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Author Topic: ART-13 opinions?  (Read 8268 times)
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KC2TAU
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« on: November 17, 2011, 11:38:38 PM »


I've been pondering over whether to get an ART-13 for a while and I'd just like to hear all of your opinions on it. I like it because it's a good medium power transmitter (and more than enough power for me), it's sturdy, has plenty of documentation and it looks very handsome. Besides general opinions I'd also like to know:

1) Would it play well on a 115VAC 15A house circuit?
2) Can it be made to sound nice on AM? Does it play well with an external mixer and dynamic studio microphone?
3) Roughly how heavy is it?
4) Are there really only four capacitors that need replacing? I read this somewhere and it sounded peculiar to me.
5) Any trouble areas that I need to look out for?

I just want to arm myself with as much information as possible before committing.
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KA2DZT
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« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2011, 11:57:38 PM »

An ART-13 will work as built if you have a WWII aircraft they were used in. Grin

Otherwise, you'll need to build a plate power supply, low voltage supply and a way to power the filaments.
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KC2TAU
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« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2011, 12:40:37 AM »


Right, I should have stated that I would construct a power supply for it.
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WA4JK
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« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2011, 09:15:06 AM »

They require a few audio mods to bring the audio out of high tone relief, but once the few mods are done they are rock solid and a work horse.
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KE6DF
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WWW
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2011, 09:46:52 AM »

The one I had 45 years ago when I was on  high school was rock sold stable.

I could zero-beat it with WWV, go away for an hour, and it wouldn't have budged.

The VFO was similar to tuning a WWII frequency meter like a LM and the ART-13 has it's own calibration crystal.

The autotune is great. It seems almost impossible that something like that could be made to work.
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KL7OF
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« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2011, 10:29:16 AM »

I've never seen a live working autotune in action......An electro mechanical device that had real engineering...
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w1vtp
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« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2011, 11:53:19 AM »

Can an ART13 sound good?  Listen to Bill, K1BF and Mike WU2D for proof that it can.  They can be made to sound GREAT.  However, you will need to invest a fair amount of effort to get it powered up In you AC powered station and have it sound good

Rather, I'd vote for either a EJF Viking 1 or 2 or a Collins 32V# for an easier installation of a 100  watt class transmitter. This compares favorably with the ART13's 150 watt output.  Couple a Collins or EFJ with an excellent antenna installation will result in an excellent signal.  Operating an ART13 can be a blast but you will need to invest a lot of effort to get there.

Power supply?  That's already been addressed but again, some investment in time, money and designi will be necessary

73 es GL de Al, W1VTP
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w1vtp
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« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2011, 12:01:17 PM »

I've never seen a live working autotune in action......An electro mechanical device that had real engineering...

Here 'Ya go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1S6-FDRmlA

This one shows the whole setup including dynamoter along with command sets.  I like this one a lot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdKA7q9Pd2g&feature=related

Al
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KL7OF
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« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2011, 12:15:13 PM »

I like the great sound that it makes when tuning...Thanks for the u tube
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KC2TAU
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« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2011, 12:16:53 PM »

I've seen a few schematics for a power supply and I'm thinking about using the one depicted in this PDF on page 14.

http://www.qsl.net/i0jx/ART-13_BC-348.pdf

 This is mainly down to not needing to find a transformer with an exceedingly high voltage secondary. I know back issues of ER most likely have articles on audio modifications for the ART-13 but does any such information exist online?
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KB2WIG
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« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2011, 12:41:30 PM »

1) Would it play well on a 115VAC 15A house circuit?

Yep

2) Can it be made to sound nice on AM? Does it play well with an external mixer and dynamic studio microphone?  yep, ya can make it sing nice.

3) Roughly how heavy is it?
52 ish

4) Are there really only four capacitors that need replacing? I read this somewhere and it sounded peculiar to me.
I didn't replace any when I had it working.

5) Any trouble areas that I need to look out for?
Get the ER  pieces from around 3 years ago.... make sure the  AND Don't do the bone head
"wire the B+ to the 'Low' voltage pin".

Check this out,

http://www.radioblvd.com/art13.htm


klc
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KC9LKE
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« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2011, 01:40:27 PM »


Try this for more info

http://amfone.net/Amforum/index.php?topic=27969.msg213995#msg213995

Caps?
I have had several of the molded caps go out. Some in the speech amp and an RF bypass in the multiplier. The later caused a lot of headache.  I would like to come up with a way to replace them, mechanically and aesthetically as I would like to restore the two that I have cleanly.
 
