Meter Backlighting

[sndtubes]

Here's an odd question.  I think it would be neat to add backlighting to the meters in my 32V-2.  Has anyone ever attempted this?  Would the meter guts from the 32V2 fit into a simpson meter case with backlighting or are they different sized?  I don't want to attempt this if some one else has already tried.  Yeah, Yeah, I know it's kind of stupid, but hey, I'd still like to have them lighted if I can.

[KL7OF]

There are meter lights available for lighting aircraft panel instruments that mount externally on the face of the instrument like an "eyebrow"......Look at CHIEF aircraft parts or" aircraft spruce"  They are 12 volt but you might find some 6 volt bulbs that would fit  and you could use filament voltage.....does the 32v have any 12 volt tubes?

[kg8lb]

The aircraft flange base bulbs come in 6, 14 and the  often seen military/commercial 28 volt version. The number 328 is a 6 volt bulb also used in the Collins 75-A1 and 32-V.
www.superbrightleds.com has a 6.3 volt LED line the is a direct replacement for bulbs like the #47. The LED are available in white green amber and blue. In fact there are Ebay scalpers selling the blue LEDs for upwards of $10 for use in Drake radios. The cost at superbright is only about $2.
  The cool running makes these LEDS a natural for many heat sensitive applications like the Elmac dial where heat destroys the plastic dial cover.

Look for the #47 ,6.3 volt under "BA9s" here:http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2FBA9S6_specs.htmThere are also LED rteplacements for the flange base aircraft type bulbs.

 BTW, the light output is quite good and the are 180 degree output with the same directional characteristics as the #47.

[Pete, WA2CWA]

Here's an odd question.  I think it would be neat to add backlighting to the meters in my 32V-2.  Has anyone ever attempted this?  Would the meter guts from the 32V2 fit into a simpson meter case with backlighting or are they different sized?  I don't want to attempt this if some one else has already tried.  Yeah, Yeah, I know it's kind of stupid, but hey, I'd still like to have them lighted if I can.

I don't own a 32V2, but from the pictures I've seen, it looks like the meter markings are printed on a solid metal plate. How do you plan to pass light through a solid plate? I've created lighted meters by mounting small grain-of-wheat lights internally at the bottom of the meter movement and carefully passing the wires under the meter plate and out a small hole drilled in the back. You could also try mounting a small tubular-type lamp with wire leads protruding from the ends at the top of the meter, or you can drill a small hole in the upper left and right of the meter case and mount two small grain-of-wheat lamps there. A dab of super glue can hold them in place.

[Todd, KA1KAQ]

I don't own a 32V2, but from the pictures I've seen, it looks like the meter markings are printed on a solid metal plate. How do you plan to pass light through a solid plate?

It does seem odd Pete, but Collins did this later with the KWM-2 and S-Line gear by adding a hole for a socket in back and painting the inside of the case flat white. Doesn't work as well as having a translucent dial, but it does help.

Fortunately the 32V series uses the same small Simpson meter bezels already mentioned by the original poster, albeit of a slightly different appearance. The 32V meters have an embossed Art Deco pattern along the bottom while the later versions are smooth. You should be able to swap the meter case directly if you don't mind having unoriginal bezels in the 32V. Simply remove the meter from its case by removing the three small brass screws, then swap the meter movements by removing the large brass nuts on the back.

Another way that "should" work would be to use the existing 32V bezels with the back plates from the newer style meters with the bulb holes. Paint the inside of the original bezel flat white, reassemble, add bulb fixtures, tap into an appropriate 6v line, and away you go.

I say 'should' because I've planned to try the same thing with my 32V-2 for many years, but it's a ways down the list. Provided all of the rear mounting screws line up with the newer back plate and the meter movement allows insertion of a bulb (less than 1/4 inch), it should just be a matter of disassembly, painting, and reassembly. Far more tedious than complicated.

It would also be a good idea to clean and check the meter glass and its retainer ring while you're in there, if you're not already removing them to paint the bezel.

[sndtubes]

I don't own a 32V2, but from the pictures I've seen, it looks like the meter markings are printed on a solid metal plate. How do you plan to pass light through a solid plate?

It does seem odd Pete, but Collins did this later with the KWM-2 and S-Line gear by adding a hole for a socket in back and painting the inside of the case flat white. Doesn't work as well as having a translucent dial, but it does help.

Fortunately the 32V series uses the same small Simpson meter bezels already mentioned by the original poster, albeit of a slightly different appearance. The 32V meters have an embossed Art Deco pattern along the bottom while the later versions are smooth. You should be able to swap the meter case directly if you don't mind having unoriginal bezels in the 32V. Simply remove the meter from its case by removing the three small brass screws, then swap the meter movements by removing the large brass nuts on the back.

Another way that "should" work would be to use the existing 32V bezels with the back plates from the newer style meters with the bulb holes. Paint the inside of the original bezel flat white, reassemble, add bulb fixtures, tap into an appropriate 6v line, and away you go.


 

I say 'should' because I've planned to try the same thing with my 32V-2 for many years, but it's a ways down the list. Provided all of the rear mounting screws line up with the newer back plate and the meter movement allows insertion of a bulb (less than 1/4 inch), it should just be a matter of disassembly, painting, and reassembly. Far more tedious than complicated.

It would also be a good idea to clean and check the meter glass and its retainer ring while you're in there, if you're not already removing them to paint the bezel.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.  Yeah, I'm thinkin' exactly what Todd is thinkin'.  I'm gonna attempt it when I open the V2 up to do a little upgrading like changing the light bulbs in the bandscales and I'm going to attach a muffin fan on back to help keep the dreaded LV transformer cooler.  When I'm in it, I'm going to try to change the meter guts....maybe.  Like Todd, it isn't real high on the list but I'd like to try it someday.  I just wanted to know if anyone else had attempted it with success or failure.  I figured if they failed, I wouldn't waste my time.

[WBear2GCR]

I can do it on a stock meter.

Ok, I haven't done it, but I know it ought to work ok, fine in theory.

They make LEDs on a chip now that are incredibly small.

adhesive backed copper foil, some glue (crazy glue?) and a little solder
and you could mount LEDs of any color you pick (or two colors, like white for daytime and red for night running) inside, along the circumference of the case, just back of the glass...

...you'd have to bring the foil out back or out the side of the case to the rear... but that's do-able any number of ways... like a rivet that you solder to?

alternately you could make a thin bracket that sits exactly in the same location but comes along with the meter and face... same idea, but the connections can come out the back "normally".


whaddya think?

                 _-_-bear

[kg8lb]

Yep, The chip LEDS are very versatile and pretty easy to work with. They come in a good range of colors as well. If you are looking for the buzzardly vintage look , the warm white to amber range works well. Most of the tape LED sets are 12 or 24 VDC series/parallel strings that are mounted on flexible strips with a proper chip resistor. Most tape LEDS must be used in groups of 3 at about 50 mm segments.
 Rim lighting works well however there are graphics companies that are able to duplicate your meter face on a transluscent stock that will allow for true back lighting. The back lighting effect may be restricted by the mechancal layout of the meter movement.

 Elmac with #47 type LED replacements. No heat induced warping.

[KC4ALF]

I wonder how the LED's woul'd work on the TCS set?