I need advice and tips: cleaning soot

[KX5JT]

Monday the 23rd, when I arrived home from work and opened my front door I was greeted with the stench of smoke and soot.  My furnace/indoor A/C portion of the HVAC system had actually CAUGHT FIRE.  Apparently this happened when I kicked on the heater (after a couple of months of non-use) to get the chill out of the air for my shower.  It was only on for 20 minutes and I turned it all off before heading to work.

Long story short, apparently the filter caught on fire and literally burned up the inside of the unit until the freon (or whatever they use now) line broke and put the fire out... but it smoldered.  This probably saved my home but now there is a fine dusting of soot covering everything including my Viking II which had the cover off. 

My insurance does not cover possessions, only the structure, lesson learned.  So now it's up to me to clean up the items I want to keep which of course includes all my radios and parts.  The ServiceMaster guy offered to leave me some solution for free to help with this but I'm not sure what it is made of or if it will be safe on electronics.

I'll be off the air for a while and living with my parents for a couple months at least but in the meantime, I want to clean my gear up properly.

Just looking for some guidance from others that might have experience with this.

Thanks in advance,

John KX5JT

[W7TFO]

What I've always done for really smoky or dirty gear was to get it outside, give a good spraying with a mild cleaner like simple green, and let it soak a bit. 

Maybe agitate areas of bad concentrations with a soft paintbrush to loosen things up a bit.

Then rinse it out with a hose, sun dry a bit, and into the oven @ 150-160 degrees for at least a couple hours.

We did this at a TV station I worked at, felt strange doing it to a megabuck video camera, but always worked.

73DG

[KA0HCP]

My standard cleaning solution is Krud Kutter, diluted, with copious flushing of water.

[Ed/KB1HYS]

HoKay, well, There are two types of sooty deposits from a fire, One is more like a chemical that condenses onto something, that requires physical rubbing and a cleaner to get off.  Usually simple soap and water (Dawn Detergent here) and a dish cloth works FB.  The other is just the black carbon dust that can simply be wiped or vacuumed away.  It is usually worth it to vacuum as much up first anyway, then clean the remainder with detergent afterwards.

Good Luck.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

Had a similar issue some years back John, in my case the oil burner tech had set the mixture incorrectly which caused it to plug up and soot things up pretty well. Fortunately for me it happened in the morning before I had left for work (nothing quite like waking up to a chorus of smoke alarms going off). I was able to shut the burner down before it got any worse.

Before attempting any of the cleaning suggestions here, I would first take the rig outdoors and blow it out with a compressor or a can of compressed air. As Ed said, a lot of the soot is light and fluffy so to speak, which is what allows it to be airborne. If you try cleaning it before this, you will dissolve the little clumps and just make that much more crap to clean. You might be surprised to see a clean rig once you blow it out, especially if there was already dust inside.

Only after doing that would I introduce any liquid into the mix. You may have no choice in the matter, but it's worth a try.

[w1vtp]

I recently visited a web site of a guy who did some really great restorations including cleaning equipment and he recommends this product

http://www.gojo.com/united-states/market/automotive/products/selfdispense/814506.aspx

I found the web site.  He makes really interesting reading. Be sure to check everything out.  His comment was made on this page

http://www.km5tz.com/75A2.htm

Just be sure you do not get the kind that has pumace in it - that will scratch the surface.  They also have disposable pads if you want to try that route.  In any case, be careful about using water based products that might promote rust or corrosion

GL  Al

[KZ5A]

I agree with the compressed air and then dawn, water, and gentle brushing approach.   

Armor-all is pretty safe and paint always looks newer afterward. 

In a lot of cases I use isopropyl alcohol however it melts the paint on Johnsons (speaking from experience).

I'm currently using "grill and BBQ cleaner" on my RCA BTA 1R1 to get the tobacco residue off of the painted surfaces, however it would probably take the paint right off of a Viking.