Also a molded resistor in the speech amp that was a bear to find. It was intermittent and generated a lot of noise.

Power supply: I used Mikes, WU2D’s, power supply print. I ordered the power transformers 400v & 1250v from AnTek and rewound the 28v xformer secondary from a 300W EI donor by hand. The supply shouldn’t break the bank and it’s rewarding to design build, and I like to build anyway.

I agree with others, the speech amp needs only a little work to help with the lows, and with the tube line up you can easily modulate the carrier with a 0dbm input signal. The ART-13 doesn’t have a clipper so you will need to add one, active limiter, to your audio chain.


KB2WIG nice article!

Best regards

Ted / KC9LKE
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KC2TAU
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« Reply #12 on: November 18, 2011, 06:49:43 PM »

Hello Ted,


Would you happen to have a link to the schematic for WU2D's schematic? I'm having trouble finding it.


Also, what's the going rate for ART-13's these days? Does having it come with a homebrew supply add significant value to it?
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WU2D
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CW is just a narrower version of AM


« Reply #13 on: November 18, 2011, 08:11:37 PM »

This was a crazy rework of the whole circuit that involved basically stripping a module and starting with just the sockets and the driver transformer and connector and building it up. Get a spare beater module to modify. Don't wreck a perfectly good one! I keep a stock audio module in the closet.

Mike WU2D


* ART13AudioWU2D.jpg (317.17 KB, 3000x2250 - viewed 435 times.)

* ART13Audio_New_WU2D.jpg (390.5 KB, 2274x1706 - viewed 444 times.)

* ART13AudioModule_WU2D.jpg (193.53 KB, 1500x1125 - viewed 428 times.)
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WU2D
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CW is just a narrower version of AM


« Reply #14 on: November 18, 2011, 08:16:20 PM »

Woops forgot to send the stock audio module schematic. Here it is.


* ART13Stock.jpg (469.43 KB, 1696x2332 - viewed 440 times.)
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KC9LKE
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« Reply #15 on: November 19, 2011, 09:55:27 AM »

Hello Ted,


Would you happen to have a link to the schematic for WU2D's schematic? I'm having trouble finding it.

If you search the board it should be there. I only have the paper copy. I believe Mike has posted the power supply schematic several times.

Also, what's the going rate for ART-13's these days? Does having it come with a homebrew supply add significant value to it?

$100 to $350.

Depends on the supply I think I spent $125 on mine but its your time effort and money your call. If I had to do it agian I would go a little higher with the HV


Yeah like Mike said get a spare audio module!

That jumper Mike has pictured is indispensible, I’ve yet to make one. Fair had the plugs last I asked.

Mike thanks for posting your audio section I’ll have to give it a try. Its nice to have a record of how others have done it on the board.

My mods were a try it and see and I think I got pretty close to my target but I would like to go through it again before posting it because it believe I can make it better.

Best regards

Ted / KC9LKE
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KM1H
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« Reply #16 on: November 20, 2011, 10:06:04 AM »

Ive been using the Navy version ATC for about 4 years mostly on 20 and 17M and did just the basic audio mods from the late 40's with a little more attention to boosting the lows for when using a dynamic/xtal mike. The stock mod iron isnt built for hi-fi but its quite good sounding and rugged; trying to really push lows thru it is asking for saturation and heat when going much beyond 1100-1200V. I wouldnt bother messing around with extensive mods, clippers, etc. Save all that for an outboard modulator if you really think its needed.....I didnt since it looks good on instruments and reports are complimentary.

The very first thing to do is overhaul the autotune as it will be full of dried up grease. Trying to power it up first will likely destroy it and a rebuild is not for the simple minded....I wouldnt even attempt it Roll Eyes

I did the basic back yard mechanic cleaning job with lots of solvent followed by a thorough hot soap and water wash and then the garden hose. Do it so the crud flows out and not into the rest of the circuitry. Let it completely dry....compressed air helps.
Follow up with a good oiling and then lightly try to manually tune. Stop if there is any binding and fix why. Once it feels smooth and free you can apply a very stiff 24-28V DC supply and exercise to fully distribute the lube job.

Then you can tackle the electronic stuff.

Carl
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