Johnson Viking2

[WQ9E]

Check C45 and C28 also to make sure neither is shorted since that would cause the replacement resistor to burn out.  I would be suspicious that one of these may have shorted taking out your first fuse and damaging R28.

[KE7KPB]

Revise, r28 open and I rechecked r13, this time I removed all wiring and it is also open.
Where can I get a new one?
This thing is like chasing a rabbit around a hole.
I checked the resistor with a magnifying glass and yep broken wire.

[WQ9E]

Unless you are lucky enough to have a big parts store in the area you won't be able to find the resistor locally.  For the 20 K fixed resistor Mouser does have them and they aren't expensive at $2.29:  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/HL02506Z20K00JJ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidMSY%252b1GTbUwvMoAjHCWlPas%3d

You can also get the 20K adjustable from them and this needs to be a 50 watt unit, adjustable WW units are a bit more expensive:  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/D50K20KE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidB8tHLcYn%252bvCO0C403mjYL4%3d

Mouser has no minimum order but if your order is only for a couple of resistors then choose USPS instead of default UPS shipping.  Of course now would be a good time to stock up on other standard passive components you need and if so consider ordering sufficient stock of common items for future repairs since there is generally a significant quantity discount.


But with both of these resistors failed, definitely check the screen bypass caps.  R13 is a pretty common failure item due to wear/fragile nature.  With the final not drawing a lot of current and the bleeder (R13) open, HV would soar since without critical load the power supply filter would operate as a capacitor input filter instead of choke input  and that might have taken out a screen bypass cap in the process.

[KE7KPB]

Thanks for so much info and the tremendous amount of help. Time to go shopping, and I just got a shipment of parts in.
Oh well. I also decided to go through the Johnson T/R switch and replaced the electrolytic cap and low and behold a .005 cap flashed to the case at one point. This cap is common to both transmit and receive.
That was all I need is to have this do something else to the transmitter.
Stay tuned for more after I get the parts installed. I just hope everything goes well. At least is talking now to get it yelling.

[KE7KPB]

Rodger, I received the new resistors from Mouser, Installed them, found a couple of other problems and this dog hunts.
115watts out in ruff tuning. Now off to button up the bottom and start adjustment of the clamper circuit and put it out on the air. Rebuilt the T/R switch and when I plug it in for the receiver I do get a substantial bump in receive signal. Well maybe not to much but the little needle did wiggle a little more.  The 122 vfo is working correctly and zero beat into the HRO501T.
Checked alignment on the receiver and all is good.
I want to thank you for all of the help and others who contributed to the current thread. I may have other questions but for now it is time to kick this pig and make it squeal.   

[WQ9E]

Always good to have a happy ending 

Congratulations on getting it running again!