73 Jack KZ5A

 

[KX5JT]

Okay great advice thanks everyone... This is mostly a sticky light film.  It doesn't blow away easily with the can air.  It kinda makes a "mud" when wiped with a damp towel.  I think I'll blow with air as much as possible then use a mild detergent on paper towel and q-tips, so far that seems to be working on the few pieces I did.  AH just so tedious! 

Well, *sigh* it'll be a while before I can do much on the air with AM but I may be able to stick a long wire out the window here at my folks guest room where I may be for a couple months and run my ricebox in digital modes just to keep my logbook filling up a bit.

On the bright side, this whole ordeal will force me to rearrange and rethink my shack since it will all be dismantled and the gear cleaned up.  I'm hoping to get back to some boat anchor AM by the end of the summer and get my 80 meter and MAYBE a 160 meter antenna solution for next autumn/winter lowband season.

[WQ9E]

As you clean, keep in mind that soot you are seeing is largely carbon which is conductive so as soon as possible blow off the accumulation from inside your equipment.  Be very careful what cleaner you use inside since you want to completely remove the soot from insulating parts instead of a liquid cleaner which may deposit it inside somewhat porous materials (bakelite, unglazed ceramics, etc.).  The good news is since it propagated through the air to get to your gear much of it will blow off as suggested by previous posters.

It is a mess but be glad it wasn't worse.  Hope you get things  back to normal soon.

[ke7trp]

I have hosed them down with the garden hose before many times.  As TFO said, some simple green is fine.  some various cheap paint brushes.  The important step that should not be overlooked is to rinse with distilled water.

Go get a couple gallons of distilled water at the grocery store.  A final wrinse with this will make sure no corosion will not take place.  There is alot of crap in your home water suppy and depending on where you live, You might come out to find your gear covered in a white film with some rust from minerals what such.

C

[KX5JT]

I tell you I've heard of people hosing down their gear.... even seen pics of a BC transmitter being hosed down.... but I cringe at the very thought!!!  

Here is a pic of the coffee table two rooms away from the actual fire... the radio room is actually closer....

The lighter part is where there was a book sitting that I moved... so you can see what I'm dealing with.

[ke7trp]

You need tack cloths sold at auto body repair shops john.

[KX5JT]

You need tack cloths sold at auto body repair shops john.

Tack cloths.. hmm.. okay... would auto part stores have it?

[WQ9E]

Careful, the auto finishing tack cloths must be different from those we woodworkers use. 

The woodworking tack cloths assume you are about to apply some other finish (stain, finish, etc.) and they are impregnated with mineral spirits, lacquer, or some similar substance.  They do an excellent job of removing existing dust and debris but will also leave traces of whatever they are impregnated with on the surface you are cleaning.  This isn't a problem when you are putting a finish on but that isn't your situation so make sure you don't get those meant for woodworkers.

[ke7trp]

I have never seen any tack clothes with any kind of hydrocarbon/solvent on them.  They might exist though!   

The type I am talking about are simply towels that are of a textile that really picks up lint, Dirt, and dust so you have a spotless surface before paint.  You use a solvent and a cloth to clean grease and finger prints, Then after that drys you use a tach cloth. 

We have a local auto body shop supply place in town. They have this kind of thing cheap and on the shelves.

C

[KB2WIG]

J,
Crappy thing to happen. ....  But yer still above ground.

Any firemen around to ask?.....  I'd guess they could help, being in the fire bizz.


klc

[W1RKW]

If you hose anything with water, remove iron transformers, and clean them separately.  I've deep immersed solid state PC boards in water then immersed in 100% isopropyl alcohol to absorb water then let sun dry for a day or 2.  Distilled water is a good idea.

[WQ9E]

I have never seen any tack clothes with any kind of hydrocarbon/solvent on them.  They might exist though!   

Clark,

Here is an example of what is typically sold for woodworking use:  http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/tackclothpackof5.aspx  

Note that it states not for use with water based finishes indicating that there is going to be some residue left behind although it doesn't specify what is used to provide the tackiness.  Whatever it is triggers the California Prop. 65 warning which doesn't mean much since pretty much everything causes cancer once you cross the CA state line.  

