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Author Topic: Good Digital Photos or Good Camera - Suggestions Please  (Read 12881 times)
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W1UJR
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« on: August 26, 2009, 09:07:05 AM »

Hello all,

I'm doing more and more digital photography today, and I'm pretty disappointed with my trusty old (2 years) Sony T-10 digital camera.

Much of my shooting is inside the radio barn, of old equipment, and the photo quality leaves a lot to be desired. Sure that some of it has to do with the lighting, but even outside my photos seem too light or dark, and inside they almost always seem to have a yellow cast.

Here is an example of a photo I took last night, you can see how "yellow" it looks, and not terribly clear.



Its sure not going to set the world on fire, nor will it do justice to the rig itself for any published or archived articles.

So some questions:

1) Is this lighting, or the camera? (My other Sony is not much better.)

2) Can I get away with incandescent lighting, or do I need some serious candlepower?

3) What do you think about the new GPS enabled cameras, nice to know where you're shooting, but
does it work?

4) What make/model camera do you suggest for general all around photography work?

5) Other tips/suggestions?

Here is one I took inside at the AWA Conference, is this my camera or just the lighting?
Was inside one of the hotel ballrooms, where the equipment contest was being held.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2009, 10:21:03 AM »

Nikon D40, D60 or D90. Pick your price/resolution.
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2009, 01:41:35 PM »

For some reason I only see a red X where your photo should be. I'm using IE8.

White balance should be in auto
And the resolution setting for the cam should be the highest and set for SuperFine, if you have this option.
Your Sony camera model doesn't reveal the megapixel number.
I have seen great pix from cameras with 3Megapixels, even reduced to email size still looking good

Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
W1UJR
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« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2009, 02:12:20 PM »

Try now Fred, the hosting site for the photos was off line.
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2009, 02:20:18 PM »

Bruce:
The picture links when copied to a browser, show "unauthorized" to view using IE. With Firefox, no pictures or "X in a box" appears in your message.
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Pete, WA2CWA - "A Cluttered Desk is a Sign of Genius"
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2009, 02:23:50 PM »

Bruce

I didn't see any link.  You can go two ways with digital cameras.  DSLR or there are some nice high end Zoom (no detached lens).  Here's a nice place to look at different cameras with excellent reviews

http://dpreview.com/

I use a Nikon 5700 and am quite happy with it.

Al
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2009, 02:59:32 PM »

Pls keep trying to get link for your pics so we can see what the problem is. If it's a Sony DSC T-10 then it's a 7.8 megapixel camera. Should be top notch pics. Sony is pretty good stuff.

Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2009, 03:28:30 PM »

For any camera you buy, make sure it uses readily available/sized batteries, such as AAA or AA, rechargable or otherwise. 

Many cameras now come with a variety of odd ball square, rectangular, thick or thin and uncommon voltage types of very expensive batteries. 

The one in my Sony went south and the replacement runs $30 to 50 even at Wallmart.  I noticed that I'd gotten the last one on the rack.

I guess since the film racket is gone, now it's very expensive batteries turn. 
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RICK  *W3RSW*
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2009, 04:26:28 PM »

Nikon P90.  It lists for $400 but it takes very good pictures and is versatile. It has image stabilization.  It's sort of a combination between a point and shoot and a DSLR.
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Bob
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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2009, 04:40:59 PM »

Try Amazon.com for second sources of the expensive weird batteries.   I got a huge battery for my digital camcorder that normally went for $80 at less than $10. Of course it was not made by Canon.
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WQ9E
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« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2009, 06:54:43 PM »

Bruce,

I couldn't see your link/photo but the off color cast is usually a problem with white balance/color temperature.  I shoot in RAW format (instead of jpeg) and I can easily correct this when I "process" the photos.  With most software you can either adjust color temperature or identify a true white area in the photo for the software to use as a reference.  Whatever camera you buy I would suggest getting used to shooting RAW format to get the most out of your camera.

Lighting is very important to getting the best photos.  I admit I often do not take the time to set up proper lighting for vintage gear shots because most of them are images I won't do much with.  Since the gear is not going to move, you will also benefit from using a good tripod.  One of the most important things in getting good photos of a piece of gear is having sufficient depth of field so that the entire area of interest is in proper focus and all parts are properly/equally lit.  Depth of field decreases as you have to open up the lens (F stop) to provide sufficient exposure.  You can increase available light, decrease shutter speed, or increase sensor "sensitivity" to allow a higher F stop.  Using higher sensitivity is roughly equivalent to using faster film on the old "analog" cameras but instead of increased grain you get increased noise.  On the other hand, in some situations you want to highlight only one aspect (i.e. the gorgeous dial on some receivers) while softening or blurring the rest and opening up the lens allows you to accomplish this goal.  The focal length of the lens and your distance from the gear is another factor controlling depth of field.  Most SLR type cameras open the lens iris to its widest setting for ease of framing and focus (brightest view) but have a depth of field preview which will step the lens down to the value that will be used in the shot so you can see what is in focus.

