.  If the connector is well wrapped with electrical tape and then sealed with some sort of coax sealer or such and then re-tapped again to keep the coax seal from drying out there shouldn't be an issue.  If the connector is drooping downwards, I also start the tape from the bottom and work my way up, like shingles on a roof theory.  Same with the tape over the coax seal.

So maybe to each his and her own?  

This time around on this dipole I did not have any coax seal, so I used out-door caulk.  I taped the connections and then smeared caulk around the area of the connection. If I knew I was going to keep this dipole up for a long time, I would had waited and bought some coax seal.  But this is a temporary antenna installation until my house goes up for sale.

Quote below has been edited...

Nice mechanical connections. Looks strong.

I would also be sure that that gray dipole connector was well sealed inside so that the three eye bolts did not leak. (Or add some RTV to the outside entryways)

In general, electrical and mechanical splices of all kinds are the biggest failure points of most installations.
T

Hello Tom,

I can only hope it is mechanically strong.  I am actually using two bread board cutter back to back.  I thought they may be to thin for the cold and perhaps could crack in the winter.  I even thought about painting them to help keep the plastic from drying out over time, but my plans for the dipole to be installed is just temporary so it should be okay.

I did spray the 3/4 copper flatten tubing with a clear acrylic paint in hopes to slow the corrosion down.

I also wrapped tape around the gray cable many times and then smeared the out-door caulk through out the connection.  I could had smeared the caulk father down the cable where it is taped, but decided not to, again its temporary and it should hold up until I am ready to take it down.

"In general, electrical and mechanical splices of all kinds are the biggest failure points of most installations."

From my experience with connections working out in the field be it indoors or out, I totally agree Tom.  Sometimes fixing an issue is as simply as checking the connections first and finding that its the connections that is causing the issue.  One time there was a communication system that someone installed in a Dental office that did not work completely in all the operatories.  Many times a tech had gone there changing out different components and such and could not fix it.  My boss asked if I would be willing to go there on a Saturday.  I knew I was getting paid 250.00 no matter if it was 5 minutes of work or 5 hours.  So of course I said yes!

I first asked what has everyone had done so far to try to fix it?  No one spoke of checking the connections.

There was like ten communicators or so in line with one another.  Unfortunately I started from the beginning of the installation. But when I had gotten to the second from the last connection, there it was.  The red and the orange wire was reverse.  A very simple mistake especially wiring it in a dark ceiling.  But I rewired the red and orange wires and bang it all started to work like it should!

It took me 1 hour and 20 minutes to find it, but knowing I was getting 250.00 dollars I was smilingly all the way home!  It also made me a hero for a short time!

So connections are very important be it a sealed connections or a non-sealing connections.  So I again I totally agree.

Thank you Tom for your comments.

Ken




  

[WB4AM]

This be what I is talking about:   (Overkill maybe)

http://www.commscope.com/catalog/doc/pdf/2004/Weatherproofing_Kit_for_Connectors_and_Antennas.pdf

T

I too have always use this stuff.  I used to work for a Cell Company and they taught us how to used this stuff.  I like it the best out of anything I have ever used.

[K1JJ]

Good comments.

Yes, the clay can be messy to use sometimes, but it will last for decades with a terrific seal. If I need to replace it, I simply cut the splice out and start over with new connectors and clay, etc.   And, yes,  direct hardwired splices need to be sealed up just like connectors would.


The acid test is to visualize what a hurricane or severe thunderstorm would do to get into a connection. Wind and rain can go vertically upwards, so don't think rain always falls nicely downwards... :-)  Its almost like dipping the splice into a bowl of water.

Another consideration I have found is that a PL-259 connector is usually the first thing to smoke when running QRO and there is a high swr on the antenna, maybe due to ice or whatever. I have smoked many PL-259s over the years. In contrast, a direct hardwired connection will withstand the same abuse as the rest of the coax run.

Another failure I had:  There was a 2M Yagi up at 190'. I used the stock SO-239 connector on the antenna to mate to the PL-259 coax. After one year the swr was infinite. I climbed up there and found that the PL-259 threaded housing had blown apart. It was either lightning or water / ice got into the connection and froze.  I had used a clay seal, so I suspect it was lightning.  The rest of the coax and hardline was fine. So over the years, I have developed a bias against connectors that are exposed to the elements, though I realize that many guys use them successfully out there. I look at it as just one less thing to fail. Antenna maintenance on high towers can be a bitch, especially if it's needed  from Nov thru March.

T