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Author Topic: DX-100 Band Switch  (Read 6765 times)
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w2rik
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« on: September 15, 2016, 12:08:25 PM »

Good morning all!

My main band switch is cracked and separated from the other half and there is a slight gap in the joint when put together, will JB Weld work?

Also, Pls see the attached pictures of the main band switch, one of the contacts (where the brown wire connects) by the red pointer isn't making contact, is this correct or is it bent off of the point of contact? (The second pic is a close up).

Tnx,

Rik
w2rik


* image.jpeg (391.26 KB, 2049x1536 - viewed 329 times.)

* image.png (2614.16 KB, 2048x1536 - viewed 362 times.)
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K7LYF
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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2016, 12:15:07 PM »

JB Weld has metal in it. Try an epoxy or some thing else.
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2016, 12:41:30 PM »

Is that the exciter or final section bandswitch wafer?
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w2rik
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« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2016, 01:20:13 PM »

Is that the exciter or final section bandswitch wafer?

See attached.


* image.jpeg (2524.98 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 342 times.)

* image.jpeg (1866.28 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 368 times.)
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w2rik
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« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2016, 01:22:46 PM »

JB Weld has metal in it. Try an epoxy or some thing else.

Tnx, I heard that before but have seen JB Weld used. I will take your advice and look into epoxy.
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2016, 01:25:31 PM »

JB Weld has metal in it. Try an epoxy or some thing else.

Tnx, I heard that before but have seen JB Weld used. I will take your advice and look into epoxy.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0411/5921/files/Steel_Reinforced_Epoxy_Twin_Tubes.pdf?785811878289892783
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2016, 01:27:16 PM »

Is that the exciter or final section bandswitch wafer?

See attached.

I have one of those and can send it to you.  PM your information or tell me if your mailing address is on QRZ.

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w2rik
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2016, 02:10:42 PM »

JB Weld has metal in it. Try an epoxy or some thing else.

Tnx, I heard that before but have seen JB Weld used. I will take your advice and look into epoxy.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0411/5921/files/Steel_Reinforced_Epoxy_Twin_Tubes.pdf?785811878289892783
So the bottom line on these switches as opposed to a tube socket is stay away from any bond with metal in it.  Tnx!
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w2rik
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« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2016, 02:11:44 PM »

Is that the exciter or final section bandswitch wafer?

See attached.

I have one of those and can send it to you.  PM your information or tell me if your mailing address is on QRZ.

Jim, I just sent you a PM. Tnx again.  

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wb3eii
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« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2016, 07:48:33 AM »

Hello, there is a really detailed article on rotary band switches that can be found in the December 1986 issue of 73 magazine.
 good luck, Ed AB3HT
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w2rik
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« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2016, 08:40:50 AM »

Hello, there is a really detailed article on rotary band switches that can be found in the December 1986 issue of 73 magazine.
 good luck, Ed AB3HT

Tnx Ed, it's just what I need, so I will check it out.

UPDATE: Here's the link, see pg 26. https://ia802602.us.archive.org/0/items/73-magazine-1986-12/12_December_1986.pdf
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Patrick J. / KD5OEI
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« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2016, 10:22:02 AM »

It would be interesting if someone did a scientific evaluation of it as an insulator including any properties related to RF. Having steel powder in it, what I mean is de-tuning of coils and adding stray capacitance.

JB Weld has steel powder in it but it is considered an insulator. It should be OK for lower voltage non-RF uses. I've used it on circuit boards, switches, and screw-type barrier or terminal strips <1000V, but not anything like an RF band switch. I think the key is to be sparing and not have globs that come right near the conductors in question. After all, glue only glues the two surfaces together, and a sloppy excess glue adds little strength.

http://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube
http://www.jbweld.com/pages/faqs
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kd1nw
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« Reply #12 on: September 18, 2016, 08:40:02 AM »

Hi Rik,

My DX-100 bandswitch was also broken like in your first photo at the 9 o'clock position. The break went all the way to the outside of the switch. I used a small amount of gorilla glue and I think I gently wedged some screw drivers in there to press it together because i didnt have a clamp. It seems to okay, no arcing or breaking. Epoxy should similar but thought I'd let you know in case it helps or your have gorilla glue already.

Thanks 73
Kevin
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #13 on: September 18, 2016, 11:28:02 AM »

Hi Rik,

. Epoxy should similar but thought I'd let you know in case it helps or your have gorilla glue already.



Check any epoxy or gorilla glue for temperature characteristics, many of them don't do well in high heat environments.  I have had switch repairs using epoxy come apart after a short period of time.

For example the long drying JB Weld is good to about 600 degrees whereas the quick drying type is much less.

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