Many woodworkers make their own tack cloths using cheesecloth and mineral spirits or highly thinned lacquer.

It sounds like the auto body version is an unimpregnated micro-fiber cloth.

[W7TFO]

John doesn't need to clean the house, others will apparently be doing that.

He needed help on ditry-fied gear they won't cover under his insurance. 

Those sponges may do fine on the cabinets of things, but are of not much use on the guts of a transmitter.

73DG

[KX5JT]

Carpets are beyond cleaning (according to the pro) so will be changed.. He will be cleaning the walls, ceilings and linoleum, cabinets, mirrors, tubs, stove, fridge, etc.

Dennis is correct, my STUFF that's not attached to the structure is up to me to clean or discard. Furniture, electronics, radio gear, etc. etc. is on me.

[The Slab Bacon]

"The proper application of fire to ass" and some idle threats of death and dismemberment to your insurance adjuster may gain you some more resources
(reimbursement) to get it done. It helped me after the snow / blizzard damage 2 years ago and is always worth a try. they even paid for the replacement of my baby Weber grill that got smashed when the porch roof colapsed. They felt that it was going to be cheaper to give me what I want than deal with my lawyer. When it was all over, the adjuster was pulling for me, go figger........

"Back in the day" tack cloth was cheese cloth with some kind of gummy substance imbedded in it. Nowadays, they may have some kind of non-sticky resin impregnated into it. Like those new dust picker-uppers they advertise on the TV infomercials. The best place to check would be an auto body supply shop or an auto parts store that caters to professionals. (Not one of the chains of "fast food" auto parts vendors.

Good luck, John, I hope it all turns out well.

[K7EDL]

AC systems us mineral oil as the lubricant when your line blew it likely filled the air with soot and a fine spray of oil, the other chemicals probably disapated in the air living the soot and mineral oil. I would think that dish detergent and water or any other kitchen cleaner would clean it.  then follow up with alcohol or baking it in the oven at 225 or so would get rid of the water. but then again I havent done this with a radio would the 225 degree oven ruin any thing like the paint?

Eric
BTW take a couple of lemmons and put themcut up  in a sauce pan with water and boil them it will get rid of a lot of the smell

[KX5JT]

Thanks guys for all the tips!  My major cleanup on the stuff has not really started, will do so this weekend as the Service Master pros will be here Thursday.  I'm off the weekend and Tues so hoping I can tackle everything... moving all my salvagables out to be cleaned and stored including a room full of parts and some items waiting to be restored.

[WBear2GCR]

my 2 cents worth:

DON'T BLOW AIR AT IT - unless you wear a genuine respirator.

That stuff is bad in the lungs, and small particles.

I had worse about 15 years ago. One of those cheezy chinese PLASTIC pedestal fans siezed (bronze bearings
not ball) MELTED it's way out of the plastic housing - look ma no thermal protection! - and fell, hot as a pistol onto the carpet where it proceeded to turn the (thankfully fire treated commercial carpet) into THICK BLACK SOOT.

Made it so dark inside that in bright summer sun, it looks like nightime inside. Coated EVERYTHING.

Killed almost ALL of the stuff that had a microprocessor control in it. Cassette decks (back then) and TVs, etc. CD player, nice Mitsubishi FM tuner. Dead.

The stuff is electrostatic, it clings to EVERYTHING.

You will need to wash everything with a HOSE to get it off. And use a brush, etc.

I used Fantastik spray cleaner and my go-to stuff, Mean Green. Water and soap had no effect in most cases.
I tried to start with just detergent, it failed to get the stuff off.

Act quickly. It will corrode itself in to aluminum and similar surfaces. Eats metals for lunch.

I was able to save about 50% of everything.

Maybe ur soot is just dusty, mine clung to everything. Shoulda patented that stuff.

I will NEVER use a plastic cased pedestal fan again. And if it is plastic, only those open frame shaded pole motors.
At least they won't build a ton of heat if stalled.

"...I feel your pain..."

                             _-_-bear