National NC-100A on the way

[N6YW]

Greetings
Yet another buzzard box is on it's way to me, a restoration piece that shows lots of promise.
I won this online for a reasonable price and I feel it is a strong project that will provide a lot
of enjoyment. This will be my first complete strip down restoration that will include removal of
everything for refurbishment. Does anyone have suggestions and ideas on what to do and not
to do?
I am pretty sure the chassis will need paint and the cans will need a generous polishing, the usual
stuff. I am also wondering if there is a source for replacement S-Meter faces. Nick Tusa is doing
a remarkable job on his Central Electronics meter replacements. Perhaps someone is doing them
for National's too.
Billy N6YW

[Ralph W3GL]

While the ID plate says "NC100A" it looks just like the NC100ASD I had in my shack back in the late 40's...

As I recall there is data available on line (eBay item 400695518074) for the ASD and while there is no band-spread on that receiver, it was a great worker back then. It heard the world on 28 MC in the '47/8 season using a folded dipole made from TV twin line, 16' off ground.  It also was a great CW receiver ( as was all National receivers I have used ) on all bands.  

Oh,  perhaps the difference between the A & ASD' might be the 200 to 400 KC band coverage in place of the standard broad cast band ?

Good luck with your restoration.  

I have had a search going for one the past 5 years or so...

[WBear2GCR]

I have one of the NC-100A here.
Mine was owned by my ham mentor, Bob W2UO (sk).
I installed the optional xtal filter.

The front plastic or glass (I don't recall) was replaced by me with some plexiglass.
It's a neat radio, with the sliding IF drawer. I only had to repair or replace the main PS cap. Everything else is stock on mine.

Don't think it is really up to something like an R-388 or 51J series or an R-390, but it is a fun radio.

Ralph, I think ur on the right track, they made a series of these, including one with an extended back I think for VLF work, Navy perhaps?

Mine has some stuff in the hole plugs on the front panel.

Oh, the audio out goes to an outboard Single-Ended output transformer. It can be pretty small, as the output is only a few watts... it's NOT "8 ohms"!

                     _-_-

[N6YW]

I have gone off the deep end with the National receivers. Along with the NC-100A, I am now the happy owner of a pristine HRO 60 complete with all of the standard coil packs plus with some additional goodies.
And, the HRO 5TA-1 will arrive tomorrow along with the 100. I have my plate full, but the important thing is to enjoy rejuvenating an old buzzard radio that has lineage, class and a great history.
I understand that the 100 is not the ultimate but it has that certain "it" factor when it comes to restoration and getting back into service.
Stay tuned!
Billy N6YW

[N6YW]

BTW
A question for the serious restorers...
Rivets. Blind rivets specifically, or at least that's what I call them.
If you look on the front of the NC-100, you see the nice rounded top of the rivets holding the control plates in place onto the face panel, two plates on either side. My receiver has specks of silk screening paint (black) that has gone away. Call it "pocking" or otherwise. While I am considering drilling out the rivets to remove them for proper refinishing, is there anyone who can advise me on a better approach? Otherwise, I would have to refinish them in place which will be a major pain in the rear. The rivets will have to be sourced if I drill them out, so that's another conundrum to deal with too.
Where would I find these rivets and the tool to install new ones? McMaster Carr or Grainger?
Thanks in advance,
Billy N6YW

[stevef]

The rivets on my NC-101X appear to be 1/16" or 3/32" semi-tubular type.  I would think your local machine shop could pop them back in for you in a few minutes work.  You might compare that to the cost of the installation tool(s).

Steve KK7UV

[N6YW]

Thanks Steve, I will check into that.
The receiver was delivered today and it's missing the bottom cover but that's not really an issue, I can make one. It's a candidate for the car wash blast! Good news though, the grey chassis paint is in surprisingly good condition. All of the dirt and grime in Texas kept it from becoming wasted. No corrosion of any sort. The power supply seems to work, pilot lamps anyway. No tubes yet so I will find out soon
enough. All of the components are original, so I am content knowing it hasn't been wrecked by modifications or worse. The dial pointer string needs to be redone and I expected that. Otherwise, it's all there and all that's needed is time and lot's of it. I am very confident it's going to turn out really nice.
Stay tuned.
Billy N6YW

[WBear2GCR]

The paint on the rivets, or the paint on the panel (wrinkle black, iirc)?
For the rivets, I'd go for a paint pen or fine brush and some black lacquer...
...I have had success with "masking" the unwanted area with things like grease or vaseline, which is then removed after the painted area has dried. I've also done this trick for painting right up to a nameplate or badge that is installed on a transformer or panel.

FYI, and fwiw.

                   _-_-