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Author Topic: Collins 30K-1 problem  (Read 3639 times)
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M0GHQ
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« on: December 30, 2020, 08:54:14 AM »

My Collins 30K-1 has a small problem, when I turn to Send in Operate, the mod current starts climbing after a few moments then the transmitter either cuts with a small plink sound or chatters loudly like a relay is trying to engage / disengage.
In Operate I have HT 2500V, output is around 275-300W mark into a dummy load on Phone, Plate 150mA, Grid approx 12mA and just over 45mA Mod plate (audio gain at zero). In Tune I have around 8 to 10mA of grid and 100mA of Plate the power out is around 100W and the transmitter is stable.
The transmitter has not been operated for at least 50 years and I have extensively rebuilt it. Maybe there is something that I have missed but don't think so.
73 Max, M0GHQ
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K3YA
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« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2020, 09:43:55 AM »

Is the tr relay coil energized by the bias supply?  If so so look there. 

I have two 30K's in my collection. I'll pull out the circuit diagram and check when I get a chance and check.
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WD5JKO
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WD5JKO


« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2020, 12:03:01 PM »

Attaching a 30K-1 schematic

* collins_30k-1.pdf (552.72 KB - downloaded 120 times.)
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M0GHQ
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« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2020, 12:24:35 PM »

I think it maybe a gassy 75TH modulator tube, see picture, the anode has heated excessively, opinions please and has anyone got one I could buy?
73 Max M0GHQ


* IMG_5510.JPG (2306.23 KB, 3899x3250 - viewed 273 times.)
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2020, 03:25:22 PM »

You can use 100TH or 100TL.

and you could substitute with a socket change the 4-125, wired for
triode connection. As these tubes are likely easier to source in your
part of the world, as may be Russian or Chinese tubes of this type or
similar.

                     _-_-bear
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
W2PFY
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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2020, 06:54:44 PM »

I would just slam a 100TH tube in there or use two 100th tubes to balance things out a bit. They are listed on eBay all the time and there may be plenty in England left over from WW2 from the Lend Lease Program. The filament current is the same so I don't see why they should not work?
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WD5JKO
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« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2020, 07:21:13 PM »

I would just slam a 100TH tube in there or use two 100th tubes to balance things out a bit. They are listed on eBay all the time and there may be plenty in England left over from WW2 from the Lend Lease Program. The filament current is the same so I don't see why they should not work?

I agree, but first do a little troubleshooting. Is the 75TH bias off the Bias adjust rheostat steady, and pure DC? In the schematic the filter caps (C401, C402) are only 4uf + 4uf to make -145v bias to the Rheostat and the PA grid current meter. Increasing the PA grid current will boost the - bias to the modulator somewhat. There is a possibility of some interaction there if C401, C402 on deck D are not filtering, or the bleeder current on the bias supply from R401, R402, R403 (750 500, 1000 ohms respectively) is not about 64ma (145/2250). Making C401, C402 5X stock value might be a good thing.

As to the 75TH's, those metal plates like that are designed to get red hot at normal ratings. Might take 1 plate cap off, and key up (audio gain down). If OK, put the plate cap on, and then remove the other one. If either tube is gassy, there should be some glow within the envelope. This is a way to see if the idle currents are balanced, or if one tube goes into a runaway situation.

BTW, I've run 808's before at 2250V B+ as class B modulators. Takes about -50v of bias. These look similar to the 75TH, but unfortunately have a 7.5v filament voltage.

Could always get a 304TH and take it apart! There are four 75TH's inside.  Tongue

Jim
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M0GHQ
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2020, 03:36:06 AM »

That was the problem, removed anode cap in turn to find the culprit, swapped out the 75TH for my only nos spare and we are back in business, looking for another 75TH to add to the spares box again. Now 250W and stable Mod plate current (now adjusted to 45mA). Smiley I suppose I should investigate the 100TH route as I have about a dozen of them with the BC610E I have. Prefer not to mod this TX unless I really have to, it is such a grand old thing. All the bias caps are new, surprisingly they are still available even have the same cans sold as motor start capacitors from Tedss just drop in replacements. I had to replace every wirewound in the set when I got it as all were o/c so I had pretty much rebuilt the whole rig.
73 and HNY folks,
Max M0GHQ


* IMG_5513.JPG (2191.57 KB, 4141x3119 - viewed 232 times.)

* IMG_5511.JPG (1197.32 KB, 2740x2530 - viewed 278 times.)
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WBear2GCR
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« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2020, 05:03:46 PM »

Well, Holmes! Another case solved and in the books...

                             _-_-bear
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
W2PFY
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« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2020, 10:42:14 PM »

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-LIqdjqHts

My pet approves!
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