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Author Topic: D650 Soldering Gun - Where does one find replacement parts???  (Read 6467 times)
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steve_qix
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« on: March 28, 2011, 05:15:14 PM »

Hi !

I have two D650 300 watt industrial soldering guns, and on one of them, the hex head screws which are tightened into the tip (and have to be very tight in order to ensure a good connection) are stripped (the hex key slips inside the screw).

I have been unable to find ANY listings for new screws and/or collars for this otherwise perfect soldering gun.

Any ideas?  I can't even find a listing for the Weller company itself.

Thanks !

Regards,

Steve
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Jim, W5JO
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« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2011, 05:25:00 PM »

Steve, I am not sure that D650 number is a Weller gun?Huh  If so do a search for Cooper Tools.

For example:    http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/index.cfm

Jim
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Pete, WA2CWA
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« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2011, 05:56:25 PM »

Parts List for the Weller D650 Soldering Gun: http://www.cooperhandtools.com/onlinecatalog/Parts_Lists/D650_OI_PL.pdf
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2011, 09:34:53 PM »

Thanks for the links.
I'll have spares. Really nice powerful gun for quick soldering of PL259's.
You feel a real hum in your hands on full power!!!!
Fred
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Fred KC4MOP
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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2011, 11:01:49 PM »


Bah - I use a gen-you-wine old school 100watt plus slobbering iron with a copper tip 3/8" wide. That's my small one for those PL-259s... the bigger one is ~200watts and sports a 0.750" wide pyramid tip... that solder gun stuff is for punks!   Grin

                        _-_-bear
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2011, 06:40:55 AM »


Bah - I use a gen-you-wine old school 100watt plus slobbering iron with a copper tip 3/8" wide. That's my small one for those PL-259s... the bigger one is ~200watts and sports a 0.750" wide pyramid tip... that solder gun stuff is for punks!   Grin

                        _-_-bear
A 100 watt soldering gun for PL259's? By the time it heats all that metal up to flow the solder, the coax cable would start melting inside............I don't know how many shorted PL259's I had made, until I switched to the 300 watt gun.
The 100 watter is good for point to point soldering in tube equipment.
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Fred KC4MOP
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2011, 10:43:48 AM »

Real men solder with butane torches Smiley

--Shane
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steve_qix
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« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2011, 01:53:45 PM »

I appreciate the informational responses  Cool  When I solder the drain and source bus bars when building a class e rig, I need a very heavy soldering gun to solder the drains or sources to the 1/2 or 3/4 inch wide material.
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« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2011, 02:43:22 PM »

Big difference between a soldering gun and an iron.  A 100W iron is a big heater, will easily do 3/8" copper bar.

I have a 500W iron for really tough jobs, will do gas tanks, radiators, and copper busbar.

73DG
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w1vtp
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« Reply #9 on: March 29, 2011, 05:09:38 PM »

Maybe I'm missing something here but isn't this a job for "easyout?"

http://www.ehow.com/how_2093489_remove-screw-no-head.html

Again, maybe I missed something. You just drill out the rounded out hex hole and extract the screw with the appropiate easyout.  If worse comes to worse, just drill out the screw until just the threads are left and dig out the excess metal as per this how-to.

Al
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« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2011, 10:43:22 PM »


Bah - I use a gen-you-wine old school 100watt plus slobbering iron with a copper tip 3/8" wide. That's my small one for those PL-259s... the bigger one is ~200watts and sports a 0.750" wide pyramid tip... that solder gun stuff is for punks!   Grin

                        _-_-bear
A 100 watt soldering gun for PL259's? By the time it heats all that metal up to flow the solder, the coax cable would start melting inside............I don't know how many shorted PL259's I had made, until I switched to the 300 watt gun.
The 100 watter is good for point to point soldering in tube equipment.

Fred, to the contrary!

The lower wattage irons/guns overheat the coax!
Not enough heat and you slowly heat the shell and braid, causing the plastic to melt before the slobber flows...

It's an iron, not a gun, but I think you just mistyped that...

One merely touches the tip of the iron to the body and the hole, apply slobber, and it flows, quickly remove the heat - voila! Perfecto!

                  _-_-bear

PS. I have some 1" wide x 0.250 thick copper buss bar. I found it to be virtually unsolderable. Sucks up the heat too fast. Even a propane torch was unable to sufficiently heat it.

                             
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flintstone mop
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« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2011, 11:08:25 AM »


Bah - I use a gen-you-wine old school 100watt plus slobbering iron with a copper tip 3/8" wide. That's my small one for those PL-259s... the bigger one is ~200watts and sports a 0.750" wide pyramid tip... that solder gun stuff is for punks!   Grin

                        _-_-bear
A 100 watt soldering gun for PL259's? By the time it heats all that metal up to flow the solder, the coax cable would start melting inside............I don't know how many shorted PL259's I had made, until I switched to the 300 watt gun.
The 100 watter is good for point to point soldering in tube equipment.

Fred, to the contrary!

The lower wattage irons/guns overheat the coax!
Not enough heat and you slowly heat the shell and braid, causing the plastic to melt before the slobber flows...

It's an iron, not a gun, but I think you just mistyped that...

One merely touches the tip of the iron to the body and the hole, apply slobber, and it flows, quickly remove the heat - voila! Perfecto!

                  _-_-bear

PS. I have some 1" wide x 0.250 thick copper buss bar. I found it to be virtually unsolderable. Sucks up the heat too fast. Even a propane torch was unable to sufficiently heat it.

                             

By GOLLY Bear.....you are correct!!!! Iron vs GUN
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Fred KC4MOP
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« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2011, 12:05:49 PM »

Geezzzzeeeee..................... It's all about technique, technique, technique! ! ! ! !
It is amazing how many hams dont have a clue how to slobber properly! ! !  Shocked  Roll Eyes

It doesn't matter what kind of tools you have if you dont know the proper way to use it!! I have the good old Weller 100/140w gun that I use for just about all point to point wiring, prolly had it for somewhere around 40+ yearz.

Also got the big mutha Weller 240/325w gun for PL-259 shields and other mega slobbering jobs like slobbering coass braids to chassises.

One big No-No most people do is to apply the gun tip to the work while it is cold, pull the trigger, and wait for it to heat up. That is how you overheat and cook stuff! ! ! !

If what you are slobbering is temperature sensitive, you should pull the trigger first and allow the tip to heat up BEFORE touching it to the work. This way you can hit and go before you cook something to death. I've been doing it that way for beaucoup yearz without any problemz! ! ! ! ! !

The nice thing about a gun is that it is hot in a few seconds, and cooled back down in a minute or so. Less time to wait for it to heat up, and less time before it cant burn you anymore.

Both have their own set of advantages and disadvantages, it is up to YOU to pick the one that best suits the job at hand. I have both (and a torch as well) I will usually reach for the gun first!!
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« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2011, 10:14:40 PM »

Yep. Melt the solder not the piece.

And use flux.
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