I own a little "point and shoot" for the times that I don't want to carry a large camera.  But most of my shooting is with a couple of Canon 1DM2 and 1DSM2 bodies with a selection of lenses.  These are large camera bodies and certainly not for everybody.  But the smaller SLR (single lens reflex) cameras are much more versatile than the typical point and shoot. Once you get used to your camera you want to have one that allows manual selection of aperture value and shutter speed in addition to the various program modes so that you can really take advantage of the capabilities.  If you buy an SLR, ultimately you will have more money invested in glass than in the camera body itself.  This is not a bad thing because as electronics improve you can keep your good quality glass and use it with a newer body in the same camera family.

There are a lot of choices out there and I would suggest taking a look at some of the review sites and then try one out in person for feel and heft.

Be very careful as there are a lot of scam type camera stores online which engage in various forms of sleazy and misleading activities.  I buy most of my gear and supply from B&H but there are other reputable stores.  Realize the "gray market" is alive and well in the photo gear market and among other things the gray market items do not come with a U.S. warranty.  You can find some very good buys on used gear and B&H has a pretty large department and I have traded in gear there before.

This post grew longer than I intended but I hope some of it is useful.

P.S.  The most difficult situation to deal with is when different parts of the scene are illuminated with different types of light sources.  This can be a real issue with vintage gear if your overhead lighting is fluorescent combined with the incandescent lighting of the dials and perhaps a camera flash.  Each has its own color temperature emphasizing different areas so to keep things simple strong incandescent lighting is the easiest way to photograph gear in operation.

Rodger WQ9E
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Rodger WQ9E
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« Reply #11 on: August 26, 2009, 06:59:14 PM »

I use a Nikon D40X which is very easy to understand.  It and a SB 600 flash attachment is all that I need out to 40 ft. or so.  

Be sure your white balance is correct.  In the manual for the camera you should find a way to adjust white balance and color intensity.  Color intensity will be for incandescent, florescent, outdoors, starlight, portrait, etc.  If under 1 ft. use the closeup setting.  White balance may require you use something like a white piece of paper and let the camera automatically adjust itself before you shoot good pictures.

Are you setting the flash to respond right?  Be sure of that.  Sony cameras are usually good equipment unless something has happened to it.
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W1UJR
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« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2009, 06:38:37 AM »

Sorry about the photos fellows, seems that my hosting site is being a bit temperamental.

Let's try again, will post here.

http://gallery.me.com/brucehowes#100234&view=grid&bgcolor=black&sel=2









* web.jpg (222.67 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 286 times.)

* web-1.jpg (299.87 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 267 times.)
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WQ9E
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« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2009, 07:12:07 AM »

Hi Bruce,

I am having a bit of a problem posting an edited version of your photo so one last try with a corrected white balance and a bit of noise reduction. 

It is much easier to get good photos outside when you have plenty of light from a single color temperature source.  Mr. Bee showed up at the right time for some pretty good lighting.

Rodger WQ9E


* revised.JPG (203.35 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 304 times.)

* bee.JPG (755.16 KB, 1761x1361 - viewed 282 times.)
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Rodger WQ9E
WB2YGF
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« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2009, 09:21:02 AM »

Wonder if your Sony is Minolta based.  I have a Minolta Z1 and the color is really bad.  About a year after I got it, Sony took over Minolta to start their DSLR division.

That said, I have Sony's first 30GB Hard Drive based Hi Def widescreen camcorder HDR-SR1 AVC and the color is very good.  It also has a 4MP still camera mode that I use so I don't have to carry both a still camera and a camcorder.

I have a little Panasonic 5MP 7X zoom with image stabilization that has pretty good color too
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W1JS
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« Reply #15 on: August 28, 2009, 12:13:32 PM »

Bruce,

Most of the digital cameras today do pretty good adjustments on the white balance.  Looking at the ballroom picture, I am wondering if the camera took its exposure and white balance settings from the bottom right - you might notice that the exposure and and color is pretty good at that spot.  I don't usually like to use flash and have been amazed how the digital cameras I have used, even an inexpensive ($150) Canon, adjust for the light.  I have taken a lot of inside pictures with different lighting and no flash with the digitals with good results.  No more yellowing from incandescents and no more greening from flourescents.  I would play with the settings on the Sony before you give up on it.  Hey, it ain't like the film days - you aren't wasting film! 

