Meter Hole

[Carl WA1KPD]

Can I use this to cut a meter hole in a an aluminum front rack panel? 
The panel is maybe 1/8-3/16. I have a good strong and variable speed drill press, so dropping the RPM will not be a problem
Thanks
Carl
/KPD

[KA0HCP]

Use what?   Where you intending to attach a photo or file to your post?

[KA2DZT]

Let us know what cutting tool you're planning to use in the drill press.

I just cut 4 meter holes in a 1/8" panel.

Fred

[Carl WA1KPD]

Sorry about that
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100659792&R=100659792



73

Carl
/KPD

[KA8WTK]

I have used one of those. Clamp the work piece down REALLY well and take it slow, you don't want the cutter to "catch".

Bill

[WQ9E]

Carl,

The set screws tend to loosen in those cutters unless they are really tight so double check them. 

Cut a test hole in a scrap piece to check sizing, any runout in your drill press or the cutter will increase the cutout size beyond what you measure when you set up your cutter.

Put a good sacrificial backer board behind the panel so it cannot deflect at all because this will cause the cutter to catch.

[Pete, WA2CWA]

I've used that type of circle cutter since the late 60's. Slow speed works the best; good clamp down of material and, as indicated in other post, a wood board behind the panel.

[k4kyv]

And use a drill press.  Trying to use one with a hand drill is certain disaster.

[K5WLF]

I used to build instrument panels for ultralight aircraft and have drilled literally hundreds of holes in 1/8" Al with a fly cutter. Like the guys said, use a drill press, clamp the hell out of it, keep the speed down and don't be afraid to put some oil or WD-40 on it. I used WD-40. Also keep the cutting bit sharp. You'll do fine. Just take your time.

ldb

[WBear2GCR]

Do test pieces first.

The thing will hog and try to stop the drill press. Guaranteed.

Test the hole size on scrap, it can be thinner scrap. You can't measure it before cutting, it comes out different.

Sometimes the holes are not dead square, so the top and bottom are not the same diameter.
The back side usually has a burr, not always.
Use a backer plate, wood is ok.
IF the table and work are not pretty darn flat and parallel to the axis of the cutter, you don't get a very
nice cut sometimes, and you may not cut through all around the circle at the same time...

take ur time - use lube - wear hearing protection (it can squeal very loudly sometimes).

Sharp cutter bit can be a plus.

I use these all the time, but would opt for an exact size hole saw if I had the choice.

Oh, you can NOT make the chuck TOO TIGHT!! Wail on it.





                      _-_-bear

[WQ9E]

By the way, the most common setup mistake for a drill press is setting the tension of the drive belt(s) too tight.  They need to be tight enough not to slip under normal load but excessive tightness greatly increases the wear of the belt, the spindle bearings, and motor bearings and transfers excessive motor vibration to the spindle.

[W3GMS]

I remember when I was a 14 year old kid trying to use one of those in my Dad's electric hand drill!  We did not have a drill press.  Quite an experience to say the least.  Later I used one in a drill press and had no problem as long as the things were done that have been suggested earlier in this thread.  It goes without saying, use safety glasses. 
Joe, W3GMS 

[Carl WA1KPD]

Thanks to all the help and even offers of lending me tools!

The final path was a friend who had access to a machine shop. They enlarged the existing hole and cut a new one gratis.
73
Carl
/KPD