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Author Topic: Need suggestion about placing electrolytic caps  (Read 2841 times)
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w1vtp
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« on: February 23, 2014, 03:17:41 PM »

Got my Viking 1 on the bench, upside down & cover off.  The electrolytic that were replaced are horrible.  The guy did a real hammybone job.  I do recall someone posting some pictures that showed a nice job.  I thought I had saved the pics but cannot find them.

Suggestions and pics really appreciated.  The electrolytic cap off the 807 screens is not stock but I understand it's an improvement over the original design.  The transmitter does put out 100 watts just fine.

Thanks in advance for any help, Al


* BOTTOM REVEALED (TEXT & COMP).jpg (1211.88 KB, 4928x3264 - viewed 454 times.)
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N2DTS
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« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2014, 04:06:45 PM »

The screen cap looks old and due to be replaced, and the new one will likely be smaller and might fit better.

To my eye, the caps look ok, the only better setup would be a multi section can mounted on the chassis and wires running to where they need to go.
Most would not want the extra hole...
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w1vtp
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« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2014, 05:59:42 PM »

Brett

Yes.  The plan is to replace it and the other caps with the smaller form factor caps.  Someone else has posted a bottom reveal pic that showed how they did it but I lost the download, but your point is taken

Al
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N2DTS
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2014, 08:25:33 PM »

It looks quite clean and simple under there.
I do not know how the stock radio was, never had one.
At least they used wire ties to support the caps.
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WQ9E
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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2014, 09:11:13 PM »

Al,

I can't read values from your photo but are those replacements much larger in value than the original?  They look awfully large.  The LV input and output caps were 15uf@450 and the bias were the same value but at 150V.  Those values provide plenty of filtering and modern caps of that value are going to be very small and easy to mount.  I don't have any photos handy but I used some light gauge aluminum tubing and stuffed it with modern replacement caps and mounted these two dual caps like they were originally. 

Your Viking 1 looks neat compared to what the one I went through looked like, the caps were stuck in with double sided tape and not neatly.

Be sure and check/clean the 5R4 sockets and tube bases while you are in there, all it takes is a little dust to start a carbon track with these.
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Rodger WQ9E
W6TOM
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« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2014, 10:45:53 PM »

   This was my first restoration job, the “victim” was a Viking II. One thing I found out was that today’s capacitors are a lot smaller for the same capacitance, that presented problems in that leads had to be lengthened. I decided that functionality and ease of repair was more important than “pretty”. Here are a Before and After picture of what I did. I used the radio for quite a few years, it was my first AM Boat Anchor, I have since sold it.

Knowing what I do know I think I would have given reforming the capacitors a try rather than just change them out.


* InsideBefore.jpg (472.12 KB, 2285x1175 - viewed 348 times.)

* InsideAfter.JPG (422.84 KB, 1965x1355 - viewed 351 times.)
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2014, 10:04:27 AM »


"....presented problems in that leads had to be lengthened."


FWIW, there is always 'stuffing' the old caps with the new.


klc
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