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Author Topic: Hallicrafters SX-88 bezel repro  (Read 2537 times)
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w3jn
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« on: November 26, 2017, 06:27:13 PM »

Looks like KC1AEW is making them.  Not cheap, but there's no other alternative.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hallicrafters-SX88-New-Cast-Aluminum-Bezel/152804003094?hash=item2393d40d16:g:72AAAOSwHUhaGz1o
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FCC:  "The record is devoid of a demonstrated nexus between Morse code proficiency and on-the-air conduct."
WBear2GCR
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Brrrr- it's cold in the shack! Fire up the BIG RIG


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« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2017, 05:29:08 PM »

While some work did need to be done to make a fresh model for the mold, the price seems significantly high.
But, otoh, there's a limited market/demand.

Pretty sure one could get a machinist with a CNC mill to wack these out of solid billet for somewhat less money...
and you'd get a better finish too...

Dunno. Shame the old ones sagged like that...

Fwiw, you could if metal was not an absolute requirement, make up a model, then mold/cast it out of an appropriate
resin/epoxy. That would be a DIY project. Something to consider...

                       
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_-_- bear WB2GCR                   http://www.bearlabs.com
W3RSW
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Rick & "Roosevelt"


« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2017, 09:07:14 AM »

If I had a bezel seemingly in as good as shape as his original, sagging long surrounds but with no through-cracks and otherwise torque broken members, I'd try first to repair and realign its frame.  Then sand or burnish, refinish and dark paint as appropriate.

To repair properly you might make up a hardwood or better outer frame surround to hold the bezel securely while reforming from inside out with suitable blocks, pulling the bezel members slowly toward the outer frame with screw type C-clamps.  If the aluminum is still malleable enough, gentle hammering from inside out with the protective blocks might work, but the slow screw method is probably best.

Watch for torque twisting of the bezel by carefully placing the blocks before tightening the clamps, or better yet make the blocks with two-step backs against the inside of the bezel and one step faces where the clamp jaws will pull. 

--clamped top and bottom boards clear across the whole temporary frame (with C clamp clearance cutouts)  will also help prevent the whole bezel from riding up out of plane while the C clamps are being tightened.

Fun project to try before having to buy a repro bezel and doing your own drilling and finishing anyway.
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RICK  *W3RSW*
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« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2017, 11:07:04 AM »

The original bezel was a pot metal alloy suffering from "zinc pest" - way too brittle to stretch/squish back into shape. Mine was typical - it had warped and expanded so far it wouldn't fit into the front panel and part of it had broken like you can see that this one has. I hadn't heard about this problem before and was quite astounded when my SX-88 arrived. I replaced it with one of the CNC machined aluminum replicas that Hank Arney made 15-20 years ago.
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W3RSW
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Rick & "Roosevelt"


« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2017, 11:54:28 AM »

I Didn't realize the originals were that crappy and seemed to be the fate of most.  Sigh, -oh well.  Grin
The aluminum casting mentioned in this thread seems also to be porous looking in detail.
I guess a decent filling base coat, etc. will help.

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RICK  *W3RSW*
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