As far as suggestions, I have to admit that I am a Nikon fan (bought my first Nikon film camera 35 years ago).  My wife and both I have film SLR's and now both have DSLR's (D200 & D80).  We recently bought my daughter a Nikon Coolpix P90 and that is a neat camera with a big zoom (we "test drove" it before giving it to her).  I like to take candids, so the shutter lag on some digitals drives me crazy.  My first pictures of my grandchild with an early Fuji finepix digital (S602) were of the back of her head.  I bought a inexpensive small Canon (A580) about 1.5 years ago because the DSLR was just too big and expensive to carry around all the time, but again the shutter lag drove me nuts (the quality of the pictures was very good, though).  So, sick of listening to me complain, my beautiful wife offered to buy me another small digital for my birthday this year, a Nikon Coolpix P6000.  Lots of features packed into a small package. 

The P6000 has the GPS feature.  I have not got it to lock up, yet.  Probably because it spends of most its time inside, so can't tell you much about the feature, except that it is a battery eater. 

My criteria for a digital camera is restricted because I insist on a viewfinder.  It is what I am used to and I can't see the displays in the bright sunlight. 

You have a Hunts Photo in So. Portland.  Drop by and testdrive some models. 

If you have not decided by Hosstraders, look me up.  I am sure to have the Nikons with me. 

Good luck,
Jack
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73 de
W1JS
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #16 on: August 28, 2009, 01:11:45 PM »

Thanks for the pics Bruce
Looks like white balance problem. Flash on automatic? Some cameras offer different levels of flash. Go through the set-up one more time. Something definitely doesn't look right in your pics.

Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
Ian VK3KRI
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« Reply #17 on: August 29, 2009, 09:27:22 PM »

I'm not a camera person, but  the picture was taken on flash and auto colour and I'd assume the colour balance is set to the flash in  that case. The incandesant lights lamps have come out with the typical orangey hue.

Since some annoying issues in the past with auto color balance with my old camera, I usually leave it set to sunlight and tweak later . Is the best option or should I use some other color balance setting as 'default' ?

                                                   
                                                                                Ian VK3KRI
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #18 on: August 29, 2009, 10:00:17 PM »

The spectrum of incandescent lights is skewed towards red. This will make stuff look more yellow than it should indoors.
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W1UJR
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« Reply #19 on: August 30, 2009, 07:10:46 AM »

Thanks for the suggestions and tips fellows.
Checked the little Sony which took those photos, all settings are at default.
I think is more a matter of asking the camera to do more than it really can, its one of the small point and shoot models, bought more for convenience than anything else.
You can see by the photo below, its a pretty simple camera.



Was looking at the Nikons that you suggested Steve, D60 and D90.
D90 seems like its a little more bulky/large, but clearly has more functions.
What do you think of the new Nikon D-5000? Seems like a good mix of both units.
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k4kyv
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« Reply #20 on: August 30, 2009, 05:06:25 PM »

One thing to be careful about is modifying a photo in .jpg format and then saving it.  Every time you "save" a modification, it re-compresses the image, so it loses some definition.

I understand there are ways around this so that you can modify the image without  re-saving it, but I don't do enough work with images to know how to do it.  I don't think merely copying the image changes it.

Also, be aware of the distinction between a .jpg and .jpeg file.  I always thought they were the same thing, but some time ago I tried to post an image as an attachment on this forum.  I got an error message that I could not post in the format I was using.  I  checked and the image was something.jpeg.  I manually deleted the "e" in the the extension, changing it to .jpg and the image file still opened normally.  So I retried attaching the .jpg file and it worked.
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Steve - WB3HUZ
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« Reply #21 on: August 30, 2009, 06:46:12 PM »

If you plan multiple edits, just use a bit-mapped file format with out any lossy compression. TIFF is a pretty safe bet.
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #22 on: August 30, 2009, 07:39:26 PM »

One big problem is expecting a built in flash to reach out more than 3-5 ft.  They just won't do it.  If you want pictures close up you need something with a macro lens and proper light.  If you want 10 ft. with no distortion then you need something that will accept an external flash.  That is why long distance focus photos look yellow.
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W1UJR
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« Reply #23 on: August 30, 2009, 08:19:46 PM »

Took Steve's advice, the Nikon D-90 is in my hands.

Shot some very basic photos outside the house today, right out of the box,
plan on trying it on radio gear after I read the 1" thick manual!  Wink

All I can say, is that it straps!

http://gallery.me.com/brucehowes#100242






http://gallery.me.com/brucehowes#100250







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« Reply #24 on: August 30, 2009, 09:57:32 PM »

Is that W1AW?  Cheesy
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Mike(y)/W3SLK
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