The 6M-160M HPSDR Transceiver Project Begins

[flintstone mop]

Yeah Fred, you be SDR-Man already. Anythang is possible!   

(How about voice recognition software labeling who's talking where?)

Tom, It's another can of digital worms. Analog is so easy to get along with.

About 64-bits. I wouldn't worry. My wife HAD a very nice fast as sczhit ACER laptop with Win 7 Premium 64-bit ($400 Wally world) and it was nice. I tried to load older software into it and it would not load coz it was 32-bit. She didn't like the color so we sold it on eBay. She likes her pink notebook, little screen, slow Toshiba................womens
The 'Puter had a compatibility button to emulate 32-bit,  I don't think you will get in a bind for 64-bit in our SDR whirl. Maybe some of the other digital types hiding  around here will comment.

Fred

[WB2EMS]

The 'Puter had a compatibility button to emulate 32-bit,  I don't think you will get in a bind for 64-bit in our SDR whirl. Maybe some of the other digital types hiding  around here will comment.

I'm no expert, just starting to dabble in windoze 7 (after being bitten by DOS4 and Millenium, I always wait a year or three for a new Microsoft OS to prove out before adopting it), but from my reading, the 'Pro' versions that have the windows XP compatibility mode really don't do what you want. Apparently they launch a virtual OS window, and your hardware has to support virtualization, and it ends up not being terribly compatible anyway. Here's one article I read that talked about it. http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/1051975/xp-mode-windows-scam


I am just setting up a new shack computer, a Shuttle XS35 and I had the choice of installing Windows 7 32 or 64 bit and I chose 32 bit after doing some research because I wanted maximum compatibility with existing ham software. For specific needs, like PowerSDR, it might  make sense to install the 64 bit version, but from what I can tell, that will cause issues with some of the popular ham software that is in common use (for instances, UIView32, where the author went SK).

YMMV, probably will.    I'd like to learn more about the whole issue.

[WA1GFZ]

Tom, I'm running a dual, dual core so 4 processors. You should be fine though. Sorry I just don't remember the ozy download to allow firmware updates. That was at least two years ago. Maybe you do need the usb cable connected??? I seem to remember it was pretty easy. I think the code is stored in the ozy prom. The ozy prom loads firmware into the FPGA on power up. Make sure the jumpers are right on ozy. You may need to do something with the JTAG.

[K1JJ]

OK on the 32 bits guys. Guess I'm all set and have a reasonable machine.

Frank, I found a USB cable here, so gonna start mounting jacks on the cabinet and maybe fire up OZY later today.

T

[WA1GFZ]

good luck!
I hope you have some BNC cables and amplified computer speakers kicking around.

[K1JJ]

Tonight I wired most of the inside infrastructure.  This is the homebrew part of the construction phase. I installed the PTT, 13V IN, T/R antenna relays, LED ON, power switch, fuse and lots of 1/4" RCA jacks for future expansion.  I also cobbed on real man's SO-239 antenna connectors instead of those homo BNC's.

I figgered it would be best to do all this drilling and wiring before I added any boards...  

Maybe tmw I'll try sticking in Ozy, the communications interface board to the computer. If that works, then the Mercury RX is next followed by Penny, the exciter.  Still need to make some connections to the boards themselves, of course.

** I'm trying to show lots of detail in this project's construction for those interested in doing it themselves. I hope this is inspiring someone else to give it a try too. Misery likes company, you know.

T

Notice on pic #1 where the 12V red power lead clips on. I added a series diode there to be sure I NEVER reverse polarity. It wud be a crime to see the rig go up in smoke by a space-out.

Oh oh oh. Come  here Dick. See the pretty LED light. Oh oh oh. Jane likes the pretty light.

[WA1GFZ]

DANGER TOM I don't think you can drive a T/R relay directly from HPSDR.
IXDD414 may work with maybe a pull up resistor on the input. Look at the current rating of the output open collector drivers. Also remember to put a diode across the coil to absorb transient at turn off. I plan to build a small board with opto couplers and high current drivers to control T/R and output relay selection when i build my power amplifier enclosure. I don't want high power RF in with the HPSDR boards.

[K1JJ]

OK, Frank -

Well, the relay control-out rating spec said 60V at 100ma, open collector, IIRC. The relay is not installed yet. I'll have to look it up. I was going to drive a tiny  12V relay with it and then interface that with the outside world with bigger relays.    Open colector means I can have 12V on the relay and the collector will sink it to ground, right?   I will use the diode across the relay coil, of course.

I also want to use an isolation relay to key the PTT input to Penny too, so I will never make interfacing mistakes.

BTW, the docs say the PTT lock problem was corrected, but I will load new firmware anyway before I proceed, to be sure.

T

[WA1GFZ]

Very good Tom, that will work.
PTT problem was fixed in the first firmware upgrade to Penny I think. It could have been in power SDR, don't remember now. If you plug it in and it comes up in TX that is the issue. I think it comes up in TX but at zero output so you lose just RX. Sounds like you are getting very close. 

[K1JJ]

http://openhpsdr.org/wiki/images/4/4c/Penelope_manual_v_1-2.pdf
(1/2 way down page is open collector keying info)


No problem with Penny output keying inductive loads.  

Pin 13 of the 25 pin Penny output connector is for keying amplifiers. Rated at 100ma / 60V.   I will use a 12V tiny buffer  relay there just to be sure.   Already has the reverse diode installed according to manual.

Also, Pin 1 is the PTT input - just needs a closure.    

Optical buffering looks to be overkill, no?


* Actually I thought the PTT problem  WAS in PowerSDR and it required a statement in bootup to work around, but corrected for at least a year now. At least that's what I see in the threads. The site has a lot of dead info that takes a while to get updated. But that's how it is when run by engrs who are more concerned with board performance. There's no marketing or bean counters to pay .... :-)

T

[WA1GFZ]

Tom,
Don't rely on the board diodes for protection. At the relay is the best option.
If you rely on the board diode the coil transient is absorbed by the Penny VCC buss and internal bypoass caps. This means every time you release a relay the Penny VCC buss will transient upwards to absorb the pulse to protect the driver chip. Best to keep the transient current loop closer to the relay.
Penny 1.2 manual is the latest release so it should have the accurate poop on the stuck T/R and firmware configuration.

[K1JJ]

OK. Will add diodes to all the relays. Can never be TOO safe... :-)

MORE snow today.

T

[WA1GFZ]

Yup and you are about an hour away from watching snow static on HPSDR spectrum display. Fire up Mercury and play with it as you wire Penny interfaces.

[WD8BIL]

I added a series diode there to be sure I NEVER reverse polarity. It wud be a crime to see the rig go up in smoke by a space-out.

Tom,
I don't know how much DC current you're talking here but, a quick and simple polarity guard is a bridge rectifier on the input.
Connect your load to the DC output leads of the bridge as usual and put your DC power into the AC input of the bridge.
Either way you connect it the bridge steers the polarity to where it outta be.
After all, that's what happens with AC.

[WA1GFZ]

Series diode is more than enough in this application. That is a reason I built the supply inside.

[WD8BIL]

I'm sure it is, Frank, but in the event of a mistake you hafta re-connect.
With the bridge it'll work every time! 

[K1JJ]

The bridge sounds like a cool way to go, especially if it was mobile with a lot of plugging.

Question:  I see there is a left and right channel audio AND line output for each receiver.  Since the receiver is mono, why stereo/ two outputs?

The reason I axe is I ultimately want to have two receivers in diversity  - one receiver in each ear.  Is each L/R  channel the same signal?   Not sure if I need to have a stereo output plug for each RX or not.  In other words, I want to have a mono from each receiver to go into stereo headphones.

T

[WA1GFZ]

I don't remember because I just used stereo speakers. I'll figure it out when i add the power amp and klh speaker. Or you will find out and tell me.
Turn the thing on and go for it.

[WD8BIL]

Ya, fire that motha up!!

(opps, don't say fire!)

[WA1GFZ]

uncap the headers and roll her up

[K1JJ]

Not so fast...

I decided to go ahead complete the wiring for the unit and the station interfacing before I fire anything up.  As far as I can tell, everything is now wired and ready to plug into the station.  With just two switch turns I can go from the FT-1000D to the HPSDR.

Added a buffer keying relay going to the exciter and a buffer relay from the exciter that goes to the bigger relays in the station. So, there is good isolation for the board.  

Also added stereo 1/4 jacks for the line outputs and headphones for two receivers. Also labeled everything.  Actually I'm trying to postpone the inevitable...   maybe tmw.


* Just to be clear, all of the external wiring, connectors and switches, etc, are not part of the kit and need to be homebrewed.  Just the boards are supplied with the kit.

T

Notice in pic #3 the station interface - it's begging to be plugged in!

[WA1GFZ]

Tom,
The HPSDR board connectors stick out the back. It looks like your cables are a bit short. You could rotate Alex 180 degrees if the mounting holes line up and keep everything internal to the box. I considered flipping it around but the +/- 12 volt Lamda power supply module was too big anl only left 1/2 inch behind the boards.
Remember Tom that LPU is a bit skroteless so keep an eye on the heat. Run all the relays off 13.8 not 12 volts from the regulator.
BTW Bud a reverse diode across 12 volts would kill the fuse and not add a 1 volt drop if a bridge was used. The 12 volt regulator may have problems if the 13.8 is low.

[K1JJ]

Yes, it looks like the Atlas board is mounted 180 degrees backwards. That's what I get for not plugging in the boards yet. No problem - I'll spin it around and re-route the cables. There's enuff cable length.

I do have the relays off the incoming 13.8 V.

BTW, I need to PROVE that the Atlas board sockets are oriented properly before I plug any boards in. It is not clear which end of the socket is #1 pin.  Could you tell me a way to positively tell if I have them soldered in right?  Like maybe, " looking from the back of the cabinet with the Ozy plugged in, the 3rd pin on the right side is 12V - or something like that?   I will have the board socket 180 degree corrected.

T

[WA1GFZ]

You mean you didn't try one board before you soldered all those connections?
Looking at the back of the chassis with the power connector on the left (just like the picture you sent yesterday)  the board connectors should face out the back hole.. Man you live on the edge. I soldered 2 pins on one connector and tried a board to be sure. if you got it backwards throw atlas in the trash and start again. The boards only plug in one way and if you get it backwards and power up the boards throw everything in the trash.
Looking at the back of my chassis with the connectors facing out the power connector is on the left side.

[K1JJ]

That's almost funny.  Looks like I'm screwed...

I checked and see that the Atlas board can be mounted only ONE way in the chassis. Spin it 180 and it will not line up. I first thought the Atlas board could be  mounted anywhere we chose to, so the board sockets facing out the back didn't mean anything to me.  Some guys don't even use a Pandora cabinet, so how would they know this?

When I initially checked the female sockets to the board print pattern, it was clear the way the sockets went in. Even the description said to mount them in line with the indent. Anyway, that turns out to be 180 backwards.  Yep, looks like I will have to order a new Atlas board. At least they have them in stock.

Strange, but I was fully aware of this potential problem and rechecked it many times using the manual's method above....sigh.

So, a board HAS to be plugged in to see the proper socket orientation.. that's kinda JS.

T